Shutterspeed & Aperture
morgansforever
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All the pics are shot with the exact same lighting config 10 n 2, 64ISO, 14MP, L4:3 Fine, f-stop5.4, 5.1x zoom, 18" above Morgan and flat.
Pics are raw straight from cam to PB. I did learn something, the faster the shutter speed the darker the pic, slower shutterspeed pics are brighter. Do I have this correct? I can adjust it from 1 to 2000th of a second.
Guess my question is, better to brighten a dark pic, or darken a bright pic? Or shoot somewhere in the middle and go from there?
I think the 1/500 pic came out best and adjust from there you?
Thanks,
Scott
Shutterspeed 1/200
Shutterspeed 1/250
Shutterspeed 1/320
Shutterspeed 1/400
Shutterspeed 1/500
Shutterspeed 1/640
Shutterspeed 1/800
Shutterspeed 1/1000
Shutterspeed 1/1200
Pics are raw straight from cam to PB. I did learn something, the faster the shutter speed the darker the pic, slower shutterspeed pics are brighter. Do I have this correct? I can adjust it from 1 to 2000th of a second.
Guess my question is, better to brighten a dark pic, or darken a bright pic? Or shoot somewhere in the middle and go from there?
I think the 1/500 pic came out best and adjust from there you?
Thanks,
Scott
Shutterspeed 1/200
Shutterspeed 1/250
Shutterspeed 1/320
Shutterspeed 1/400
Shutterspeed 1/500
Shutterspeed 1/640
Shutterspeed 1/800
Shutterspeed 1/1000
Shutterspeed 1/1200
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Comments
Well, yes, when all else remains the same, a faster shutter speed leaves less time for light to touch the imaging sensor so it would be darker.
The higher the ISO the blurrier the pic at least in my experience.
EDIT: Some other settings, sharpness is set to hard, photometry is set to spot, AF mode is center and AE BKT EV STEPS IS +/- 1/3
Shutter speed is not really significant if you are using a copy stand and remotely firing your shutter
You can use any shutter speed within reason
As long as its coupled with the correct f stop and ISO
I would set the iso at around 100 or 200
Set the f stop around 8 or 11 which will give you better depth of field or more will be in focus than the 5.4 you are using
Use aperture priority and the camera will choose the right speed to achieve a balanced exposure
If the photo is too dark the increase the exposure compensation
Too light then reduce the exposure compensation
Use manual white balance
No need to use manual exposure unless you like it, if you use manual
Still use f 8 or 11 in that case and vary your shutter instead of exposure ompensation
I'll try a higher ISO and higher f-stop.
Will increasing these 2 settings together make the images crisper/cleaner?
I've read increasing ISO will give you a noisier pic? True?
<< <i>Well, yes, when all else remains the same, a faster shutter speed leaves less time for light to touch the imaging sensor so it would be darker. >>
Bingo.
<< <i>Also been playing around with ISO settings and 64 is the lowest and seems to work best.
The higher the ISO the blurrier the pic at least in my experience.
EDIT: Some other settings, sharpness is set to hard, photometry is set to spot, AF mode is center and AE BKT EV STEPS IS +/- 1/3 >>
The higher the ISO the faster the exposure so it should not be blurry. The blurriness may come from an open aperture and lack of depth of field.
Closing the aperture (higher number) means a slower shutter. Iw ouldn't go much below f/5.6. Below that and you won't have enough depth of field to cover the coin and also the lens will tend be not as sharp.
shutter speed is whatever gives you the best exposure. If slow, you need to make sure the camera is well secured. You can improve the shutter speed with more light.
you will have to add sharpening with software
RAW (vs jpg) is not sharpened by the camera
That doesn't mean you are doctoring your photo, just applying the sharpening which is needed for a RAW photo in order to resemble the actual coin
If you are shooting jpg then it may not be necessary as the camera is doing it for you
Also adjustments done post camera, called post processing, is not like doctoring coins, it is essential in order to get an accurate photo
of course you DO NOT want to oversharpen, it will look it.
Aperature diameter controls how much light passes thru the lens at one time; lower f stop number = wider aperature opening, more light and less depth of field in focus.
depth of field is how deep the focus is maintained from the point of focus. higher f stop, more of the image in focus. a lower f stop number results in a larger aperature opening for light to enter, thus allowing more light to pass thru the lens..
For every shutter speed there is a correct corresponding aperature setting that will result in a proper exposure. Improper exposures are either under exposed (not enough light) or over exposed. Faster shutter speed requires lower f stop number (less depth of field). Increasing time lens is open (slower shutter speed) requires narrower aperature setting (higher f stop setting). Goal is to allow the proper amount of light to enter lens using the proper combination of how long (speed) and how much (aperature).
With coins, motion is not a concern, depth of field is. Choose a higher F stop number (smaller aperature opening/greater depth of field) and the correct, corresponding shutter speed. Auto cameras will select matching combinations. Aperature priority mode allows one to choose f stop (aperature opening diameter) and automatically sets correct shutter speed, just the opposite with shutter speed priority mode.
shutter speed and aperature are tools of the photographer. He can freeze a race car in motion with a fast shutter speed or have only the single point he focuses on be in focus with a low numbered f stop (aperature setting). The creative photographer can successfully bend these rules to create a striking image.
Since modern cameras take care of the settings, for the coin photographer lighting is the toughest, and one of the most important tools to master. ISO is a setting that was used in the old "film" days to set the camera's light meter to the chosen film's "speed." With an auto camera the less experienced photographer should leave it at one setting and first learn to use speed and apertature settings to obtain desired results. ISO basically sets the base setting from which speed and aperature settings are calculated to result in a proper exposure.
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Image is raw, feel free to juice it up, sharpen, etc. Tried the tools on FB, maybe me eyes are playin tricks on me, hours staring at the monitor.
