Coin looks good to me. Does he or she posses this NGC IHC? Dunno. Seller does violate the Ebay policy of having two slab shots. Will send the seller a message, asking where is the slab shot.
Good catch Rick! In addition to what Rick said about the first feathertip not having detail, the "S" on the reverse, both the upper and lower serifs of the mint mark look like trumpets. The bottom of the upper serif almost touches the curve of the “S” mintmark. Also both the top and bottom serif are parallel.
. i'm not saying that i think the coin is authentic but the MM is not east of the position for S-1.
S2 position is immediately disqualified because of that great image RS provided of the S2's crooked dentil directly southwest of the mm on the authentic S2 reverse image.
I lined up the MM of S1 and the coin in question horizontally (to the pixel) based on the dentil positions below the mm with enlarged images which was tough because the seller's image is so poor.
it appears east since the reverse image is rotated a few degrees counter clockwise.
however the mm in the seller's images does appear (when lined up with enlarged images) to be too high vertically. again tough because of poor sellers images.
please do not use these for comparative analysis in the future. i made these specifically for this instance and they may not apply in other scenarios.
the horizontal lines were tough to line up from the poor lighting of the seller's image
the coin in question seems to have the too good to be true look with such nice fields and the dentils and other design features when enlarged are not as crisp as other known authentic examples,
including the MM. finding such a uncrisp mm on authentic high-grade examples is not common.
<< <i>. i'm not saying that i think the coin is authentic but the MM is not east of the position for S-1.
S2 position is immediately disqualified because of that great image RS provided of the S2's crooked dentil directly southwest of the mm on the authentic S2 reverse image.
I lined up the MM of S1 and the coin in question horizontally (to the pixel) based on the dentil positions below the mm with enlarged images which was tough because the seller's image is so poor.
it appears east since the reverse image is rotated a few degrees counter clockwise.
however the mm in the seller's images does appear (when lined up with enlarged images) to be too high vertically. again tough because of poor sellers images.
please do not use these for comparative analysis in the future. i made these specifically for this instance and they may not apply in other scenarios.
the horizontal lines were tough to line up from the poor lighting of the seller's image
the coin in question seems to have the too good to be true look with such nice fields and the dentils and other design features when enlarged are not as crisp as other known authentic examples,
including the MM. finding such a uncrisp mm on authentic high-grade examples is not common.
>>
Your credentials lead me to think you work with AutoCad on a daily basis! What type of design do you specialize in? Your analysis of this 1909-S is most interesting.
The lines help a lot, without them the position looks different.
I've used lines like that to compare the dots on real/fake S-VDBs. It's easier to compare on side by side pics with lines. You can even do decent lines with paint if you have nothing better.
. i prefer paint. the one that comes with win7 64bit home premium is 6.1 build 6700. i'll also bring up paint.net and photoscape for cropping, overlays, rotating etc.
no cad experience. just some creativity, desire and trial & error. I also ALWAYS prefer consults even if i think i am 100% certain. :-)
i am however working on consistency of how i authenticate every coin. same method regardless of type. if i had the coins though i'd be using another program with cad-like basic features that will
calculate fractions of a mm. a bit anal, but extremely accurate. while instinct and experience are tough, i'm trying to steer away from that with solid factual data.
i'm also quite confident there are a lot of people out there with extensive authenticating experience but we just don't get the privilege of their presence here. .
<< <i>The lines help a lot, without them the position looks different.
I've used lines like that to compare the dots on real/fake S-VDBs. It's easier to compare on side by side pics with lines. You can even do decent lines with paint if you have nothing better. >>
i agree. copy/pasting a line of the same length and width overrides my ability to think something looks the same or different. too much left to interpretation and when authenticating coins that are
above average counterfeits, i prefer to leave as little to chance as possible especially when messing with someone's business and/or causing legal problems. plus i don't like being wrong .
Comments
Seller does violate the Ebay policy of having two slab shots.
Will send the seller a message, asking where is the slab shot.
i get the impression rick is stating the auction is fraudulent
probably images of a good coin which the seller does not possess
.
I try to give people the benefit of the doubt, it does have that funny feeling though.
Waiting for a reply.
<< <i><<i get the impression rick is stating the auction is fraudulent>>
I try to give people the benefit of the doubt, it does have that funny feeling though.
Waiting for a reply. >>
hehehe. that is nice you do that.
when it come to nuking ebay auctions, i am not so generous. i figure a warning from ebay is more effective than a message from some random person.
.
