When buying 90% silver????
bosco5041
Posts: 1,303 ✭
Is there a premeum on Walkers and Mercuries in say fine condition? If not, how long do you think it will be before that happens. To put this question another way, would you rather buy walkers and Mercs in fine condition, or Franklins in VF or Washingtons, rosies, and Kennedys in EF-AU? For me I guess I have a little collector in me even buying 90% and I prefer the Walkers and Mercs as long as they are Fine or better.
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Ray
You can also find au mercury dimes along with 1916,1916-s,1917-d,1919-d,1919-s,1923-s,1924-d,1924-s,1925-d,1925-s,1926-d,1926-s,1927-d,1927-s,1928-d,1929-d,1930-s,1931-d,1931-s,and don't forget the 1942/1 and 1942/1-d overdates as I have found eight 42/1-d and one 1942/1 dimes, also I have found two 1921 and two 1921-d dimes making mercury dimes a series where you can still cherrypick coins out of junk bins.
<< <i>Even though I would advise you to put at least 50% of your silver funds into .999 if you really want to purchase 90% there usually are some xf-au common date walkers thrown into the junk bin along with better date coins from 1919, sometimes a low grade 1921-s, 1923-s, 1927-s, 1928-s, 1929-d, 1929-s, 1933-s, you might luck out and find a 1938-d and look for the 1942 ddr along with the 1946 ddr. I have found a dozen 1946 ddr halves so they are out there.
You can also find au mercury dimes along with 1916,1916-s,1917-d,1919-d,1919-s,1923-s,1924-d,1924-s,1925-d,1925-s,1926-d,1926-s,1927-d,1927-s,1928-d,1929-d,1930-s,1931-d,1931-s,and don't forget the 1942/1 and 1942/1-d overdates as I have found eight 42/1-d and one 1942/1 dimes, also I have found two 1921 and two 1921-d dimes making mercury dimes a series where you can still cherrypick coins out of junk bins. >>
Yukon, I am curious as to why I should put at least 50% in .999 I kind of feel more comfortable with 90% although I do buy ASE's now and then. I can gennerally buy 90% for melt or right at it and the ASE's have a $2to $4 premeum. I don't really like buying private minted .999 and sometimes the 10oz. on up needs assayed. The 90% in made by the U.S. gov. and there is not a counterfeit problem as of yet with them that I know of.Just my thoughts.
I do not look through junk bins but from what you say maybe I should start. I did not know you could find some of them dates.
<< <i>With the premium in 90% right now I was able to trade in $100 Face and get more pure for my money. Theres long waits right now for bags of 90% 2-3 weeks from what Ive seen. Local dealers out of 10 ounce bars, first time he said hes ever ran out. >>
I've recently done what Jinx has trading in merc dime, barber dimes, barber quarters, barber halves, walkers for 10 oz. bars in plastic holders from a well known refiner via the same dealer. The premiums on 90% are so high now that this is the time to do the swap, I've only done this one other time and it worked like a charm as usually 90% trades at a steep discount compared to .999. I actually gained quite a bit of ounces on this transaction as many of the coins were worn down and have lost a fair amount of silver content. You also have to consider when silver does have a parobolic blowoff that the premiums on 90% will go down considerably as bags of it will be sitting at refiners waiting conversion into .999 silver plus they will be weighing the silver and the older stuff will have less value because of the wear factor.
<< <i>
<< <i>Even though I would advise you to put at least 50% of your silver funds into .999 if you really want to purchase 90% there usually are some xf-au common date walkers thrown into the junk bin along with better date coins from 1919, sometimes a low grade 1921-s, 1923-s, 1927-s, 1928-s, 1929-d, 1929-s, 1933-s, you might luck out and find a 1938-d and look for the 1942 ddr along with the 1946 ddr. I have found a dozen 1946 ddr halves so they are out there.
You can also find au mercury dimes along with 1916,1916-s,1917-d,1919-d,1919-s,1923-s,1924-d,1924-s,1925-d,1925-s,1926-d,1926-s,1927-d,1927-s,1928-d,1929-d,1930-s,1931-d,1931-s,and don't forget the 1942/1 and 1942/1-d overdates as I have found eight 42/1-d and one 1942/1 dimes, also I have found two 1921 and two 1921-d dimes making mercury dimes a series where you can still cherrypick coins out of junk bins. >>
Yukon, I am curious as to why I should put at least 50% in .999 I kind of feel more comfortable with 90% although I do buy ASE's now and then. I can gennerally buy 90% for melt or right at it and the ASE's have a $2to $4 premeum. I don't really like buying private minted .999 and sometimes the 10oz. on up needs assayed. The 90% in made by the U.S. gov. and there is not a counterfeit problem as of yet with them that I know of.Just my thoughts.
I do not look through junk bins but from what you say maybe I should start. I did not know you could find some of them dates. >>
I have always liked 90% because of what you stated in your reply, counterfeit's from China are not likely on junk dimes, quarters and so far halves. I simply had to much 90% and am now down to $1,000 face and wanted to increase my holdings of .999 in smaller size, the 10 oz. bars were 60 cents an oz. cheaper than the generic 1 oz. rounds so I went with them plus the 10 oz. bars have the refiners name stamped on them and are sealed in plastic in sheets of 10. I will always like to look through 90% as I love the thrill of the hunt but as I age it is getting more difficult for me to look through dimes so I have gravitated towards looking through halves and silver dollars. You make the decision that in your mind you feel is right and rest easy knowing you have a stash of PM's ready to protect your purchasing power when the time comes for it to be deployed.
Forgot to add if you are able to purchase 90% at melt than you are in an enviable position, I would still look towards au-unc Franklins, BU 1964 kennedy halves, XF+ Walkers and perhaps some mercs but try and get then as close to XF as possible.