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Does anyone build sets in poor condition?

I have a ton of cards from various sets that are in really poor condition. What do you guys do with these cards? Is there even a market for them?

The sad part is that these are from sets that are/were somewhat desirable.
I'm building a 1968 and a 1970 Topps set. I have lots of 1970s and 1960s to offer in trade.

Comments

  • BunchOBullBunchOBull Posts: 6,188 ✭✭✭
    I'm building a '56 Topps Baseball set that ranges from poor to very-good. I don't mind creases as long as the image isn't negatively effective. Rounded corners are like cardboard love.
    Collector of most things Frank Thomas. www.BigHurtHOF.com
  • vladguerrerovladguerrero Posts: 4,077 ✭✭✭
    I did a 1954 Topps beater set... Sold it for twice what it cost to put it together.
  • TNP777TNP777 Posts: 5,710 ✭✭✭
    My entire vintage collection is P/F/G. Lots of collectors prefer their cards in well-loved condition.
  • vladguerrerovladguerrero Posts: 4,077 ✭✭✭


    << <i>My entire vintage collection is P/F/G. Lots of collectors prefer their cards in well-loved condition. >>




    Well-loved = authentic, not worrying about being altered, not expensive, collecting the way cards were intended.
  • TNP777TNP777 Posts: 5,710 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>My entire vintage collection is P/F/G. Lots of collectors prefer their cards in well-loved condition. >>

    Well-loved = authentic, not worrying about being altered, not expensive, collecting the way cards were intended. >>

    image


  • << <i>Well-loved = authentic, not worrying about being altered, not expensive, collecting the way cards were intended. >>



    Well said!
    I'm building a 1968 and a 1970 Topps set. I have lots of 1970s and 1960s to offer in trade.
  • frankhardyfrankhardy Posts: 8,139 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have Topps sets from 2012 down to 1972. My 1972 Topps set probably averages EX but has some low grade in it. My intentions were to build a low grade one, but I was able to build a mid grade fairly inexpensively. My 1974 Topps set has several low grade in it too. I need to upgrade some of those because it can be done cheaply. As I go further back in time with my Topps sets, they will become lower and lower grade. Next on my list is 1971 Topps which will have some beaters in it, I'm sure.

    I said all of that to say - my goal is completion and not condition. I don't mind low grade cards at all. It is a fun and inexpensive way to build vintage sets.

    Shane

  • Indy78Indy78 Posts: 806 ✭✭✭
    I agree that there is absolutely a market for them. I've built my one and only higher grade registry set (75 Minis), and don't plan on ever building another one again. Although I enjoyed the experience immensely, I'm frankly tired of pulling my hair out over looking for the slightest of imperfections and waiting for those rare 8's to show up. Although I will continue to keep my eyes open at card shows for raw upgrades to submit for my set, I've recently shifted back to my roots of collecting primarily raw sets. Currently, I'm working on a raw 5-7 range '74 T baseball set, a 4-6 1971 T baseball set, and a 6-7 raw Mini set (22 cards to go on that one). Although these aren't exactly poor condition, they are in the spirit of the OP's thread in that they're raw, inexpensive, and come worry free as far as corner wear, surface issues, extreme centering, surface bubbles, wrinkles, crimps, dimples, and all that other stuff I'm tired of fretting over.
  • ExodusExodus Posts: 348 ✭✭✭
    I do not collect anything in less then Nr-MT condition.
    I like to look at a card as if it just came out of a pack.
  • mcadamsmcadams Posts: 2,618 ✭✭✭
    There is a good thread at Net54 discussing how low to mid grade T206 pricing has gotten stronger, while higher grade (non-rare backs) have softened a bit. I think in some sets, people like a realistic affordable goal and there are buyers for pretty much any condition for the more popular sets.
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    Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭
    doesn't take much effort.

    if you buy enough stuff and accumulate, the low grade sets typically build themselves.

    they look no different sitting in a box.

    and someday an unexpected mitigating circumstance may cause them to become interesting again.

  • 76collector76collector Posts: 986 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Agree with the posts above, I think there is definitely a market for the lower grade stuff, especially pre 1970. I'm building a 54 and 63 set and buy lots of cards for each as money is available, and just continue to accumulate, then sell off the worse shape doubles, to help buy more of what I need. Most of us don't have the resources to build high end sets from those years. It gives me more enjoyment to have the cards even if they are in poor condition, and then upgrade, rather than save for those high end cards. Since the supply of 70's to modern is much better, especially 80's, I'm not sure if there is much of a market for the low end stuff there.
    I cannot hit curveball. Straightball I hit it very much. Curveball, bats are afraid.
    Collecting:
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  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭
    ...
  • ReggieClevelandReggieCleveland Posts: 3,818 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'm (very) slowly putting together a '33 Goudey set in Poor to Good condition, focusing on cards that present much better than their technical grade. Here are some of my favorites:

    image
    image
    image
    image
    image
    image
  • wrestlingcardkingwrestlingcardking Posts: 4,555 ✭✭✭✭
    Those Goudeys look awesome!!!
    BUYING Frank Gotch T229 Kopec
    Looking to BUY n332 1889 SF Hess cards and high grade cards from 19th century especially. "Once you have wrestled everything else in life is easy" Dan Gable
  • TNP777TNP777 Posts: 5,710 ✭✭✭
    yikes!

    If those Goudeys are 1s and 2s, then mine are -3s and -4s!
  • lahmejoonlahmejoon Posts: 1,762 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Those Goudeys look awesome!!! >>



    +1
  • Those are some good looking low grade Goudeys. Why are they only 1s and 2s?
    I'm building a 1968 and a 1970 Topps set. I have lots of 1970s and 1960s to offer in trade.
  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭
    I dont, but there is nothing wrong with it.



    I did a 1954 Topps beater set... Sold it for twice what it cost to put it together.

    I would believe that, and a smart idea. I tried on Topps years 52, 53 and 55, but then OCD got the best of me. I upgraded and finished the 55 in psa 7/8, sold of the 53's and am working on dead centered 52's
  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,126 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I don't collect lower grade sets but I did retain the sets I collected as a kid. My 1976-1980 sets from my childhood start at VG and improve to EX-MT as I got older and took better care of them. Even though I'm building a high grade 1976 set, I'll never sell the beater set I collected as a kid. The value of that set to me is much greater than the few dollars it could be sold for.
  • ExodusExodus Posts: 348 ✭✭✭
    I will add that there are some awesome cards in PSA 2 holders.
    Many times these cards are Ex-Mt+ to Nr-Mt on the front with some tape or glue on the back.
    I think these are excellent cards to get.


  • << <i>Those Goudeys look awesome!!! >>



    They are beautiful!!!
    Not everyone gives a rats rear end about the number on a flip.
  • blee1blee1 Posts: 713 ✭✭✭
    I would have never thought about collecting low grade sets until they started slabing the cards. It made the 33' Sports Kings set attainable for me.


    <but I did retain the sets I collected as a kid.>

    My first set was 81 Topps FB and I beat that thing up, Jewel Thomas is the only NM+ card and its in the first penny sleeve I ever saw. That I bought from a dealer at the fair. The card is probably deteriorating because of the PVC in that sleeve.image
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