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Question Regarding Declared Value

Question: If you send a submission in under the monthly special but your declared value for one of the items exceeds the special maximum amount for that item, will PSA just charge the difference between the special item submission rate and the normal rate for that one item in that one sub?


Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.

Comments

  • thenavarrothenavarro Posts: 7,497 ✭✭✭
    Sometimes they will, and sometimes they will require you to in effect have two submissions. One for the special, and one for the stuff that doesn't fit, and then they will charge you for two separate shipping/handling charges as well as the price difference for the one that didn't fit.

    I think a lot of it depends on how big your order is and what rep is helping you.

    Mike
    Buying US Presidential autographs
  • OAKESY25OAKESY25 Posts: 4,726 ✭✭✭
    I just do an avg of all.. I don't itemize.. if it is a $100 limit..
    and I have 30 cards.. I do $3000 value
  • bkingbking Posts: 3,095 ✭✭


    << <i>I just do an avg of all.. I don't itemize.. if it is a $100 limit..
    and I have 30 cards.. I do $3000 value >>



    This.. At the end of the day, declared value is just about insurance. The likelihood of one card going AWOL is pretty low, so setting the values like you do is a pretty good plan. The only adjustment I make is to fine-tune my total declared value so as not to cross over into a higher bracket unless necessary.
    ----------------------
    Working on the following: 1970 Baseball PSA, 1970-1976 Raw, World Series Subsets PSA, 1969 Expansion Teams PSA, Fleer World Series Sets, Texas Rangers Topps Run 1972-1989
    ----------------------

    Successful deals to date: thedudeabides,gameusedhoop,golfcollector,tigerdean,treetop,bkritz, CapeMOGuy,WeekendHacker,jeff8877,backbidder,Salinas,milbroco,bbuckner22,VitoCo1972,ddfamf,gemint,K,fatty macs,waltersobchak,dboneesq


  • << <i>

    << <i>I just do an avg of all.. I don't itemize.. if it is a $100 limit..
    and I have 30 cards.. I do $3000 value >>



    This.. At the end of the day, declared value is just about insurance. The likelihood of one card going AWOL is pretty low, so setting the values like you do is a pretty good plan. The only adjustment I make is to fine-tune my total declared value so as not to cross over into a higher bracket unless necessary. >>



    I do the exact same thing to avoid the next bracket if I can. And I agree I don't list each one just a blanket number.
    Miconelegacy Auctions
    "Live everyday, don't throw it away"
  • grote15grote15 Posts: 29,748 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks for the responses, fellas! I never knew you could provide a sum total for declared value instead of listing it item by item. Thanks for the info!


    Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    That only works if you are not trying to slip a Koufax, Clemente or Mantle card in.


    Good for you.
  • OAKESY25OAKESY25 Posts: 4,726 ✭✭✭
    That only works if you are not trying to slip a Koufax, Clemente or Mantle card in.


    NEGATORY.. my subs are filled with those 3 every time
  • Keep in mind that if a higher dollar card is damaged in the grading process you will only recieve the declared value for that card.
    Don't skimp and take chances with higher value cards.

    John

    My Unisquare Online Auction Store
  • bkingbking Posts: 3,095 ✭✭


    << <i>Keep in mind that if a higher dollar card is damaged in the grading process you will only recieve the declared value for that card.
    Don't skimp and take chances with higher value cards.

    John

    My Unisquare Online Auction Store >>



    yeah, I would try and slip a super-high dollar card in a $100 max submission, but subbing a card that might top out at $150 wouldn't worry me. I tend to cap out the best cards at $100 on the form, then pad the others a little based on the highest grade they could possibly land. Again, as long as it doesn't cause you to cross over into a higher shipping bracket, there's no harm that I can see.
    ----------------------
    Working on the following: 1970 Baseball PSA, 1970-1976 Raw, World Series Subsets PSA, 1969 Expansion Teams PSA, Fleer World Series Sets, Texas Rangers Topps Run 1972-1989
    ----------------------

    Successful deals to date: thedudeabides,gameusedhoop,golfcollector,tigerdean,treetop,bkritz, CapeMOGuy,WeekendHacker,jeff8877,backbidder,Salinas,milbroco,bbuckner22,VitoCo1972,ddfamf,gemint,K,fatty macs,waltersobchak,dboneesq
  • cardbendercardbender Posts: 1,831 ✭✭


    << <i>I just do an avg of all.. I don't itemize.. if it is a $100 limit..
    and I have 30 cards.. I do $3000 value >>



    That's a good idea and something I didn't think was allowed.

