New NikonD5100 w/len sigma macro advice needed( also better photos of the 1872 proof $)
michiganboy
Posts: 1,247 ✭✭✭
So I tried some photos but its still not easy even with better equipment. Tell me what you think, and if any one is familiar with camera tips would greatly be appreciated.
Positive BST transactions:michaeldixon,nibanny,
type2,CCHunter.
type2,CCHunter.
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type2,CCHunter.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
type2,CCHunter.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
type2,CCHunter.
1. are you using auto focus or manual? the coin shouldn't be blurry since it doesn't appear to be tilted.
2. if you are going for 1:1 or 1:2 you may want to do wide weighting not center weighting. it may be to the left of the +/- button
3. does your 5100 have the +/- by the off/on button? if so, hold it and turn that knob thing that is on the side of the lcd screen at the top right. rotate it and it should be like 3.0 to .5. you can see the number if you use live-view in the bottom right corner
4. general f/stop is recommended for general images in the 8.0 range plus or minus 2.
5. i don't spend too much time with the iso setting and do pretty well. once you get all that other stuff figured out, just change the iso and look at the results, then you will know where you should set it.
6. a lot of people recommend doing the white balance with a sheet of paper but is a little more complex process.
edited to add: 7. the main camera knob which has M-A-S-P and more i recommend setting to "P" to get you started.
8. do you have a remote? this prevents you touching the camera while shooting and well worth the $10-30 one will cost as well as an a/c adapter so batteries don't die in the middle of a session.
9.
you are very close to great images, some minor fine tuning and you are in business. most of what i mentioned is basic and takes a few seconds to adjust once you know how to do it.
.
****i'll be adding some great images for your camera so check back within the next 15 minutes
B
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>.
1. are you using auto focus or manual? the coin shouldn't be blurry since it doesn't appear to be tilted.
2. if you are going for 1:1 or 1:2 you may want to do wide weighting not center weighting. it may be to the left of the +/- button
3. does your 5100 have the +/- by the off/on button? if so, hold it and turn that knob thing that is on the side of the lcd screen at the top right. rotate it and it should be like 3.0 to .5. you can see the number if you use live-view in the bottom right corner
4. general f/stop is recommended for general images in the 8.0 range plus or minus 2.
5. i don't spend too much time with the iso setting and do pretty well. once you get all that other stuff figured out, just change the iso and look at the results, then you will know where you should set it.
6. a lot of people recommend doing the white balance with a sheet of paper but is a little more complex process.
edited to add: 7. the main camera knob which has M-A-S-P and more i recommend setting to "P" to get you started.
8. do you have a remote? this prevents you touching the camera while shooting and well worth the $10-30 one will cost as well as an a/c adapter so batteries don't die in the middle of a session.
9.
you are very close to great images, some minor fine tuning and you are in business. most of what i mentioned is basic and takes a few seconds to adjust once you know how to do it.
.
****i'll be adding some great images for your camera so check back within the next 15 minutes >>
I own a D3100 and it's pretty nice. If the D5100 is anything like it (I'm guessing it's more higher end than mine) I can help a bit. The quotes above are a very good start:
6: You can just get one of those gray cardboard thingys and take a shot of it in the manual white balance mode. It's pretty easy actually. However, you should wait awhile after you turn on your lights as they did change as they warm up.
8: Mine has a delay setting...that should be fine. I never get "blur". As to focus, I have a 105mm Tokina macro lens that can't be auto focused so I have to use manual. Good tip on #2 above.
IMO, the most important things for a good photo are the lighting and getting a copy stand (or equivalent). I think that most cameras are probably good enough in many cases. However, you seem to have a very nice one so that is covered pretty well.
jom
EDIT to add: Read the manual!!!
use aperature priority (A) at f 8
use iso 100 or 200
the camera will set the shutter speed
be sure you are using a copy stand or tripod
use a delayed release so pushing the button will not cause vibration
use matrix metering
if it is too bright, overexposed like the first one, then dial in negative exposure compensation which will lower the shutter until you are happy (thats the +/- button on the top which you work with the dial
use manual focus
Exposure compensation referred to in a previous posting is the "brightness" button (from the pics also posted previously) behind the shutter release.
MJ
Fellas, leave the tight pants to the ladies. If I can count the coins in your pockets you better use them to call a tailor. Stay thirsty my friends......