Here's real one:
coin in question
Good info..........the "S" looks funny and too far east also......jmo
Admittedly the MM does look like it's bulging and too big but I'm not so quick to condemn it. It looks like it could be the first reverse type IMO
<< <i>So are you saying NGC authenticated a fake? >>
or a counterfeit holder
.
The Penny Lady®
No slab shown with grade in title.
Did he wait to strike with perfect feedback and lots of sales?
<< <i>..the "S" looks funny and too far east also......jmo >>
Yep, that S is really far east of either of the dies!
i'm not saying that i think the coin is authentic but the MM is not east of the position for S-1.
S2 position is immediately disqualified because of that great image RS provided of the S2's crooked dentil directly southwest of the mm on the authentic S2 reverse image.
I lined up the MM of S1 and the coin in question horizontally (to the pixel) based on the dentil positions below the mm with enlarged images which was tough because the seller's image is so poor.
it appears east since the reverse image is rotated a few degrees counter clockwise.
however the mm in the seller's images does appear (when lined up with enlarged images) to be too high vertically. again tough because of poor sellers images.
please do not use these for comparative analysis in the future. i made these specifically for this instance and they may not apply in other scenarios.
the horizontal lines were tough to line up from the poor lighting of the seller's image
the coin in question seems to have the too good to be true look with such nice fields and the dentils and other design features when enlarged are not as crisp as other known authentic examples,
including the MM. finding such a uncrisp mm on authentic high-grade examples is not common.
<< <i>.
i'm not saying that i think the coin is authentic but the MM is not east of the position for S-1.
S2 position is immediately disqualified because of that great image RS provided of the S2's crooked dentil directly southwest of the mm on the authentic S2 reverse image.
I lined up the MM of S1 and the coin in question horizontally (to the pixel) based on the dentil positions below the mm with enlarged images which was tough because the seller's image is so poor.
it appears east since the reverse image is rotated a few degrees counter clockwise.
however the mm in the seller's images does appear (when lined up with enlarged images) to be too high vertically. again tough because of poor sellers images.
please do not use these for comparative analysis in the future. i made these specifically for this instance and they may not apply in other scenarios.
the horizontal lines were tough to line up from the poor lighting of the seller's image
the coin in question seems to have the too good to be true look with such nice fields and the dentils and other design features when enlarged are not as crisp as other known authentic examples,
including the MM. finding such a uncrisp mm on authentic high-grade examples is not common.
Your credentials lead me to think you work with AutoCad on a daily basis!
What type of design do you specialize in?
Your analysis of this 1909-S is most interesting.
The lines help a lot, without them the position looks different.
I've used lines like that to compare the dots on real/fake S-VDBs.
It's easier to compare on side by side pics with lines.
You can even do decent lines with paint if you have nothing better.
i prefer paint. the one that comes with win7 64bit home premium is 6.1 build 6700. i'll also bring up paint.net and photoscape for cropping, overlays, rotating etc.
no cad experience. just some creativity, desire and trial & error. I also ALWAYS prefer consults even if i think i am 100% certain. :-)
i am however working on consistency of how i authenticate every coin. same method regardless of type. if i had the coins though i'd be using another program with cad-like basic features that will
calculate fractions of a mm. a bit anal, but extremely accurate. while instinct and experience are tough, i'm trying to steer away from that with solid factual data.
i'm also quite confident there are a lot of people out there with extensive authenticating experience but we just don't get the privilege of their presence here.
.
<< <i>The lines help a lot, without them the position looks different.
I've used lines like that to compare the dots on real/fake S-VDBs.
It's easier to compare on side by side pics with lines.
You can even do decent lines with paint if you have nothing better. >>
i agree. copy/pasting a line of the same length and width overrides my ability to think something looks the same or different. too much left to interpretation and when authenticating coins that are
above average counterfeits, i prefer to leave as little to chance as possible especially when messing with someone's business and/or causing legal problems. plus i don't like being wrong
.
<< <i>The listing has been removed. thanks to everyone who alerted eBay. >>
i wonder for what reason it was removed? counterfeit? certified image violation?
if it pops back up any time soon, we'll know it was the latter. hopefully since RS is confident it is the former, never to be heard from again :-)
.
It would be good to be on the look out for that cert number.
the fact there was no full slab photo with cert available WAS the problem :-)
.
<< <i>the fact there was no full slab photo with cert available WAS the problem :-) >>
GTK, I must have been thinking of another coin.
<< <i>GTK, I must have been thinking of another coin. >>
i don't know what GTK is but here is the post that cleared up the slab inquiry
<< <i>Do you see an NGC holder? Maybe an NGC plastic holder broken out, but I doubt it is in a slab. >>
.
<< <i>GTK = Good To Know. >>
well that is GTK then
.