Night all.
Scott
I almost get very close to what I want with the above, and some minor brightness tweaking in PhotoShop takes care of the rest.
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<< <i>Another attempt a 3rd light added, ss 1/350, f-stop11.0, ISO 200.
Image is raw, feel free to juice it up, sharpen, etc. Tried the tools on FB, maybe me eyes are playin tricks on me, hours staring at the monitor.
Night all.
Scott
increased the sharpening and exposure and contrast, tweaked the while balance
Raw I mean unedited, downloaded from the cam to my machine, then uploaded to PB, with no editing, just cropped out.
RAW photos, note usually all caps,
A camera raw image file contains minimally processed data from the image sensor of either a digital camera, image scanner, or motion picture film scanner. Raw files are so named because they are not yet processed and therefore are not ready to be printed or edited with a bitmap graphics editor. Normally, the image is processed by a raw converter in a wide-gamut internal colorspace where precise adjustments can be made before conversion to a "positive" file format such as TIFF or JPEG for storage, printing, or further manipulation, which often encodes the image in a device-dependent colorspace. There are dozens if not hundreds of raw formats in use by different models of digital equipment (like cameras or film scanners).[1]
Raw image files are sometimes called digital negatives, as they fulfill the same role as negatives in film photography: that is, the negative is not directly usable as an image, but has all of the information needed to create an image. Likewise, the process of converting a raw image file into a viewable format is sometimes called developing a raw image, by analogy with the film development process used to convert photographic film into viewable prints. The selection of the final choice of image rendering is part of the process of white balancing and color grading.
Like a photographic negative, a raw digital image may have a wider dynamic range or color gamut than the eventual final image format, and it preserves most of the information of the captured image. The purpose of raw image formats is to save, with minimum loss of information, data obtained from the sensor, and the conditions surrounding the capturing of the image (the metadata).
Does your camera have an "Aperture Priority" mode? If so, then you can let the camera control your shutter speed while fixing the aperture for sharpness and depth of field. That said, cameras in automatic exposure mode (or Aperture Priority) push highlights to max, so you may benefit from manually setting the shutter speed to avoid blown-out highlights. It's usually better to slightly under-expose and correct later than to over-expose and lose highlights.
http://macrocoins.com
Yes it does, and will use this mode and let the cam choose the correct SS.
Thank you all for the valuable input,
Scott
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
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<< <i>There are hundreds, if not thousands, of websites that explain basic photography. You should "buy the book before the coin" and read some of it. >>
Photography is not so easy to understand from books. It's one of those activities you need to "learn by doing". Formulas and explanations of archaic and often inconsistent terms don't help a beginner much. Even specialty books like Goodman's won't make you an expert without a lot of practice. And while a book may say that "faster shutter speeds reduce the exposure", until you test it out like the OP did it is hard to see what's really going on. In the old days, "learning by doing" meant shooting film, developing it, then trying to remember what you did for each shot! With digital, you can get instant feedback on your shots and the learning process is much quicker. Plus there are a multitude of folks on a multitude of groups and forums willing to give advice and constructive criticism to help newbies along.
http://macrocoins.com
<< <i>
<< <i>There are hundreds, if not thousands, of websites that explain basic photography. You should "buy the book before the coin" and read some of it. >>
Photography is not so easy to understand from books. It's one of those activities you need to "learn by doing". Formulas and explanations of archaic and often inconsistent terms don't help a beginner much. >>
I disagree. Basic understanding about light control through shutter speed, aperture, and sensor sensitivity can be easily learned from reading a few paragraphs about it. If you lack this basic understanding - you're wasting a lot of time that could be spent perfecting your technique.
8 Reales Madness Collection
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>There are hundreds, if not thousands, of websites that explain basic photography. You should "buy the book before the coin" and read some of it. >>
Photography is not so easy to understand from books. It's one of those activities you need to "learn by doing". Formulas and explanations of archaic and often inconsistent terms don't help a beginner much. >>
I disagree. Basic understanding about light control through shutter speed, aperture, and sensor sensitivity can be easily learned from reading a few paragraphs about it. If you lack this basic understanding - you're wasting a lot of time that could be spent perfecting your technique. >>
hmm...I find it is difficult to get the concepts across to folks even when explaining it to them, in person, with diagrams, and after they've already read the textbook. But after some experimentation and back/forth questioning, they start to understand the tradeoffs and terminology. Photography seems to be harder for folks to learn than other disciplines, possibly because it is a blending of physics and art. If it was purely physics, 95% of the folks would be gone after the first set of equations for effective aperture is written on the board. If it was purely art, a different 95% would be gone after the first discussions of tonality and bokeh. But combine the two dimensions and you get a broader audience, yet the multi-dimensional concepts seem not as easy to understand and remember.
http://macrocoins.com
I'm well aware of this, thank you for taking the time to reply. I've read plenty but trial n error and discussing it with my peers seems more helpful.
EDIT: <<Maybe darken the 1/320 picture a tiny bit (theoretically better than lightening the 1/400 picture, because lightening a dark picture raises the noise floor).>>
Thanks for the info, wasn't sure if it was better to brighten or to darken, now I know.
1/350, f-stop7, ISO 64. A bit of contrast and that's it. I'm happy with the light distribution, no real ugly bright spots, it works for me. Could it be better? I'm sure it can, it's the best I can produce with my P&S Fuji S3280.
No Way Out: Stimulus and Money Printing Are the Only Path Left
Yes, standard and soft. Soft makes the pic smooth, not sure if that's a good term though.
Photometry is set to spot and AF mode is center. The supplied manual doesn't go into any kind of detail about these modes.
Thanks DerryB, superb, I'll take that
Thanks again everyone for all the valuable input.
Scott