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Need help determining value of relative's sports cards collection

Hello everyone! I am new to the forums and I have thousands of baseball, basketball, football, and even some hockey cards. I have been put in charge of selling them and I need a little help determining whether or not they are worth grading or just selling raw. I just wanted to post a few scans to see what you guys thought and whether or not I should post more.

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I apologize for the scans, like I said, I am new to this

Comments

  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 31,155 ✭✭✭✭✭
    No offense to you but those cards are not even worth the money spent on the electricity it took to post your message
  • Too bad your Frank Thomas doesn't have the name blacked out. It would be worth a million dollars
  • AricAric Posts: 757 ✭✭
    I don't see anything worth grading but the Cousy auto goes for around $30 raw and 1993 Topps Black Gold A/B Winner goes for about $15 raw.
  • NickMNickM Posts: 4,895 ✭✭✭
    For cards after around 1980, about the only time it's worth grading something that won't get at least a PSA 9 (MINT) is in the case of a very important, widely counterfeited card (e.g., Gretzky rookie or Jordan rookie). Look at the PSA grading standards and large pictures on eBay of PSA 9s and 10s to figure out what the cards should look like (there should be essentially no corner or edge wear).

    Even among cards that pass that qualification, other than a few highly popular and collectible sets (e.g., 1993 Finest baseball refractors), most cards are not worth grading even in PSA 10 if you're just planning on selling them. Key rarities, top rookies, and a few highly collected HOFers and sure HOFers are the exceptions.

    Even among those, only the best ones of a player's rookie cards are normally worth grading - Brett Favre's 1991 Stadium Club is, but his 1991 Classic isn't; Frank Thomas's 1990 Leaf is, but his 1990 Topps (unless it's the rare no name on front variation) isn't.

    Your Brodeur would be if it could have gotten a PSA 9 or 10, but with those corners, you'd be lucky to get a PSA 7. The LeBron looks to have corner issues (top right) that would take it to a PSA 8 or below, which is not worth grading. I can't see the corners well enough on the Jeter to tell - but if you only have a small number of cards to send in, that one becomes unprofitable even in PSA 9.

    Grading generally doesn't add value on non-rookie cards like autographs or game-used, even if they're PSA 9s or PSA 10s.

    Nick
    image
    Reap the whirlwind.

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  • Thank you for the feedback, much better than the first two posts. I know the Jeter card is not the ideal rookie card, but is it still not worth grading?
  • DDaniel83DDaniel83 Posts: 203 ✭✭
    No, it's not worth grading.----be very cautious to learn PSA's grading standards located on their website before sending anything in for grading. When I first started collecting about a year ago I sent in a bunch of cards I felt would grade well and they came back all 6's and 7's and these were cards that would only be profitable if they came back as 9's or 10's. Check EBay for what the cards sell for in grades you think you might achieve, then do the math--- PSA grading costs, shipping, insurance, etc. and see if you would come out ahead even in worst case scenario---if not save your $
  • Honestly man... pop em on Ebay for .99 and let em ride for 7 days. End your listing on Sunday night. PSA isn't worth the time and money for the cards you posted.

    Good luck with the sale.
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 31,155 ✭✭✭✭✭
  • jmmiller777jmmiller777 Posts: 1,324 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Honestly man... pop em on Ebay for .99 and let em ride for 7 days. End your listing on Sunday night. PSA isn't worth the time and money for the cards you posted.

    Good luck with the sale. >>



    Nuff said, take the advice. You might want to sell in lots just to save you time.
    CURRENT PROJECTS IN WORK:
    To be honest, no direction, but...
    1966-69 Topps EX+
    1975 minis NrMt Kelloggs PSA 9
    All Topps Heritage-Master Sets
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