How often do you crack and re submit or ask for regrade?

Cakes

Specifically on cards valued over say $500. A half point or full point can be such a large increase in value and I love to gamble. Do you have any specific setup, say once a year, a PSA pricing special, etc...?

In general do you think the graders are stricter then 2 to 3 years ago? It seems like the coin graders have become stricter the last couple of years, specifically with moderns.

Thanks,

BC

itzagoner

that's a touchy subject, mister. i almost rammed a flathead screwdriver through a milky white vintage border yesterday. fortunately, it was a cheepee.

if i feel a card is undergraded and it's worth the effort, i'll try it again. usually works out pretty favorably. but, i might wait awhile, even a couple years before resubbing, so i can organize a group to which a cracked out card can belong. there needs to be some measure of consistency within the order, at least from my perspective, so if you're hoping to achieve a certain grade level, you should consider a submission of several similar cards.

it's gotta fit. since my belief is that the graders will grade consistently based on what they see, i wouldn't try to send in a card i want to see in a NM-MT 8 holder surrounded by potential 4's and 5's.

but i would surround it with potential 9's.

Cakes

<< <i>that's a touchy subject, mister. i almost rammed a flathead screwdriver through a milky white vintage border yesterday. fortunately, it was a cheepee.

if i feel a card is undergraded and it's worth the effort, i'll try it again. usually works out pretty favorably. but, i might wait awhile, even a couple years before resubbing, so i can organize a group to which a cracked out card can belong. there needs to be some measure of consistency within the order, at least from my perspective, so if you're hoping to achieve a certain grade level, you should consider a submission of several similar cards.

it's gotta fit. since my belief is that the graders will grade consistently based on what they see, i wouldn't try to send in a card i want to see in a NM-MT 8 holder surrounded by potential 4's and 5's.

but i would surround it with potential 9's. >>



That's is great, such a collector, almost ramned a flathead screwdriver through a milky white vintage border yesterday, but not a care in the world for your finger or hand.

fiveniner

not often

MiniDuff

Agree COMPLETELY with goner... it is not scientific, but I have seen time and again that grades come in bunches. Once an order sets a pattern of 8s, 9s are harder to come by, etc. I always try to front load an order with my best (condition) cards for that reason and it has worked well for me.

CollectorAtWork

I do it whenever I need to fill out a submission. For example, if I have my Collector's Club voucher for 15 cards, and I can only find 12-13 or so, for it. Then I look through my cards to see if any of them would be good candidates for a bump. Same thing when I need to send in a card for grading at a higher service level to make sure that it is authentic, and for a special. Since you already have to pay postage to and from PSA, and adding a few more cards won't make much of a change in the postage price, I also look for cards that I want to bump or crossover from SGC after cracking out. As with any crackout, you need to honestly evaluate the card and not the holder. I've learned this the painful way after some of my cards went down in grade instead of going up or at least staying the same.

Cakes

<< <i>I do it whenever I need to fill out a submission. For example, if I have my Collector's Club voucher for 15 cards, and I can only find 12-13 or so, for it. Then I look through my cards to see if any of them would be good candidates for a bump. Same thing when I need to send in a card for grading at a higher service level to make sure that it is authentic, and for a special. Since you already have to pay postage to and from PSA, and adding a few more cards won't make much of a change in the postage price, I also look for cards that I want to bump or crossover from SGC after cracking out. As with any crackout, you need to honestly evaluate the card and not the holder. I've learned this the painful way after some of my cards went down in grade instead of going up or at least staying the same. >>



Good advice, that's pretty much what I will do. Thank you

PSARich

I do it about once a year. I pull out a few cards I receive back from PSA that I feel were undergraded and keep them until a later date. I just sent four crack-outs with my recent order that I just got back. As usual, limited success and one kick in the butt. It is always a risk when you re-submit but overall I have come out ahead. I think you need to limit it to a few cards that you feel really strong about. Here's my recent results. A 1959 Mantle AS that was a 7 and came back an 8 (I felt it was a strong 8-8.5), 1958 Mantle-Aaron that was a 6 came back EOT (ouch), a 1959 high number that was an 8 came back a 9, and a 1959 9PD which in my opinion had very little "snow" and not any more than many straight 9's I have...came back 9PD again. Got to say PSA was consistent on that one.

If you really feel confident in your ability to grade a card it can be worth it. I use a 10X blue light magnifier that allows me to really evaluate corners and edges. When I am off it is normally a small crease that I have missed. But once again, be prepared to get a lesser grade or a qualifier in some cases and if it happens you can only be upset with yourself. However, when you get the grade you think the card deserves it can make your day.

Cakes

<< <i>I do it about once a year. I pull out a few cards I receive back from PSA that I feel were undergraded and keep them until a later date. I just sent four crack-outs with my recent order that I just got back. As usual, limited success and one kick in the butt. It is always a risk when you re-submit but overall I have come out ahead. I think you need to limit it to a few cards that you feel really strong about. Here's my recent results. A 1959 Mantle AS that was a 7 and came back an 8 (I felt it was a strong 8-8.5), 1958 Mantle-Aaron that was a 6 came back EOT (ouch), a 1959 high number that was an 8 came back a 9, and a 1959 9PD which in my opinion had very little "snow" and not any more than many straight 9's I have...came back 9PD again. Got to say PSA was consistent on that one.

If you really feel confident in your ability to grade a card it can be worth it. I use a 10X blue light magnifier that allows me to really evaluate corners and edges. When I am off it is normally a small crease that I have missed. But once again, be prepared to get a lesser grade or a qualifier in some cases and if it happens you can only be upset with yourself. However, when you get the grade you think the card deserves it can make your day. >>



Gotcha, gotcha, thank you. I really need to sharpen my grading skills, does anyone offer a seminar, etc...there seems to be some on the coin side? I have to admit up until this point I haven't used any magnification in dealing with cards, maybe that is part of my problem. I really have a tough time with grading certain sets, the 86 Topps Football set has given me fits. I am not sure I could tell the difference between an 8 and a 10.

Do you ever crack out cards that seem to be graded correctly just to hope and get maybe a half point or more? The price difference in a half of point on a more valuable card is hard to resist.

MiniDuff

It all comes down to the math. If you have a card that is a $10 8 and would be worth $100 in a 9, if it is a strong 8, I'll take a crack or two at it. If its $12 in a 9, do you really want to be into it for $10 in grading? Just an example, but it works for me.

I have had a cracked six come back an 8.5 and a cracked 8 come back a 10. I have also had cracked 8s come back 7s and 9 pds. I also revert to the risk/reward. I also use my renewal freebies for higher dollar reviews I dont want to crack.