Which Trade dollar would you rather have for a Type Set and hold for a long time??

coinsarefun

Which one would you rather have, both are toned nicely, both are graded PCGS AU58

Or..........wait for another?
Or..........try for a better date, higher grade?

Yes, this question is not only as a collector standpoint but as an investment too
Yes, it will be going into my Type Set for a very long time.

No, I don't want to spend over $2,500

Yes, must be PCGS



1878 S, Seller has provided images.

-------OR-------

1875-CC, Images are by Trueview and seller provided images.

RYK

<< <i>Which one would you rather have, both are toned nicely, both are graded PCGS AU58

Or..........wait for another?
Or..........try for a better date, higher grade?

Yes, this question is not only as a collector standpoint but as an investment too
Yes, it will be going into my Type Set for a very long time.

No, I don't want to spend over $2,500

Yes, must be PCGS



1878 S, Seller has provided images.

-------OR-------

1875-CC, Images are by Trueview and seller provided images. >>


Do we get to see the images or should we answer based on the information provided?

coinsarefun

<< <i>Do we get to see the images or should we answer based on the information provided? >>





No images for know......both are available

Wouldn't want anyone steeling my thunder

Lets compare dates and Mint marks for know, assuming they both have nice Eye appeal. At least I feel they do

IrishMikey

All things being equal, I always go for the Carson City mint coin.

RYK

All things being equal (including price ), I would go for the CC coin.

coinsarefun

<< <i>All things being equal (including price ), I would go for the CC coin. >>






LOL.....the CC is considerably more, a little more than double but in my price range

DDR

If they both have nice eye appeal, and the price is the same, then the 75-CC, everything else being equal.

But if there is a difference on the price, you really have to see the two coins.

crypto79

those are two very common dated coins, I cant see your pics because of work filters but I would recommend going with a differet date that trades near type prices
like a
74cc (instead of the 75cc)
74s
76p


Better yet if you will jump for a CC you might consider a much rarer and higher up side semi key like
73p
73s (IMO the most under rated of the series)
74p

coinsarefun

<< <i>those are two very common dated coins, I cant see your pics because of work filters but I would recommend going with a differet date that trades near type prices
like a
74cc (instead of the 75cc)
74s
76p


Better yet if you will jump for a CC you might consider a much rarer and higher up side semi key like
73p
73s (IMO the most under rated of the series)
74p >>





Cool, thanks for the info.....I'm going to research them and see what I find

btw, what is your opinion regarding a 1877PR62?
Also too common?

Cocoinut

Tough call. It would be possible for a type coin (the 78-S) to double in value, while a better date (the 75-CC) might have a smaller percentage increase. However, as a long-term investment, and provided the eye appeal is equal, I'd go with the '75-CC. It's going to cost more, but it's a scarcer coin, and the CC mint mark gives it a coolness factor that will cause it to be more in demand.

Jim

crypto79

<< <i>Tough call. It would be possible for a type coin (the 78-S) to double in value, while a better date (the 75-CC) might have a smaller percentage increase. However, as a long-term investment, and provided the eye appeal is equal, I'd go with the '75-CC. It's going to cost more, but it's a scarcer coin, and the CC mint mark gives it a coolness factor that will cause it to be more in demand.

Jim >>



While the 75cc is a more expensive coin mostly due to the CC coolness factor one would be surprised to learn that the pops are not that much smaller than the 78s. Don't get me wrong, both dates are decent compared to the 77s,75s and 76s which make up the majority of the surviving Trade dollars but make no mistake they are right behind them.

As for the 77p in Proof62. If it has a decent skin and it suites your needs I think it is a fine choice but avoid white hairlined Pf62 coins like the flu. Remember with classic proofs the mirror depth goes a long way towards determining the value.

MilkmanDan

Not a ton more to add, but here's my take:

75-CC is common and many times weakly struck. Watch out for that. Upside - it's a CC which are usually more liquid.
78-S is the most common although I've seen a few prooflike 58s that were gorgeous. If it's a dandy then I wouldn't exclude it from your type set just because it's a common date. If not, I'd keep looking.

I would stay away from the 77 PR62, proof 62 trade dollars are rarely attractive and will still cost you $2k-2500. A much nicer business strike can be had.

A personal favorite of mine is the 76-CC although they are pretty tough to find. An interesting addition to your type set would be the 76-CC DDR or the 75-S/CC, although in your budgetary range you're looking at a VF example which probably doesn't fit your type set.

