There Will Be A 20th Century Proof Only Set! What Should I Do?
Typetone
Posts: 1,621 ✭✭
Contrary to my earlier understanding, there will be a 20th century proof only type set. However, according to BJ it will be a basic only set for now. There won't initially be a with varieties set.
So, now I am in a quandry.
I am definately entering the 20th century with varieties proof and cs set. I also bought a bunch of lower price post 50s cs stuff to enter the 20th century cs only set. I did this because I figured I would probably buy all the early Lincolns, Buffalos, Barbers, Morgans, etc in CS. So I might as well enter the CS only as well.
Now, with a proof only option (with no gold) I could do the proof only set and use those proofs for the combined set. This would require a proof Morgan, a 1913 Type 2 proof Buffalo, a Matte proof Buffalo, a matte proof Lincoln and a proof Indian, as well as the proof Barbers. An interesting, beautiful, but formidable group. Of course I would still need the SLQs and high relief Peace in CS for the combined set.
I could do both of course. The biggest incremental costs would be buying the Barbers and Indian in CS and proof in the high grades I want. I would also have to dup the Buffalos and Lincolns, but the cs versions are not that expensive in MS66. Realistically I probably can't do both, at least this year. So, what to do? Its hard to decide.
What are some of you other guys like Carl, Dennis, MTH, Bill Walser et all thinking? Keith D., I know you are going to focus on CS.
Greg S
So, now I am in a quandry.
I am definately entering the 20th century with varieties proof and cs set. I also bought a bunch of lower price post 50s cs stuff to enter the 20th century cs only set. I did this because I figured I would probably buy all the early Lincolns, Buffalos, Barbers, Morgans, etc in CS. So I might as well enter the CS only as well.
Now, with a proof only option (with no gold) I could do the proof only set and use those proofs for the combined set. This would require a proof Morgan, a 1913 Type 2 proof Buffalo, a Matte proof Buffalo, a matte proof Lincoln and a proof Indian, as well as the proof Barbers. An interesting, beautiful, but formidable group. Of course I would still need the SLQs and high relief Peace in CS for the combined set.
I could do both of course. The biggest incremental costs would be buying the Barbers and Indian in CS and proof in the high grades I want. I would also have to dup the Buffalos and Lincolns, but the cs versions are not that expensive in MS66. Realistically I probably can't do both, at least this year. So, what to do? Its hard to decide.
What are some of you other guys like Carl, Dennis, MTH, Bill Walser et all thinking? Keith D., I know you are going to focus on CS.
Greg S
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Comments
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My Other Hobby
SLQs are beautiful coins and are not available in proof. So I found some I liked and bought those. The steel cent is similiar. I will keep them even though they won't be in the proof type set.
Keith points out that high grade CS Barbers can be more expensive than proofs. I suggest anyone going this route quickly buy Cameos if they find any as they may be rarer then currently thought. At least I felt I was getting a bargain paying a %15 premium to buy the first Cameo 1907 Barber half. If you aren't playing this game and have a cameo 20'th century Liberty Nickel for sale please tell me about it as I am looking for one.
I did fill several slots in the mixed set with circulating strike coins as they were much cheaper than proofs and I wanted to finish before buying them in proof. These are the T1 Buffalo, Mercury dime, Morgan dollar and early Lincolns. I already bought the Walker in proof as some of these looked so good to me.
Did you mean T1 matte proof Buff Greg? I would hope there are only 2 Buffs for now, the T1 matte and any T2 Brilliant.
The list I got shows 3 proof Buffalos. A 1913 type 1 matte, a type 2 matte 1913 - 1916, and a brilliant 1936 - 1937. I'll ask BJ to repost the list in news.
Greg
A good strategy might be to mine shows and find these coins that you can get the CA/DC designation on later. I think that there would be a lot of value in that right now. Especially once the upgrade pool stabilizes. I think that right now, dealers are not putting as much premium (some series) on the designations because they assume there are a lot more out there.
Keith
These populations are small though the mint was trying for the cameo effect. There were less than 800 proofs each issue each year. At the last show I was fortunate enough to attend I saw several brilliant proof Barbers and the only cameo Barbers I saw were the 18xx dates, not that I saw everything.
Next weekend is the TNA show, and I believe that there are supposed to be a sizable number of tables. Since I don't have much cash, I'll try to just spend the day learning. I'll look for some early 20th Century proofs, and try to get a feel for what the dealers are asking for them, and whether they could CAM or DCAM. If I find anything really nice, I'll get a card for anyone interested.
Keith
It's generally felt that the cameos started to die out after 1900. I agree with Carl, 18xx CAMs are out there, but 19xx CAMs are really tough.
Greg
Rick T has an awesome 1904 PF67CAM Liberty Nickel (it is NGC, but is still a CAM in a PCGS holder).
The 1909 is the most common Liberty Nickel in CAM/DCAM right now. There have only been a total of 4 1907's graded as CAM (PCGS/NGC combined). I do believe more are probably out there. I have already had an 1883NC PR65 re-graded as a DCAM.
There is a 1911CAM on Ebay right now (PCGS PR66).
Super congrats on that No Cents Deep Cameo!! That must be your icon coin, if I had to guess
<< <i>You need a bigger 100 x 100 icon for sure. >>
I need a better scanner. The image that my icon is made from is with a scratched up holder (that is was in when I bought it). It doesn't look as good large. My scanner makes the coin look terrible, so until I can get a decent image of it, I will leave it little icon.
Also: Rick Snow has a 1900 PR65CAM Liberty Nickel on his site. Is this within this set (forgot what the start-finish dates are).
Carl,
I'll keep an eye out for all denominations cause now I'm curious, and I can't afford much right now anyway.
Keith
Keith
Let me help solve your quandry...Sell me your funny hair Kennedy since you won't need it for the 20th century proof set.
BTW - have you checked the Franklin registry lately? Somebody just knocked us both down a peg. Entered at #4 all-time.
Maybe if I postponed the wedding for a few months......or years......
Unfortunately one needs the funny hair Kennedy for the combined 20th century set which I am playing in.
I see I'm dropping in proof Franklins. Would need three upgrades to get back into the top five. That's doable, but I'd rather put my firepower elsewhere now. And there's some great sets down the list just waiting for one or two more pieces.
To All:
Seeing the composition, I decided to go the CS route on most of the pre 1950 pieces to compete in the combined and CS catagories. May come back to proof only later.
Greg
<< <i>I decided to go the CS route on most of the pre 1950 pieces to compete in the combined and CS catagories >>
grumble grumble, more competition, grumble, grumble
Keith
Competition is the mother's milk of America. I'd like to believe that my entry will make your set even better.
Greg
Keith