Buffaloes/1913S type 2 ACID DATE...

joeykoins

I hate to treat a coin,just as the next guy,but If done correctly,neat,careful and discreetly, would you agree with me that this treasure( in the indian series ) is still rare as well as more "valuable" than one gives credit to? Think of it! I know, It's been tampered with and some what damaged. but still, It has the lowest mintage, of any buff. I just wonder If anybody else, feels as I do? Thanks in advance for any opinions. _ joey

morbidsteve

Need... photos....... AHHHH

joeykoins

Sorry for no pics. still learning! I have 2 13S's

JamesMurray

I would leave it be , acid and discreet are two words that dont compute with coins.

Kaelasdad

The only way to have an acid treated 13 s Type 2 is if you had a no date S mint and found out it was a 13, or if you thought there might be a MM and you knew it was a 13--Obviously you wouldnt acid treat a coin you already knew the specifics--so whats the damage? It was a no date coin for the most part, and worth about 7 cents. even acid treated its now a known commodity. So, tell, me how do you leave it be? can you really mess up a 7 cent nickel? to what? 5 cents?

joeykoins

<< <i>The only way to have an acid treated 13 s Type 2 is if you had a no date S mint and found out it was a 13, or if you thought there might be a MM and you knew it was a 13--Obviously you wouldnt acid treat a coin you already knew the specifics--so whats the damage? It was a no date coin for the most part, and worth about 7 cents. even acid treated its now a known commodity. So, tell, me how do you leave it be? can you really mess up a 7 cent nickel? to what? 5 cents? >>

Well put!Yeah mine were without a date, the mint mark (S) was clear already.

PerryHall

If the date is not visible, are there any die markers that allow one to determine that it's indeed a type 2 1913-S nickel? If the answer is no, I see no downside to using acid to bring up the date. The acid treatment will be visible but someone looking to fill a hole in their album will want it and these do sell for a premium on eBay but I'm not sure what they are currently bringing.

ikegolf

JamesMurray

<< <i>The only way to have an acid treated 13 s Type 2 is if you had a no date S mint and found out it was a 13, or if you thought there might be a MM and you knew it was a 13--Obviously you wouldnt acid treat a coin you already knew the specifics--so whats the damage? It was a no date coin for the most part, and worth about 7 cents. even acid treated its now a known commodity. So, tell, me how do you leave it be? can you really mess up a 7 cent nickel? to what? 5 cents? >>



By all means feel free to destroy your coins.Not everyone puts a $ sign value on coins , id no more acid treat a buffalo than i would a 900 year old hammered just because i cant see the date.

joeykoins

<< <i>If the date is not visible, are there any die markers that allow one to determine that it's indeed a type 2 1913-S nickel? If the answer is no, I see no downside to using acid to bring up the date. The acid treatment will be visible but someone looking to fill a hole in their album will want it and these do sell for a premium on eBay but I'm not sure what they are currently bringing. >>

Yeah, I did everything in my power to avoid the acid, but to no avail,I had no choice. Your right about the figures on the bay. Not really bad prices out there,despite the chemical added.Will anybody slab these?

joeykoins

It's not so much the money, It's knowing for sure, that this coin in my possession is that wonderful 1913S type 2 Buffaloe!

lasvegasteddy

if acid treated properly they can come out nice
you bet though
those keys can carry better value like you address here too
some have assembled complete sets..."acid treated"

joeykoins

Hi Teddy,Do you know of anyone that would slab these? Just curious.

lasvegasteddy

<< <i>Hi Teddy,Do you know of anyone that would slab these? Just curious. >>


all major tpg's will...just ask for detail grade service...as they will holder them in genuine/authentic only

Kaelasdad

PCGS will slab them as genuine, maybe, but damaged, and of course, they would be mostly PO details, so, why pay the cash to slab them at all? I dont think anyone is going to be counterfeiting PO1 acid treated key dates...unless its a 16/16 and yes, I look at no date coins just so I can maybe find one of those. And I have no problem "destroying" a 7 cent nickel only to woefully end up with a $50 key date coin. And some guys have found 16 DDOs worth thousands, only after an acid treatment, I guess they destroyed those too.

I do apologise for the dripping sarcasm, but seriously, we are talking cull, no date, worthless, not even jewelry quality coins--and to say destruction is whats happening, thats plain silly. These coins are getting a second life, and collectors are able to fill holes with key dates and not go broke in the process.

johnny9434

welcome to the forums ikegolf. dont be bashful

PerryHall

<< <i>PCGS will slab them as genuine, maybe, but damaged, and of course, they would be mostly PO details, so, why pay the cash to slab them at all? I dont think anyone is going to be counterfeiting PO1 acid treated key dates...unless its a 16/16 and yes, I look at no date coins just so I can maybe find one of those. And I have no problem "destroying" a 7 cent nickel only to woefully end up with a $50 key date coin. And some guys have found 16 DDOs worth thousands, only after an acid treatment, I guess they destroyed those too.

I do apologise for the dripping sarcasm, but seriously, we are talking cull, no date, worthless, not even jewelry quality coins--and to say destruction is whats happening, thats plain silly. These coins are getting a second life, and collectors are able to fill holes with key dates and not go broke in the process. >>



The 1916/16 nickel has a DDO and can be easily identified without the date by the doubling in the Indian's feathers. PCGS will grade and slab these coins even without the date because they have a die marker to identify them. Same with dateless 1916 standing Liberty quarters.

