Random questions from a relative newbie...
wfubob
Posts: 48
So I'm full-on back in the hobby for a little over a month now. I've got a few random questions that have been piling up. Some I care about for my PC, some are just curiosities. Appreciate any input.
1) I'm a raw guy, but regarding grading: does PSA et al consider age when grading? I.e. a corner ding on a '53 is less of a problem than the same ding on a 2012?
2) Is there a resource that tries to track the appearance in the market of limited pulls? E.g. if there is a /5 in a set, have all 5 been pulled? Or how many of a /25 have been pulled? Obviously tough to really track as cards trade multiple times, not every pull is sold, and not everyone grades them for POPs. I'm curious because I'm buying older '05 and '08 boxes and wondering if I'm paying a premium for the "potential" of pulling autos when, in fact, they've already been pulled!
3) Are Card Savers appropriate to store cards long term? Most opinions I've seen are for top loaders with sleeves, but I like the CS for looking at cards.
4) In general, what determines what makes up a "Master Set"? Is that all cards, including variations and parallels? What about /1s, etc?
5) What's a "blaster" box?
6) I certainly know enough to not pay attention to "book value"/Beckett in general. I look at VCP for graded and ebay completed listings for raw. Any other suggestions?
7) Relatedly, however, some active hobbyists I've communicated/traded with have said things like "that probably books for $__". In that context, what are they/you referring to as "book"?
That's all I can think of now. Thanks for helping the new guy.
1) I'm a raw guy, but regarding grading: does PSA et al consider age when grading? I.e. a corner ding on a '53 is less of a problem than the same ding on a 2012?
2) Is there a resource that tries to track the appearance in the market of limited pulls? E.g. if there is a /5 in a set, have all 5 been pulled? Or how many of a /25 have been pulled? Obviously tough to really track as cards trade multiple times, not every pull is sold, and not everyone grades them for POPs. I'm curious because I'm buying older '05 and '08 boxes and wondering if I'm paying a premium for the "potential" of pulling autos when, in fact, they've already been pulled!
3) Are Card Savers appropriate to store cards long term? Most opinions I've seen are for top loaders with sleeves, but I like the CS for looking at cards.
4) In general, what determines what makes up a "Master Set"? Is that all cards, including variations and parallels? What about /1s, etc?
5) What's a "blaster" box?
6) I certainly know enough to not pay attention to "book value"/Beckett in general. I look at VCP for graded and ebay completed listings for raw. Any other suggestions?
7) Relatedly, however, some active hobbyists I've communicated/traded with have said things like "that probably books for $__". In that context, what are they/you referring to as "book"?
That's all I can think of now. Thanks for helping the new guy.
Now building '56 and '57 Topps, '05 Topps Chrome, '08 Heritage, and '12 Heritage
0
Comments
I believe there is a very small amount of give and take with certain issues of cards, but for the most part a corner ding on a 53 is going to hurt it just as much as a corner ding on an equal condition 2012 topps.
2) Is there a resource that tries to track the appearance in the market of limited pulls? E.g. if there is a /5 in a set, have all 5 been pulled? Or how many of a /25 have been pulled? Obviously tough to really track as cards trade multiple times, not every pull is sold, and not everyone grades them for POPs. I'm curious because I'm buying older '05 and '08 boxes and wondering if I'm paying a premium for the "potential" of pulling autos when, in fact, they've already been pulled!
No, you would have to check ebay, forums, and anywhere cards are listed yourself. As you stated it would be pretty impossible to track something like this since I'm sure many cards go into PC's and never touch the internet.
3) Are Card Savers appropriate to store cards long term? Most opinions I've seen are for top loaders with sleeves, but I like the CS for looking at cards.
I store everything of mine in CS1's, CS2's, and top loaders with sleeves. I avoid binders and personally prefer card savers to top loaders
4) In general, what determines what makes up a "Master Set"? Is that all cards, including variations and parallels? What about /1s, etc?
Can't answer this sorry!
5) What's a "blaster" box?
Retail box with a bunch of packs, typically not guaranteed any "hits" (Gu or Au).
6) I certainly know enough to not pay attention to "book value"/Beckett in general. I look at VCP for graded and ebay completed listings for raw. Any other suggestions?
You're pretty on track. Obviously logic needs to be used, but VCP is one of the better tools used to track card sales, and ebay completed shows recent "market" sales on the cards.
7) Relatedly, however, some active hobbyists I've communicated/traded with have said things like "that probably books for $__". In that context, what are they/you referring to as "book"?
