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how much upside potential do you need

For all you fliPpers out there: how much upside do you need before submitting a potential PSA 10 that would otherwise end up being a relatively worthless PSA 9? Up until now, I have typically submitted superstar cards that have some value in any grade. However, do to some recent acquisitions, I have several commons that would sell for $50+ if graded a 10. At $5.25/card, there isn't a lot of risk, but at the same time, I don't want to end up with 25 PSA 9's that don't even cover my submission costs.

Comments

  • lightningboylightningboy Posts: 1,483 ✭✭✭
    anyone with any personal guidelines on sbmitting cmmons to resell?
  • digicatdigicat Posts: 8,551 ✭✭
    Be very conservative in your pre-grading.
    My Giants collection want list

    WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
  • thehallmarkthehallmark Posts: 1,332 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Be very conservative in your pre-grading. >>



    So true. If you're going to be submitting a lot of commons for resale profit, you need to get to the point where every card you send in has a 50+% chance of being graded 10. Otherwise you're just wasting your own time.
  • fiveninerfiveniner Posts: 4,111 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Be very conservative in your pre-grading. >>



    So true. If you're going to be submitting a lot of commons for resale profit, you need to get to the point where every card you send in has a 50+% chance of being graded 10. Otherwise you're just wasting your own time. >>

    image
    Tony(AN ANGEL WATCHES OVER ME)
  • JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 12,000 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I don't bother to submit any card that has little or no profitability as a 9. The cards I am submitting are generally fron the 1960's -70's. PSA is very tough about giving out 10's.

    I am assuming you are dealing more with modern. You better be very good at coming up with 10's or you are going to lose money. I would say you need to make a profit of at least $20.00 per card AFTER all is said and done to make it worth your time.

    Joe
    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
  • burke23burke23 Posts: 1,475 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I don't bother to submit any card that has little or no profitability as a 9. The cards I am submitting are generally fron the 1960's -70's. PSA is very tough about giving out 10's.

    I am assuming you are dealing more with modern. You better be very good at coming up with 10's or you are going to lose money. I would say you need to make a profit of at least $20.00 per card AFTER all is said and done to make it worth your time.

    Joe >>



    Pretty solid approach there. You need a 10 to wipe out at least one additional sub cost for those that you don't hit a 10 on after all expenses. That way if you go .500 you don't lose money.
    Looking for rare Randy Moss rookies and autos, as well as '97 PMG Red Football cards for my set.
  • lightningboylightningboy Posts: 1,483 ✭✭✭
    thank you. That is some of the reasoning I was looling for
  • A couple of months ago, just after getting back in collecting, I sent in several (maybe I should say many) cards . With the small amount of experience that I have gained in those two months I now realize that I have wasted a lot of money. I'm much more discerning now. Oh well, I'm just glad that I'm learning. image
  • Beck6Beck6 Posts: 1,038 ✭✭✭
    I always keep a pile of those PSA 10 cards to fill in orders. I normally put in about 3-5 per order. Sometimes they hit and usually they miss, but if they hit it is a nice surprise and I do not have an entire order of cards that must hit a 10.
    Registry Sets:
    T222's PSA 1 or better
  • ldfergldferg Posts: 6,745 ✭✭✭
    Gauge what you are submitting with what 4SC is selling. If they are selling 10s for $10 or less, it could be a losing battle to compete with their inventory.


    Thanks,

    David (LD_Ferg)



    1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
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