Kaelasdad

Yes I know, but if you had a dateless 16 DDO, wouldnt you just want to see that date.........its the whole point of the thing being so desirable. We want the 1916 SLQ because its rare, but we dont need the date to know its a 16--Ive found a dateless, so i know how its done. But a 16 DDO, I would want to see that date. not the doubled feathers.

PerryHall

<< <i>Yes I know, but if you had a dateless 16 DDO, wouldnt you just want to see that date.........its the whole point of the thing being so desirable. We want the 1916 SLQ because its rare, but we dont need the date to know its a 16--Ive found a dateless, so i know how its done. But a 16 DDO, I would want to see that date. not the doubled feathers. >>



If you add acid to see the date, the value drops. If you get it graded and slabbed, the value goes up. It's your call.

crazyhounddog

<< <i>

<< <i>Yes I know, but if you had a dateless 16 DDO, wouldnt you just want to see that date.........its the whole point of the thing being so desirable. We want the 1916 SLQ because its rare, but we dont need the date to know its a 16--Ive found a dateless, so i know how its done. But a 16 DDO, I would want to see that date. not the doubled feathers. >>



If you add acid to see the date, the value drops. If you get it graded and slabbed, the value goes up. It's your call. >>



I don't like acid dated Buffs and never have. It distroys the value. Just the way I feel about it....

yellowjacket

If you hve a dateless buffalo nickel with an S mintmnark AND a very weak "Liberty," you have narrowed it down to 1913-S type 2, 1914-S, and 1915-S. Two out of three ain't bad. Also, if you find D mint dateless buffalos with the mm tilted to the E in Five, you may have an overdate. ANACS certified key date buffalos do bring a premium over the 7c dateless value. Just check Teletrade.

Garrow

DIMEMAN

I have always been under the impression that an acid treated Buffalo is worth 5c....no matter what the date or MM.

WhiteTornado

<< <i>These coins are getting a second life, and collectors are able to fill holes with key dates and not go broke in the process. >>

I enjoy acid-treating Buffs and have no problem with it. I am working on a Whitman folder of them.

WhiteTornado

<< <i>I have always been under the impression that an acid treated Buffalo is worth 5c....no matter what the date or MM. >>



Not necessarily true. For example, check completed eBay auctions for an acid-treated 1914-D. Some recent examples have gone for as much as $10. Not big bucks, but much more than face value. I have a couple of them myself.

DIMEMAN

I always thought they should be worth something, but never had any luck finding buyers.

WhiteTornado

<< <i>I always thought they should be worth something, but never had any luck finding buyers. >>

Yes, it's strange, eBay completed auctions of the 1914-D (keeping with my example above) show prices of as much as $10 to as little as 99 cents, so go figure Maybe seller reputation factors into it, but I'm not sure.

Shamika

A 13-S T2 will always sell even if it's an acid date.

gyocomgd

Numismatically I'm pretty liberal, but I just can't get my mind around acid dates. I look for ways to embrace them, but just can't. I'd rather have a hole in an album and keep yearning than have one. I find them fairly harmless, and for those who find them rewarding, more power to you.

DrPete

Given the amazing technologies we have in so many fields, isn't there some other way of detecting dates and mint marks on coins without resorting to the acid treatments?

Any metallurgists out there that know of an alternative to seeing this kind of detail?

joeykoins

Yeah, Dr. Pete, Good point! You would think so nowadays.

Shamika

<< <i>Any metallurgists out there that know of an alternative to seeing this kind of detail? >>


Not in an inexpensive matter.

rec78

O'-I don't know'-- I once had a few hundred to maybe a thousand or even more dateless buffs. I thought of putting together an acid treated set date and mm but there were not very many with mm's. So I just wound up selling them to a dealer as dateless buffs. I got like 10 cents each for them and after paying postage on a very heavy package made only a few bucks total. To me a dateless buff is just as worthless as an acid treated coin, but you can have fun of putting the set together at very low cost. A P-01 coin is better than an acid treated coin grade-wise. I suggest a new lower grade of very poor zero (VP-0 or VP-0.1) for acid treated coins or otherwise culls.

Bob

OldEastside

Let sleeping Buffalos lie

Steve

Casman

<< <i>I have always been under the impression that an acid treated Buffalo is worth 5c....no matter what the date or MM. >>




Before I knew any better, and in an attempt to have some fun with my girls, we'd acid dated a bunch of them.

I sold 2 of them for a total of $750, so my impression is that they're worth a little more than 5c. (eidt: they were both 1918/7's )

oldfolkie

If it fills your book and you want to see the date, go for it. Why is everything about value? One of my most valued coins is a 13s acid date buffalo I got it dateless, and a lot of others from from a shoe shine guy in South Philly in 1960 as a 7 year old. My dad and I were ecstatic at just seeing the date. Years later I purchased a "fine' example but I'd get rid of that before my old acid date.

BUFFNIXX

Please be advised that the buffalo keys such as the 13s ty2, 14d, 16 ddo, 18/7-d etc bring significant premiums on fleabay so if the restoration is done properly and professionally you can make some nice money with these acid etched fillers. Try over a hundred smackers for an 18/7-d and upwards of a grand for a 16 doubled die.

yellowjacket

Acid treated ANACS overdates go for $210-$225 on Teletrade. Having them slabbed as genuine gets them into the auction house.

Garrow

joeykoins

...and my parents told me as a kid growing up,that "acid" is not good for you!