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GAI Authenticators Graded Cards

MailboxBaseballMailboxBaseball Posts: 46
in Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum
Hope you are all doing well, just a quick question. Any opinions or experience you can share would be great and appreciated.

We all know about GAI Authenticators shady autograph issues from the past (many many articles online about their unreliable authenticating).


But my question is: Can GAI graded CARDS (un-autographed cards) be relied upon? as in, would you buy one? I am specifically speaking about vintage stuff, like Pre-WWII.

Do you think a GAI Graded T206 card would be reliable as authentic? If i bought one, i would probably send it to PSA as soon as I got it, but what are your thoughts?

Are T206 cards easy to counterfeit?

Thanks for your thoughts image

MB


Comments

  • calgarycollectorcalgarycollector Posts: 356
    You can't get a definitive answer on this, some will have gotten lucky others not. It would depend on when it was graded by GAI as well.

    My approach with the non PSA/BGS graders. Spend only what you are prepared to lose and if it works out great but know your taking a big risk.
  • OcTrAdInGOcTrAdInG Posts: 176 ✭✭
    My experience with GAI-graded cards is limited to a single purchase of a card, along with subsequent crossovers (for a HOF player's card, not too expensive and limited population). The end result was not horrific, although I'm sure you could see and hear some horror stories if you keep your eyes and ears open.

    Upon receiving the GAI card in the mail, I promptly submitted the card to SGC for fair, unbiased grading. GAI 8.5 not too surprisingly became SGC 88. At that point, I just had to know, and I submitted the SGC-holdered card to PSA for crossover. Again, not surprisingly, card came back PSA 8. Read into it as much as you like, but let me tell you the card is a real blazer that, in my opinion, is worthy of the 8.5 original GAI grade. Being that I paid PSA 8 money for the card, I am quite content knowing that I own a card with hardly recognizable surface flaws (overlooked by GAI, not SGC and PSA) and near-perfect corners and centering. That card holds a special place in my collection.

    Would I buy another one? It really depends on the card. I would do my best to identify EOT (or any other alterations) and be very, very conservative when assigning my own grade to the card.

    Hope that helps.
  • MailboxBaseballMailboxBaseball Posts: 46


    << <i>You can't get a definitive answer on this, some will have gotten lucky others not. It would depend on when it was graded by GAI as well.

    My approach with the non PSA/BGS graders. Spend only what you are prepared to lose and if it works out great but know your taking a big risk. >>



    Yes I agree with you, thanks again for the reply to the thread. I think PSA is the way to go for cards (non-auto's) -- they seem to be the most consistent.
  • MailboxBaseballMailboxBaseball Posts: 46


    << <i>My experience with GAI-graded cards is limited to a single purchase of a card, along with subsequent crossovers (for a HOF player's card, not too expensive and limited population). The end result was not horrific, although I'm sure you could see and hear some horror stories if you keep your eyes and ears open.

    Upon receiving the GAI card in the mail, I promptly submitted the card to SGC for fair, unbiased grading. GAI 8.5 not too surprisingly became SGC 88. At that point, I just had to know, and I submitted the SGC-holdered card to PSA for crossover. Again, not surprisingly, card came back PSA 8. Read into it as much as you like, but let me tell you the card is a real blazer that, in my opinion, is worthy of the 8.5 original GAI grade. Being that I paid PSA 8 money for the card, I am quite content knowing that I own a card with hardly recognizable surface flaws (overlooked by GAI, not SGC and PSA) and near-perfect corners and centering. That card holds a special place in my collection.

    Would I buy another one? It really depends on the card. I would do my best to identify EOT (or any other alterations) and be very, very conservative when assigning my own grade to the card.

    Hope that helps. >>



    Thank you very much for the insight man, sounds like you have had your share of experiences with the 3 companies. it guess with cards, for the most part, GAI will get the "authentication" part correct, but can miss other issues, like the surface flaws you decribes...the thing that concerns me is if they possibly miss some minor trimming or color-alterations, or even stains, miscuts or other "qualifiers....then next thing you know your GAI 4 could become a PSA 3(MK) or the dreaded "Altered"---thanks for chiming in brother!
  • msassinmsassin Posts: 1,564 ✭✭✭
    I will not hesitate to buy older label mid/low grade pre-war GAI cards (however high end are usually overgraded). I stay away from the newer label GAI.


  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    you have to ask yourself why is it still in a GAI holder? They certainly sell for considerably less than anything in PSA or SGC's holders.
    There are legit answers to this, but if it came from an auction house or dealer that sells PSA or SGC graded cards you've got your answer right there- run.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • pclpadspclpads Posts: 457 ✭✭
    It's a real crapshoot. Sometimes the candy, sometimes the wrapper. I once won a low # low pop, '52T b/b in an old GAI slab, graded 8.5. Sent to SGC to x-over. Came back as trimmed. I cracked it and sent it to PSA raw. To my great and happy surprise, it got an "8." The lesson I learned from that episode is now my belief there is a reflexive negative bias mongst TPGers when reviewing another TPG's slab for x-over. Always bust 'em out! X-over subs for review are a fool's bet.
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