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Discuss: Crossover best practices

I thought it might be a good idea to collect some of the more common things for members to watch for when considering crossovers.

For example, we are all pretty aware that the #1 concern when crossing from SGC to PSA is centering.

Another one might be that BVG/BGS tended to allow surface defects to slide by when they had their subgrades.

What else should those new to crossing keep in mind?
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Working on the following: 1970 Baseball PSA, 1970-1976 Raw, World Series Subsets PSA, 1969 Expansion Teams PSA, Fleer World Series Sets, Texas Rangers Topps Run 1972-1989
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Successful deals to date: thedudeabides,gameusedhoop,golfcollector,tigerdean,treetop,bkritz, CapeMOGuy,WeekendHacker,jeff8877,backbidder,Salinas,milbroco,bbuckner22,VitoCo1972,ddfamf,gemint,K,fatty macs,waltersobchak,dboneesq

Comments

  • vladguerrerovladguerrero Posts: 4,077 ✭✭✭
    Honestly, the key is crack and sub for best results. From any company to any company.... unless it's super high value.

    I had SGC 5.5's become psa 4's etc lately and I agree that SGC almost bumps a grade is the corners are sharp even if centering is a little lax. I've found that through all years, all sports and non sports.

    80's basketball BGS (not BVG!) is tougher on surface than PSA... snow, fish eyes, focus, coloring. Also, modern refractors BGS grades differently than PSA with PSA allowing refractor lines if it doesn't detract from the overall esthetic of the card, while BGS hammers refractor lines no matter how well placed.

    Certain modern era sets (1995 Bowman's Best jumps to mind as it's one of my favorites) also get slightly different treatment from grading company to grading company. PSA treats it as a floating boarder set and allows the inside centering to drop (it's typically how most of the cards were cut anyways) while BGS prefers the higher dead centered type centering (I have factory sheets that show this is how the cards were intended to be cut, just more often than not these cards are poorly centered).

    I always throw in some modern 'junker' (worthless unless graded 10) cards on my PSA subs because they always seem to throw me a few as practice (maybe because the rest of the cards I send in are garbage! lol).

    My experience from vintage is PSA is much tougher on the details ie small wrinkle will kill a card that may otherwise look like a 9. Those cards may pull a PSA 5 but a BVG 7 which is considerable when dealing with a high $ card.

    I find PSA pretty inconsistent on hand cut cards.

    I prefer PSA packing standards, have had lots of BGS damage issues and they are a hassle even though they make things right.
  • bkingbking Posts: 3,095 ✭✭
    Thanks vlad - just the sort of experiences I wanted to collect here.

    My biggest gripe with PSA has nothing to do with turnaround times, loggage, iffy specials, SMR validity - my biggest gripe is how big of a hit a dingle surface issue can/will cause, while a defect that is visible even after slabbing can often skate by. Oh, the number of vintage I have acquired over the years that are perfect.... err except for a tiny wrinkle - sorry!! Arrrgh
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    Working on the following: 1970 Baseball PSA, 1970-1976 Raw, World Series Subsets PSA, 1969 Expansion Teams PSA, Fleer World Series Sets, Texas Rangers Topps Run 1972-1989
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    Successful deals to date: thedudeabides,gameusedhoop,golfcollector,tigerdean,treetop,bkritz, CapeMOGuy,WeekendHacker,jeff8877,backbidder,Salinas,milbroco,bbuckner22,VitoCo1972,ddfamf,gemint,K,fatty macs,waltersobchak,dboneesq
  • epatmythesepatmythes Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭
    Just from my experience... If you buy a BGS 9.5, hoping to cross to a PSA 10... don't bother if the corners subgrade is a 9.
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>Just from my experience... If you buy a BGS 9.5, hoping to cross to a PSA 10... don't bother if the corners subgrade is a 9. >>



    I 2nd this. If the corner subgrade is a 9 it means that at least one corner is visibly touched, and your chances of getting that card into a PSA 10 holder are effectively nil.
  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,068 ✭✭✭✭✭
    One painful lesson I recently learned is to really scrutinize the surfaces of the card. I recently bought a SGC88 1957 team card only to find it had surface wrinkles on the back upon cracking the case open. I subbed it to PSA anyway and it came back a PSA 5 unsurprisingly. It may be hard to see surface wrinkles through the case but it's worth a close look. Also, measure the card up the best you can. Sometimes an undersized card can find its way into a holder. If you crack and submit it to another grading company, chances are it will get rejected.
  • Mickey71Mickey71 Posts: 4,231 ✭✭✭✭
    From my experience with high end, expensive cards(SGC)..... the card has to basically present a half grade higher just to get in a PSA holder. I've sent in quite a few Mantle's and an 88 better look like a 8.5 to get the 8. Has to be extremely strong for the grade for the crossover. GAI superstar HOF cards will not cross due to bias========just telling it like it is.

    What Gemmint said about the surface is very accurate. SGC is way more lenient with wrinkles and things.
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 29,462 ✭✭✭✭✭
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  • vladguerrerovladguerrero Posts: 4,077 ✭✭✭


    << <i>GAI superstar HOF cards will not cross due to bias========just telling it like it is. >>



    I find the same PSA to BGS and BGS to PSA, it's kind of understandable psychologically just not logically, since this thread is for others who may be nubies don't go by 20 gem mint graded cards by one company and send them to another thinking you have anywhere close to a chance that they all cross (or all but a few). I think my highest was about 50% but as low as 10% crossover in slab success.
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