You may hate the idea, but what about a chopmarked coin? To me it would punctuate the trade aspect of the coin. There are some truly gorgeous chopmarked examples and they can be had in great condition for much cheaper than type prices because they are "damaged".

coinsarefun

<< <i>Not a ton more to add, but here's my take:

75-CC is common and many times weakly struck. Watch out for that. Upside - it's a CC which are usually more liquid.
78-S is the most common although I've seen a few prooflike 58s that were gorgeous. If it's a dandy then I wouldn't exclude it from your type set just because it's a common date. If not, I'd keep looking.

I would stay away from the 77 PR62, proof 62 trade dollars are rarely attractive and will still cost you $2k-2500. A much nicer business strike can be had.

A personal favorite of mine is the 76-CC although they are pretty tough to find. An interesting addition to your type set would be the 76-CC DDR or the 75-S/CC, although in your budgetary range you're looking at a VF example which probably doesn't fit your type set.

You may hate the idea, but what about a chopmarked coin? To me it would punctuate the trade aspect of the coin. There are some truly gorgeous chopmarked examples and they can be had in great condition for much cheaper than type prices because they are "damaged". >>







Thanks for the great insight!!!
I did have a trade dollar with chopmarks, bought it a long time ago.
When I started my type set I just couldn't live with a chop marked one.....however they are cool

Placid

1875-cc

DIMEMAN

All trade dollars are cool. I would take the advice of the TD guys here and get the prettiest one I could afford.

Good luck on your quest for the TD and the rest of the set.

Is this a Registry set that we can watch grow?

coinsarefun

<< <i>All trade dollars are cool. I would take the advice of the TD guys here and get the prettiest one I could afford.

Good luck on your quest for the TD and the rest of the set.

Is this a Registry set that we can watch grow? >>






Hey Jon,
Yea, trade dollars are one of my favorites. One would never know as I have only had one of them
And sure my registry set can be watched as it grows. There is a link in my sig line.

Here is the link also, I will be eliminating a few and adding a few, hopefully soon.

stealer

I would go with the CC all day long. With that said, I agree with crpyto on investing in better dates, although the trouble is finding nice coins in the higher AU range for those dates and MM's. Good luck, they are addicting and you should consider keeping both




<< <i>

<< <i>Not a ton more to add, but here's my take:

75-CC is common and many times weakly struck. Watch out for that. Upside - it's a CC which are usually more liquid.
78-S is the most common although I've seen a few prooflike 58s that were gorgeous. If it's a dandy then I wouldn't exclude it from your type set just because it's a common date. If not, I'd keep looking.

I would stay away from the 77 PR62, proof 62 trade dollars are rarely attractive and will still cost you $2k-2500. A much nicer business strike can be had.

A personal favorite of mine is the 76-CC although they are pretty tough to find. An interesting addition to your type set would be the 76-CC DDR or the 75-S/CC, although in your budgetary range you're looking at a VF example which probably doesn't fit your type set.

You may hate the idea, but what about a chopmarked coin? To me it would punctuate the trade aspect of the coin. There are some truly gorgeous chopmarked examples and they can be had in great condition for much cheaper than type prices because they are "damaged". >>







Thanks for the great insight!!!
I did have a trade dollar with chopmarks, bought it a long time ago.
When I started my type set I just couldn't live with a chop marked one.....however they are cool >>




Chopped Trade Dollars did see their heyday a while back when collectors valued the idea of the coin had, for sure, circulated in the Orient. The prices will probably never recover to levels it used to enjoy, but they are a nice way to get some coins at a discount.

yellowkid

The CC, but it would be all about the eye appeal.

TheRaven

The Carson City coin in my opinion almost always wins out if all else is equal....

DIMEMAN

Stef, I went and gazed upon your coins......very nice! And colorful. I even like the modern stuff, which is hard to say for me.

One thing about doing the showcase route.......there are no distracting holes.

Keep it up...looking forward to seeing new coins added.

roadrunner

Neither date imo is a keeper, even the CC in that grade. I would go after whatever coin had amazing eye appeal and color in the AU55-58 grade. Whatever that is.
That kind of quality will always be in demand for both date and type collectors. The color and eye appeal premium on circ trade dollars is only beginning to catch up to
things like Morgan dollars and classic commems. Another option would be a rarer, yet unappreciated variety of a particular date.

EVillageProwler

I'd go with either Crypto's first response, or OD's idea of a chop marked piece (but with awesome eye appeal, and minimally chopped), or RR's first response.

If you go with chop marked, then be aware that the pricing for some will counter to your expectations for an un-chopped piece.

EVP