Thinking of attempting a pre-war type set...
llafoe
Posts: 7,220 ✭✭
Looking at the pop report, the dominate grades for pre-war cards are PSA 4/PSA 5.
If you were attempting a pre-war type set would you:
a) Purchase all the cards in a single grade; say PSA 4 for a consistent look (price could be $50-$5,000)
b) Purchase all the cards at a certain price; say $500 for a consistent value (grade could be Authentic to PSA 8)
What's the most important aspect of a displayed type set: a consistent look or a consistent value?
If you were attempting a pre-war type set would you:
a) Purchase all the cards in a single grade; say PSA 4 for a consistent look (price could be $50-$5,000)
b) Purchase all the cards at a certain price; say $500 for a consistent value (grade could be Authentic to PSA 8)
What's the most important aspect of a displayed type set: a consistent look or a consistent value?
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If you are building a type set (I am guessing 1 or 2 cards from each set) then I would go for the nicest looking card of a particular series that I could afford. In some cases that may be a PSA 3 and others it could be a PSA 7.
Edit to add that if you are willing/able to spend up to $5000 per card I would certainly make it a HOFer.
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Good luck with whatever you decide. About a year ago I started collecting prewar baseball almost exclusively, and I've had a blast with it.
Jeff
http://luckeycards.com/personal.html
Why did you choose 1949 over 1941? End of a decade? a half-century? 1948 is the beginning of "mainstream" post-war baseball card collecting which is why I'm considering 1941 as my cutoff.
Leon's Collection
Edited to add: What resource do you use the most: ACC? Encyclopedia of Baseball Cards? your website? your forum?
<< <i>Thanks Leon!
Why did you choose 1949 over 1941? End of a decade? a half-century? 1948 is the beginning of "mainstream" post-war baseball card collecting which is why I'm considering 1941 as my cutoff.
Leon's Collection
Edited to add: What resource do you use the most: ACC? Encyclopedia of Baseball Cards? your website? your forum?
I chose 1949 because starting in 1950 there were even more regional issues put out and I just had to have a cutoff. The reason I didn't make it true pre-war (1941) is because I ran out of stuff to collect
I have multiple copies of almost everything, in the way of references, as I collect old hobby pubs too. If I can be of any help just let me know. Also, as a small shameless plug, if you aren't registered with my little auction company, Brockelman and Luckey Auctions, you should be. We sell a ton of pre-war type cards in our auctions along with lots of other cards too. It is www.b-lauctions.com ....there is one starting in another month or so. Lots of items in the $50-$200 range will be in it. We won't have a preview up until a couple of days before it opens.
2011 Standard Catalog of Baseball Cards
or
Standard Catalog of Vintage Baseball Cards (2012), 21st Edition
<< <i>What is the SCD Baseball Big Book:
2011 Standard Catalog of Baseball Cards
or
Standard Catalog of Vintage Baseball Cards (2012), 21st Edition >>
That is the one, I have both and like the 2011 best. Since I am (or have been a contributor to it) I have received a few copies free. I think I have both 2011 and 2012 in my office (as well as approximately 10 previous years too).
<< <i>As someone who has focused the last 17 yrs building a pre-war type set my recommendation would be to go for completion, first and foremost. Depending on how detailed you want to get you better take what you find when you find it. Some issues are so tough it can be at least several years between seeing an example. Some will take longer than that. I wouldn't worry about what TPG graded it or if the card is raw. I was within a few cards of the 19th century type set when I sold them because of limited resources. I am 2 toughies away from completion, from 1900-1949, and have most of the different backs from each set. Scans are under each name.....I love type collecting...and btw, type collecting has been around since the beginning of organized card collecting in the US.
http://luckeycards.com/personal.html >>
Hiya Leon
Just reviewed your collection - more than incredible!
On the "T" category - how come no T3? It's one of all-time favorites - tho I'm only about 25% complete since I'm not a card collector - board games make me crazy!
Thanx for sharing.
<< <i>Looking at the pop report, the dominate grades for pre-war cards are PSA 4/PSA 5.
If you were attempting a pre-war type set would you:
a) Purchase all the cards in a single grade; say PSA 4 for a consistent look (price could be $50-$5,000)
b) Purchase all the cards at a certain price; say $500 for a consistent value (grade could be Authentic to PSA 8)
What's the most important aspect of a displayed type set: a consistent look or a consistent value? >>
Hey there Larry.
You've received some really good advice - as was previously said - some "types" will drive you nuts finding even one example - and be ready to fork out some dough.
The ones that are more plentiful? IMO? I would go for a nice 6 or 7 equivalent - in the more rare? Take whatever you see or if more than one - what you can budget.
IMO - it's a great focus/goal - good luck if you decide to go down that long, long road.
<< <i>
<< <i>As someone who has focused the last 17 yrs building a pre-war type set my recommendation would be to go for completion, first and foremost. Depending on how detailed you want to get you better take what you find when you find it. Some issues are so tough it can be at least several years between seeing an example. Some will take longer than that. I wouldn't worry about what TPG graded it or if the card is raw. I was within a few cards of the 19th century type set when I sold them because of limited resources. I am 2 toughies away from completion, from 1900-1949, and have most of the different backs from each set. Scans are under each name.....I love type collecting...and btw, type collecting has been around since the beginning of organized card collecting in the US.
http://luckeycards.com/personal.html >>
Hiya Leon
Just reviewed your collection - more than incredible!
On the "T" category - how come no T3? It's one of all-time favorites - tho I'm only about 25% complete since I'm not a card collector - board games make me crazy!
Thanx for sharing. >>
Thanks for the kind words on the collection. It's a labor of love. Eventually I will have a T3 Cobb but I haven't wanted to fork out the money yet. My MO is to get the most scarce ones first and I have about done that minus a couple of cards., which almost never come up for sale. T3 Cobbs come up for sale quite frequently and I would guess 2013 will be the year for one for me. I need an upgrade on my T5 also, as it's not on a Pinkerton mount. I still need a D351 and D355, which are the two real toughies. After that I will fill in a few easy ones and be done. Then I will continue with backs and variations in each set. That should make it a life long pursuit if I choose to make it that.