How do you buy the card, not the slab?
Mapleleaf
Posts: 506 ✭
Like the title says "Buy the card, not the slab". It's quoted a lot on this board.
Just wondering what techniques you use to do that if you can't look at the card in person.
I ask for better photos but I usually just get the same blurry scans in response.
If it's a low dollar card, no big deal but there are some high dollar cards for sale with blurry pics that I'm not willing to take the chance on.
Just wondering what techniques you use to do that if you can't look at the card in person.
I ask for better photos but I usually just get the same blurry scans in response.
If it's a low dollar card, no big deal but there are some high dollar cards for sale with blurry pics that I'm not willing to take the chance on.
0
Comments
1. I won't buy it if it's not a high quality scan. Sometimes you have to pass on a deal if your expectations cannot be met.
2. Also, rear card scans are a must. 9 times out of 10 I will pass on the card if there is not a rear scan.
3. Corners and centering are easy to judge. In fact, you have the advantage when buying cards using your computer in these two categories due to the tools available to you on the computer.
4. Surface issues are by far the greatest challenge when trying to by high quality cards via photo or online. Ask the question if something looks like a scratch...is it on the holder or the card?
5. Other than that, scrutinize heavily before you buy. One of the greatest advantages you will have is understanding the nuances of the card issue you are buying and the problems it generally exhibits. Be able to spot the ones that don't succumb to the general problems that exist on almost every other copy.
6. This one I can't say publically.
Justin
Retired - Eddie Mathews Master Registry Set (96.36%) Rank 1
I notice that many ebay sellers show only one side of the card, even on high dollar cards.
<< <i>Now you have me curious about #6.
I notice that many ebay sellers show only one side of the card, even on high dollar cards. >>
It really isn't a huge deal to see the back of a card 9 times out of 10. I know most collectors prefer it, but as a seller, it is impractical to provide that option on all of your cards. With eBay return policies being so lenient towards the buyer, it is easy to return a card that has an unexpected flaw.
Two great tips I've picked up over the years to find a quality card for less:
Focus on centering. Centering can easily be the difference between a beautiful card and a fugly one. A PSA 6 that is well centered can easily present as an 8.
Pay attention to color, registration and surface flaws. A virbrant PSA 5 without any snow (those ugly white specks) can look a lot better than some 6's or 7's with registration issues.
The corners aren't everything. I would take a well centered, vibrant "EX-MT" card over a PSA 7 any day.
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." Dr. Seuss
Also in the past on a couple of cards that I have looked at to long, I have asked for the opinion of this board. Once they talked me into the card & once they talked me out of the card. In both cases, I am very happy with the final decision.
On one other note, sometimes I have purchased a card that you can not see well, but can make out the good centering, and take a chance on it at the right price because many people will not bid on it because of the poor scan. In one case in paticular, I picked up a Carlton RC PSA 8 for about $175 and sold it for $350. At the time I was not collecting Post War HOF Rookies, I wish I had that one back now as it is better than the one in my collection.
But if you are trying to collect the very best set that you can, I would stay strict to Justin's rules. (Except #6)
<< <i>Now you have me curious about #6.
I notice that many ebay sellers show only one side of the card, even on high dollar cards. >>
If they don't post a scan of the card, especially if it's high dollar, I ask them to do so. If they do not, or refuse, then I pass on the card.
In my opinion, you cannot buy the CARD by seeing 50% of the card. If you buy the holder, you probably don't need to see the other 50% of the card. Unfortunately, I feel that's how most sellers sell their cards these days. I'm guilty of that myself, when I post an auction (for lower dollar items), I will post the front scan only for the most part. If someone does want to see the reverse, I'm more than happy to post it. If it is a high dollar card, I do tend to post a front and back scan.
Justin
Retired - Eddie Mathews Master Registry Set (96.36%) Rank 1
WTB: PSA 1 - PSA 3 Centered, High Eye Appeal 1950's Mantle
<< <i>Attend the National
I have yet to purchase a graded card at a card show, even the National!