Stereo images to show luster depth
messydesk
Posts: 20,305 ✭✭✭✭✭
A while back, I showed some stereo images I took to show the high design relief. This technique also works well to show the depth of luster. Cross your eyes until the center picture "locks" in place. This is easiest if you concentrate on a small detail, like a face. For those that can't do this, I added a "cha-cha" stereogram of the obverse. This 36-D Texas is one of my FUN newps.
John
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
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Fellas, leave the tight pants to the ladies. If I can count the coins in your pockets you better use them to call a tailor. Stay thirsty my friends......
<< <i>WAY cool. You reek with talent. MJ >>
<< <i>
<< <i>WAY cool. You reek with talent. MJ >>
When you awake you will buy more coins."
"Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working" Pablo Picasso
When you awake you will want to have PCGS grade all your coins".
"“Those who sacrifice liberty for security/safety deserve neither.“(Benjamin Franklin)
"I only golf on days that end in 'Y'" (DE59)
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It does bring out depth and luster.
Wonder when the TPGs will start offering this.....or better yet, your next side line job!
Best and thank you.
JH
Proof Buffalo Registry Set
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personally luster is so lighting subjective I don't find the potential luster-information provided to balance against the massive annoyance at looking at that image.
obviously, my .02
Too many positive BST transactions with too many members to list.
Now, how do "unlock" your eyes..
2) Do you need funding?
PM for further discussion
How does it look on AU coins? That's the real test. But this seems like a photo breakthru.
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-Dan
AB
<< <i>Awesome! Now I have to visit my optometrist!
Be sure to tell him I sent you.
<< <i>Now, how do "unlock" your eyes..
Turn your head and cough.
<< <i>1) Can you patent the process?
2) Do you need funding? >>
Perhaps I could come up with something patentable related to this, but as of now, it's just applying known stereophotography techniques to coins. I believe there are even dual-lens digital cameras that could be used.
<< <i>How does it look on AU coins? That's the real test. But this seems like a photo breakthru. >>
It depends on the coin. I expect that it works just fine. You won't see as much depth, but you should see other things like hairlines that pop off the coin and broken field luster that interrupts the cartwheels, just like when you look at an AU coin in hand. This should work in either the cha-cha mode or cross-eyed (or parallel) viewing modes. The key is starting with two good pictures that have the same exposure. If the exposures don't match, it would be like wearing a darkened monocle when viewing coins. I'll pull out an AU58 Morgan tonight and see how it looks.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
How well does it work when the coin's inside a slab?
<< <i>How does it look on AU coins? That's the real test. But this seems like a photo breakthru. >>
Here's an AU58 1894-O Morgan. It seems like the rub on the tip of the bust shows up a little better with the stereo picture than it does with either of the others.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
In God We Trust.... all others pay in Gold and Silver!
Below are a few that I did (no longer own the coins).
These were created from pics done with an old Sony Mavica, so the resolution is rather lousy. The Alabama 2x2 came out the best in my opinion. It was in an ANACS small holder MS-64 slab. The Lafayette dollar and 1805 Half Cent are raw examples of AU coins. The 1910 Lincoln was a PCGS MS-65 Red made using fewer pics than the others.
They were made by taking a series of jpg Mavica pictures, moving the lighting between each one then manually cropping them (which I thinks creates some of the final jumpinesss as it is not precise). Next I used the free GIMP 2.6.11 program to convert those to a GIF file. Tried some other programs, but GIMP made the smallest final sized file compared to the others. It still is about 4 times the size of the individual total of the jpg's and they were fairly small in the 15kb to 40kb range.
The Alabama used 14 individual pictures and totaled 1891KB for the GIF; the Lafayette used 13 pics and 1700KB for the GIF; the 1805 half cent had 14 pics and 1244KB for the GIF; the 1910 cent had 7 pics and 469KB for the GIF. I found that 12 to 16 pics worked best for this method which is why the luster on the 1910 1c does not rotate as smoothly.
Using high resolution pics with much larger individual sizes could end up with a final GIF size that would be larger than just using video unless someone knows how to keep the size down.
Looks like messydesk's GIF pic is similar to what these are except with just with 2 angles combined instead of several.
Anybody got any good tips or other better ones to post?
"To Be Esteemed Be Useful" - 1792 Birch Cent --- "I personally think we developed language because of our deep need to complain." - Lily Tomlin
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