Has anyone ever bought BGS cards only to...
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crack them open and resubmit to PSA?
Its pretty much a fact that cards graded by BGS sell lower than PSA so why not buy BGS graded cards and send them to PSA to get an equal grade or possibly higher.
Too risky or not worth the time and effort?
Thoughts?
Its pretty much a fact that cards graded by BGS sell lower than PSA so why not buy BGS graded cards and send them to PSA to get an equal grade or possibly higher.
Too risky or not worth the time and effort?
Thoughts?
0
Comments
I have had some success but lost money trying in most cases. My cross rate is less then 40%.
My worst was in a recent submission where the grade came back 3.5 points lower on a very expensive card. It will be in the mail today and I am anxious to see it in hand.
I have actually had a few cards bump in grade too but the vast majority come back 1 to 1.5 points lower and that is why they sell for so much less.
Card buyers have already tried and figured out what a real gamble it is.
Currently collecting 1934 Butterfinger, 1969 Nabisco, 1991 Topps Desert Shield (in PSA 9 or 10), and 1990 Donruss Learning Series (in PSA 10).
Working on the following: 1970 Baseball PSA, 1970-1976 Raw, World Series Subsets PSA, 1969 Expansion Teams PSA, Fleer World Series Sets, Texas Rangers Topps Run 1972-1989
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1 - I have some cards graded from BGS but now I want them graded by PSA to match the majority of my other graded cards.
2 - I didnt think it was a bad idea initially untill I started reading that the cross over rate is less than 40% based on past experiences.
Im sending some over for grading that I recently cracked open myself (thanks to dpecks video) and Im submitting for cross over. Now Im a bit nervous but still confident.
Cards are:
1971 Topps Hank Aaron (BGS 8)
1968 Topps Roger Maris (BGS 8.5)
1984 Fleer Update Roger Clemens (BGS 9)
BTW - Is it just me or has anyone noticed that Clemens 84 Update (psa 9's) has been selling much higher since he was found not guilty.
For example the 71 Aaron I would think would have a much harder time crossing then the 1984 Clemens.
BGS has some very nice modern cards in their holders and the 84 Clemens doesn't have any major defects other then centering and corners so I would think you would be much safer with that type of card.
The 1971 Topps on the other hand is an extremely condition sensitive set and PSA tends to be much more difficult on cards like that and why they sell for such a premium.
I used to be much more willing to buy BGS cards and became much more leary after having poor success. There are certain cards from the sets I collect that your odds are much greater of a cross. The tougher cards from the set the chances go down dramatically.
I do not regret my BGS purchases because there have been a few cards that helped my sets and when you are trying to seriously advance your collection you have to be willing to take some bumps along the way.
Just pick out a good BVG card.
Dave
When I do it, at least from my experience, I've found it particularly important to focus on the BGS centering and corners sub grades. A BGS 9.5, with subgrades of 9 on either of those... have come back a PSA 8, 8.5 or 9 on the few I did early in my crack & sub trials. I never got a 10 when the centering or corners subgrade(s) wasn't 9.5 or 10.
My best crack and sub was a BGS 8.5... that had subgrades of 9.5 centering, 9.5 corners, 9 edges & 8 surface... it got a PSA 10!!!
I've also had several BGS 9's come back PSA 10, and never worse than PSA 9 once I figured out to focus on the subgrades... although, you really have to focus in on the centering as I find BGS to be extremely favorable/liberal on that subgrade. I've seen way too many high grade BGS cards with 9 and 9.5 centering subgrades that were, what I'd consider, not centered well enough to warrant such a subgrade.
As for buying just to cross, I bought a BGS 9 Rickey Henderson rookie that looked like a PSA 10 to me. Subbed it twice to PSA and got an 8 both times. Sold it for half of what I originally paid for it.
James
I bought this card with a full expectation that this would grade at least a PSA 8 and sell for a premium with this awesome centering. This has tremendous eye appeal and is a beautiful card.
Beckett missed something when they graded it. The dreaded tiny surface wrinkle.
The good news is I can crack this out and at some point get it signed by Hogan and this will make an awesome signed card.
The bad news is this card is the best looking PSA 5 Hulk Hogan on the planet.
I, too, have had little luck doing this. But instead of getting it reslabbed I ask for a minimum grade. I had a couple BGS 9 1986 Topps Steve Youngs I got for about 100 bucks each. Knowing the PSA 9's were going for $250-$300 I took a shot and resubmitted to PSA and asking for the new holder only if it's a 9 or better. They both came back in the same BGS Holder and I ended up losing a bit after reselling them
TheClockworkAngelCollection
I'm very weary of any cards graded 9.5 by BGS that have 9 sub grades for corners. Also, I'm perplexed by PSA's stance on centering. I've seen some PSA 10's that are like WTF.
Bernie Kosar collector
This wrinkle is so small it is only barely notable under super bright light.
I had another card in my sub that I knew would come back a PSA 5 but was fine with that as it is mint on the front and has an easily seen wrinkle at the top of the back of the card and just wanted it in a PSA holder.
In a case like the Hogan I think downgrading a card with mint qualities to an EX grade is extreme but those are the rules and that is what makes playing the graded card game so tough.
What really stinks is this is the best centered Hogan I own and had really high hopes for the grade. As I said before this is going to get signed one day and I will make my money back on it for sure.