1956 Topps - White Back or Grey Back?

Hi - Curious to hear opinions on building a 1956 topps set. I'm considering finally venturing on this quest - and would prefer to build a base set first before expanding it to variations.

From perspective of visual preference as well as scarcity, what are opinions on acquiring white backs or grey backs in a base set. I am planning to build the set as PSA 7 (or higher if economics allowed).

Thanks for the input.

Comments

  • SidePocketSidePocket Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭
    I just finished building the set and I actually like having both white and grey backs in it. It's part of the uniqueness of the way Topps printed cards back then. Either way good luck with the set, it's a great choice!
  • PowderedH2OPowderedH2O Posts: 2,472 ✭✭
    I agree. The mix makes it interesting.
    Successful dealings with shootybabitt, LarryP, Doctor K, thedutymon, billsgridirongreats, fattymacs, shagrotn77, pclpads, JMDVM, gumbyfan, itzagoner, rexvos, al032184, gregm13, californiacards3, mccardguy1, BigDaddyBowman, bigreddog, bobbyw8469, burke23, detroitfan2, drewsef, jeff8877, markmac, Goldlabels, swartz1, blee1, EarlsWorld, gseaman25, kcballboy, jimrad, leadoff4, weinhold, Mphilking, milbroco, msassin, meteoriteguy, rbeaton and gameusedhoop.
  • Some who dabble exclusively in the 56 set can probably touch on scarcity of one vs. the other and effect on pricing, but in my experience it is minimal. I've seen discussion of premiums for one vs. the other in both series, but I really don't think it to be significant in either.

    As far as appearance, I can't say I have ever noticed the front of the cards looking different despite the different stocks used.

    The 56's are great and really accessible price-wise in your goal of PSA 7. Even PSA 5's and 6's of these suckers present really nicely and are extremely accessible from the standpoint of pricing (see a couple of my faves below -- the cards look much better in person, my scanner is a POS).

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  • PowderedH2OPowderedH2O Posts: 2,472 ✭✭
    If you'd like some good information and discussion on the 56's, I recommend this thread: 1956
    Successful dealings with shootybabitt, LarryP, Doctor K, thedutymon, billsgridirongreats, fattymacs, shagrotn77, pclpads, JMDVM, gumbyfan, itzagoner, rexvos, al032184, gregm13, californiacards3, mccardguy1, BigDaddyBowman, bigreddog, bobbyw8469, burke23, detroitfan2, drewsef, jeff8877, markmac, Goldlabels, swartz1, blee1, EarlsWorld, gseaman25, kcballboy, jimrad, leadoff4, weinhold, Mphilking, milbroco, msassin, meteoriteguy, rbeaton and gameusedhoop.
  • White backs are basically impossible from 101-180, and even when you can find them they are ridiculously expensive. Spot check a couple card numbers on EBay and you'll see what I mean.

    Unless you have a lot- and I mean a LOT- of money to spend on this set, don't worry about the back color. Finding nice, centered NM cards will be more than challenging enough.
    'Sir, I realize it's been difficult for you to sleep at night without your EX/MT 1977 Topps Tom Seaver, but I swear to you that you'll get it safe and sound.'
    -CDs Nuts, 1/20/14

    *1956 Topps baseball- 97.4% complete, 7.24 GPA
    *Clemente basic set: 85.0% complete, 7.89 GPA
  • JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 3,401 ✭✭✭


    << <i>White backs are basically impossible from 101-180, and even when you can find them they are ridiculously expensive. Spot check a couple card numbers on EBay and you'll see what I mean.

    Unless you have a lot- and I mean a LOT- of money to spend on this set, don't worry about the back color. Finding nice, centered NM cards will be more than challenging enough. >>



    +1
    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
  • Thanks for the scans and the advice
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