Grading Help Pre War To Grade or Not ???

thedutymon

Evening,

The two cards scanned here are 2 of the Iconic Pre-War Non Sports cards in the Hobby. I bought these for a quick flip but am at a quandry as to how to proceed as the cards actually present better in hand then in the ended E-Bay auction.

The first is the 1938 Horrors of War # 283, it is perhaps in the top 5 of all Non Sports Cards. Of the 85 examples that have been graded by PSA. I have had my hands on about 10-12 of those graded, also I have bought/sold/traded another 10-15 examples. This card is notorious for centering issues especially top to bottom in concert with a side to side OC both on the same card. Even several of the handfull of NM-MT 8's wouldn't be an 8 in another set, due to centering.

So I'm looking at a case of Buy the Card not the Holder, before its holdered. In other words if I holder this what does it get because of the corner crease? It exemplifies about the best centering you will ever see in this card, bright, clear, front, really clean back. But if it only comes back a Good 2 or VG 3, and the Buyer buys the case and not the card then its a roughly a $225-$325 card. Looking at the Vg 3's and my 3.5 that sold awhile ago those cards (Except) for the corner crease don't hold a candle to this card. This card should be sold at a premium due to the centering, but always have the problem when I see something like this myself of asking "Why isn't it holdered?"





So should I grade and what is the grade?


The second card the # 286 is just about the same story except there are fewer examples graded and a preponderence of those are lower grades in general then the #283. So it is a tad harder to come by. If this comes back as a VG 3 it is about a $150=$200 card, but presents as a much nicer card and some of the VG 3's I've seen don't hold a candle to this one.





Should I grade and what is the Grade?

Any help would be appreciated, opinions.

Thanks

Neil

SDSportsFan

I would grade the #283 as a 2, due to not only the crease in the upper left corner, but also due to the two parallel indented lines running across the card. The #286, I'd grade a 3.

Personally, given the iconic nature of the cards, I would get them graded. I'd think any collectors interested in the cards would understand the difficulty in getting centered examples, and would recognize these particular cards as "higher-end" for the grade.

Edited to add:

Grading the cards would also, I think, make it easier for you to sell them on ebay, if that's what you're looking to do. Keep in mind that ebay frowns on items displaying the Nazi swastika. If they're graded by PSA (or SGC), ebay should let them go.

Steve

otwcards

Neil:

#283: Front surface break (at the crease) and front horizontal impressions will relegate this to a PSA 2 at best.

#286: Corner crease seem (top right and bottom left) to be the only major problems, but in combination, I think locks you into a PSA 3.

Just my humble opinion . . . your mileage may vary!

cpamike

Hey Neil,

Good to see you back on the boards. I've never seen those cards before so thanks for sharing.

I vote to get them graded as well, but I'm not the guy to ask for grading advice, LOL.

Mat84

Every time I see a bright, nicely centered, low grade card I generally experience the opposite of "buy the holder not the card". See: PSA 2 Mantle Probstein just sold for 7k.

That said I did not know these cards existed and I want them all. Good show.

hookem

As a buyer, I am always concerned about the authenticity of an important card like this that is not slabbed. I personally would bid higher on the slabbed version and go above the grade due to the eye appeal. If it was listed raw, my bid would be below the grade price.

MeeMahMother

Heck yeah grade them ! Those ARE the non sport 51 Mantles. PSA 1's would even be cool.

neildown

Need help sleeping at night?

Collecting Nazi cards. really?

mattinglymint23

I recently saw some postings for a 52 mantle psa Authentic list higher than a 2 & 3.
You may consider that - I believe it's an option on the form but could be wrong. Authentic does not need to imply real but altered.
Getting those cards slabbed be sand authenticated is your objective. The number will be distracting.

NickM

<< <i>Need help sleeping at night?

Collecting Nazi cards. really? >>



You're an ignorant troll.

Go away.

Nick