Beckett value/ Book Value/ BV. Typically used with modern but sometimes used with vintage. With modern many people sell certain tiers of players for a certain percent of book value... Vintage ignores this completely and can range anywhere from 3% to 5000% of that value depending on condition and grade.
1) I think they claim(or used to claim) that grading is an across-the-board standard. A t206 is graded the same as 2012 Topps. You might want to check their website for clarification.
2) I know on some limited relic cards, news will break on someone pulling them(i.e. the Bowman Refractor 1/1 Strasburg) or there was a guy that acquired all three or four jersey button cards of Nolan Ryan. Aside from those examples, I'm not sure about other really limited cards.
3) I've never had issues with Card Savers, the cards don't slip out like top loaders, but most collectors and dealers seem to prefer top loaders as they don't bend nor does the plastic press on them.
4) 1/1s are not typically part of masters set. I think parallels are considered its own set. Topps Gold is a separate set then Topps Copper. A master set would include all the variations, so a 1979 Topps Master set requires both Bump Wills card variations.
5) I believe it's those boxes you get at Walmart or Target that include 11 packs for the price of 10 with a special bonus card inside. I've asked why they call it that, but have never received an answer.
6) Like buying a car or clothes at the mall, I'll also shop around on other dealers websites(or tables when perusing shows) in addition to what you've mentioned.
7) "Book" value is the price printed in the price guides(usually Beckett, can be SCD/Krause) that represents the full "retail price" a card is going for.
Craig H
<< <i>So I'm full-on back in the hobby for a little over a month now. I've got a few random questions that have been piling up. Some I care about for my PC, some are just curiosities. Appreciate any input.
1) I'm a raw guy, but regarding grading: does PSA et al consider age when grading? I.e. a corner ding on a '53 is less of a problem than the same ding on a 2012?
2) Is there a resource that tries to track the appearance in the market of limited pulls? E.g. if there is a /5 in a set, have all 5 been pulled? Or how many of a /25 have been pulled? Obviously tough to really track as cards trade multiple times, not every pull is sold, and not everyone grades them for POPs. I'm curious because I'm buying older '05 and '08 boxes and wondering if I'm paying a premium for the "potential" of pulling autos when, in fact, they've already been pulled!
3) Are Card Savers appropriate to store cards long term? Most opinions I've seen are for top loaders with sleeves, but I like the CS for looking at cards.
4) In general, what determines what makes up a "Master Set"? Is that all cards, including variations and parallels? What about /1s, etc?
5) What's a "blaster" box?
6) I certainly know enough to not pay attention to "book value"/Beckett in general. I look at VCP for graded and ebay completed listings for raw. Any other suggestions?
7) Relatedly, however, some active hobbyists I've communicated/traded with have said things like "that probably books for $__". In that context, what are they/you referring to as "book"?
That's all I can think of now. Thanks for helping the new guy. >>
#1 That a boy! The way they were met to be. They say they are graded across the board. Long story short..... They don't. I think
weather intentional or not they are more leniant on many vintage issues. Its not very likely a PSA 10 1950 something card is going
to be in the same catagory as a shiney new modern pull. Most TPGers are very inconsistant IMHO.
#2 Don't Know
#3 I personally keep all my sets in Ultra Pro Pages and Binders with divider boards placed through out the set.
Top Loaders and Penny sleeves have caused more damage to card corners than any product on the market I avoid them like the plague.
Card saver II are a much better play in my opinion. Thats also why All Grading Companies want cards submitted in Card Saver II's
#4 Don't Know ALL the cards?
#5 Don't Know / Don't care really
#6 #7 Any publication listing prices: Beckett, SMR, Tuff Stuff, VCP. All are just tools to give you a general ideal of pricing.
Most of the "Whats it worth" "Label Collectors" worship them as if they are written in stone or were brang down from the mountain
by Moses. NOT!
Enjoy the cards for what they ARE not what they might be worth and it will be a much more worth while and satisfying hobby.
John
All American Hobbies Online Store
#2 Dont know
#3 Anything that protects the card works
#4 I thought any set and its parallels and inserts (not incuding 1/1 or sometimes autos)
#5 Theyre the cheap wal mart boxes that contain nothing
#6 Completed listings on ebay
#7 Book is a generic term related to any price guide (usually Beckett). They are referring more to the relative value to other "book" cards rather than what it is actually worth or what it sells for.