    What happens if you sub 100 cards at a bulk special (under $100 value)
    and you put down the total value of all the cards at $4000 or $40 per card,
    then a $100 card, say a '69 Unitas that should grade an 8, get's damaged?
    Does PSA then say since you didn't itemize your Unitas it's only worth the
    average of your sub. or only $40? Or does PSA give you the SMR value of the card
    which is much more than $40?

    I haven't had a card damaged during grading in over 10 years, but I think
    this is the reason I always itemize the cards on my subs.

    Although I do like your total value system better.
  • OAKESY25OAKESY25 Posts: 4,726 ✭✭✭
    say a '69 Unitas that should grade an 8, get's damaged?
    Does PSA then say since you didn't itemize your Unitas it's only worth the
    average of your sub. or only $40?


    I have no idea and I think it would be awfully hard to prove that psa damaged your card
    unless they come right out and say it. I have never had a card damaged either... maybe one that had a corner ding or something
    that I didn't recall. My value is for insurance on the return trip in the event of loss or damage in shipping.
    Once it is at psa I expect them to know how to treat the card professionally and so far haven't been let down.

    edit to add.. I generally insure for the max allowed under a sub... if I sent in 100 cards under the $100 value.. I would likely choose
    the insurance value in that range.. $10,000 since I would be paid the same to ship either way.. might as well get the max value

    or in your case saying the value is $40 per = $4000 but the insurance is the same to $5000 so why not claim $5k.. ultimately you will
    have to prove the valuables worth anyway. ( I would imagine )
  • cardbendercardbender Posts: 1,831 ✭✭
    You've been lucky then... I think I used the '69 Unitas as
    an example above because back in 2000 or so I submitted
    one from vending that was a lock 8 at least. When I got the card back
    it was a PSA 4. What I think happened was during the sealing
    process the card must have moved and the card got misaligned
    and the machine sealed the holder right onto the bottom edge.

    Whoever was running the sealing machine must have spotted it,
    because it was re-graded and sent back in the PSA holder as normal.
    Even though the bottom surface indent could only be caused be
    their sealing machine. So much for quality control under their old regime.

    This type of sealing mishap happened twice to me. It also happened
    on a '78 Molitor rookie card.

    I've had corners flipped up several times too during the grading process.
    Of course this is from well over 15,000 cards I've sent it over the years,
    so the actual percentage getting damaged is less than .01% .
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    Bob what year Mantle, Koufax and Clemente are we talking about?

    I should have been more clear, I was implying that one shouldn't slip in

    cards valued over 500.00 in that matter. Cards like 1953 Mantle, 56-59 Koufax

    and early Clemente's.
    Good for you.
  • bkingbking Posts: 3,095 ✭✭


    << <i>Bob what year Mantle, Koufax and Clemente are we talking about?

    I should have been more clear, I was implying that one shouldn't slip in

    cards valued over 500.00 in that matter. Cards like 1953 Mantle, 56-59 Koufax

    and early Clemente's. >>



    To clarify, I meant that I WOULDN'T try to slip in a high$ card. I'd push the envelope up MAYBE s high as $150, but that's it.
    ----------------------
    Working on the following: 1970 Baseball PSA, 1970-1976 Raw, World Series Subsets PSA, 1969 Expansion Teams PSA, Fleer World Series Sets, Texas Rangers Topps Run 1972-1989
    ----------------------

    Successful deals to date: thedudeabides,gameusedhoop,golfcollector,tigerdean,treetop,bkritz, CapeMOGuy,WeekendHacker,jeff8877,backbidder,Salinas,milbroco,bbuckner22,VitoCo1972,ddfamf,gemint,K,fatty macs,waltersobchak,dboneesq
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    I should also clarify the Bob I was replying to was Oaksey, lol



    Good for you.
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