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>When I put it in live view it won't autofocus with the sigma 150mm macro lens is this normal or did I also get a broken lens from my BST deal? Also I got the IH cent and I can't get any good shots of it, I tried shooting a few through the salb and all the slab scratches so up, like I said its still hard >>
Manual focus and you should be able to focus past the scratches. I have had better luck with the viewfinder compared to live view for focusing.
Edited to add *I also don't have a tripod or copy stand as of yet and holding the camera by hand I get shaky that actual why I'm calling it a day already with no new photos worth uploading. That and I got concerned then sigma lens had something wrong with it, but now I'm seeing online someone said the lens is older then the camera model and would have to be updated by being flashed to fully function with camera properly.
type2,CCHunter.
one thing i have noticed is that many features do not work together and there are a LOT of options so once you get to a spot that works well do not deviate until your knowledge and comfort increase
i don't know if your camera has the gears or motor or whatever so that the camera may autofocus the lens. i use my remote by gently depressing the button until focused and then fully depress shoots
i am guessing the shutter button on the camera is also pressure sensitive so give that a try if you haven't.
it may or may not make you feel better but i've spent hundreds of hours watching videos, reading blogs and taken thousands of images about/with this camera and i still have a LOT to learn about it
but my comfort level is considerably higher than it was.
my d90 will autofocus in live view when i use it, sometimes i mf and sometimes af. is your af/mf button on the left front side. i call the viewfinder side the back side.
have you tried rotating the coin? this will hide some things and make others visible.
paint.net has an option to quickly rotate images so don't concern yourself with having them straight when shooting.
.
<< <i>Yeah the manual focus works fine i n lIve view I was just wondering why it won't autofocus in live view with the sigma lens.
Edited to add *I also don't have a tripod or copy stand as of yet and holding the camera by hand I get shaky that actual why I'm calling it a day already with no new photos worth uploading. That and I got concerned then sigma lens had something wrong with it, but now I'm seeing online someone said the lens is older then the camera model and would have to be updated by being flashed to fully function with camera properly. >>
I am starting over like you are... moving from the point and shoot to DSLR. I'm going to pick up the Nikon D5100 and pair it with a 105mm macro lens (as of today).
A stand makes a huge difference; I cannot imaging taking coin photos holding the camera. Get a stand and you will notice a big improvement. And as mentioned, lighting is key too. There is so much involved in coin photography, but its not impossible. Keep at it.
Focus is better...particularly on the reverse. Obverse needs work.
Lance.
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>use manual white balance
use aperature priority (A) at f 8
use iso 100 or 200
the camera will set the shutter speed
be sure you are using a copy stand or tripod
use a delayed release so pushing the button will not cause vibration
use matrix metering
if it is too bright, overexposed like the first one, then dial in negative exposure compensation which will lower the shutter until you are happy (thats the +/- button on the top which you work with the dial
use manual focus >>
Great suggestions above.
I would modify one (I prefer center weighted metering over matrix), and add another (take your images in RAW and post-process from there).
Fair warning, however, is that toned proofs are not the recommended coins for cutting one's teeth in coin photography.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
The photo pro at my shop told me to use center weighted which works well.
He also told me to use manual focus. He calls it "critical focus". What he means is to set the camera on the tripod, use the LV, zoom way up with the + button and focus manually, then zoom back. This will provide very sharp focus.
He also told me to due a manual white balance with a gray card, which is easy with my Nikon 7000 and is likely easy with your D500.
Finally, he showed me a great technique where he takes a piece of black construction paper and moves it about around the coin off to the side. At some point the contrast becomes just perfect and that's where he shoots.
Using the above, along with what's already mentioned (i.e., shooting with a timer, f8, etc.) the results have been great.
I use a Nikkolr 60mm Marco.
<< <i>The photo pro at my shop told me to use center weighted which works well. >>
centered is nice but can leave slight blur around the edges
<< <i>He also told me to use manual focus. use the LV, zoom way up with the + button and focus manually, then zoom back. >>
i love this technique. no need to zoom back out with the +/-. just shoot and it will adjust automatically when the shutter closes
<< <i>He also told me to do a manual white balance with a gray card, which is easy with my Nikon 7000 and is likely easy with your D500. >>
i still have yet to use a gray card, but still get great results, but need to do this one day.
<< <i>Finally, he showed me a great technique where he takes a piece of black construction paper and moves it about around the coin off to the side. At some point the contrast becomes just perfect and that's where he shoots. >>
i have noticed this when my hand is still in frame and then my hand moves out. the contrast does change.
<< <i>Using the above, along with what's already mentioned (i.e., shooting with a timer, f8, etc.) the results have been great. >>
i agree!