Just cracked open a really sharp 1984 Topps USFL Set....
corvette1340
Posts: 3,384 ✭✭✭
This is the first one of these I've ever had and have been told that the centering would be either really good over the entire set or really bad so it was a bit of a gamble, but it was centered beautifully for the most part. It was still factory sealed and the box had been preserved really well with very little wear therefore the corners were almost all razor sharp.
The notorious chipping on the back was minimal as well. The only disappointing thing about the set was that the Steve Young card was a bit off center left to right, but only a handful were centered like that. It's still a $120 card in 8 and it's razor sharp other than the centering. I'll be subbing most of these plus around 20-25 more commons that are dead centered with shots at 10 or low pop 9's.
The notorious chipping on the back was minimal as well. The only disappointing thing about the set was that the Steve Young card was a bit off center left to right, but only a handful were centered like that. It's still a $120 card in 8 and it's razor sharp other than the centering. I'll be subbing most of these plus around 20-25 more commons that are dead centered with shots at 10 or low pop 9's.
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Comments
<< <i>Oustanding! Love this set. I was hoping you were going to write I am keeping the Young, Kelly and White and selling the rest raw. I really want another set as I sold mine after I graded the three for my HOF Rookie sets. >>
I will probably sell all of the raw ones that I don't grade as one lot. They are all super sharp with lots of 8's and 9's.
<< <i>Tommy, what's the going price for a factory set? >>
I think I got this one for a pretty good deal, $298. In the research I've done, the key is being able to trust that it's truly unsearched and still factory sealed. And that the box isn't beat up hurting the corners. A solid NM/MT set should run around $250-$300.
I think these are way undervalued if you can get a nice one still factory sealed because the big 4 cards should pay for the entire set. Of course, if this one would have had bad centering throughout then I might be singing a different tune.
<< <i>Only sub the "commons" if they have a shot at a 10. Sub the Young and ask for no qualifiers. Should get at least a PSA 7 which would cover about 1/3rd of what you paid for the set. The Reggie may cover the rest. >>
Thanks Alt. When I ship them out to GIA, should I just ban them all together in a rubber band and mark "grade these" on the outside of the bag?
<< <i>
<< <i>Only sub the "commons" if they have a shot at a 10. Sub the Young and ask for no qualifiers. Should get at least a PSA 7 which would cover about 1/3rd of what you paid for the set. The Reggie may cover the rest. >>
Thanks Alt. When I ship them out to GIA, should I just ban them all together in a rubber band and mark "grade these" on the outside of the bag? >>
First, I am not an alt.
B: I tried to give you a legitimate response without being a douche and you went all douchey.
4: I would probably use CS1s instead of rubber bands. CEOs like CS1s instead of rubbers
Tommy must be finding sparkly diamonds in those little boxes.
<< <i>GIA, GAI...same difference for the purpose of my sarcastic reply to alt boy. Guy says he's not an alt, yet knows about a thread of mine from over 2 years ago that was removed, lol. >>
Just because it was removed doesn't mean it wasn't saved as a screenshot on other card forums for entertainment and references.