Cello Boxes from BBCE - Your Advice?

If you buy a Cello Box from BBCE - it comes "wrapped" in plastic by BBCE. Assuming you aren't opening any of the cello PACKS, is it advisable to keep it "wrapped"? I asked because I'm tempted so many times to buy a cello box - but the fun (even if you aren't opening the cello) - is to see who you get on the front and back of the unopened pack.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
0
Comments
<< <i>If you buy a Cello Box from BBCE - it comes "wrapped" in plastic by BBCE. Assuming you aren't opening any of the cello PACKS, is it advisable to keep it "wrapped"? I asked because I'm tempted so many times to buy a cello box - but the fun (even if you aren't opening the cello) - is to see who you get on the front and back of the unopened pack.
Thoughts? >>
Personally, if it was a wax box I'd say definitely keep it sealed as Steve's reputation will sell it in the future. However, with the way star cellos have been selling I'd probably open it and see if I hit a home run with the packs. They're still cellos and the box will sell if you decide to go that route.
Mark
T206 Set - 300/524
May not be a lot now, but just think 5-10 years down the road. You'll be able to sell if you choose and advertise it that way. Not a better unopened seller in the US.
"Live everyday, don't throw it away"
1986 FB Cello
My collecting blog: http://ctcard.wordpress.com
Reed Kasaoka
Buyer, Baseball Card Exchange
cell: (808) 372-1974
email: ReedBBCE@gmail.com
website: www.bbce.com
eBay stores: bbcexchange, bbcexchange2, bbcexchange3, bbcexchange4
Dave
<< <i>BTW, if anyone can think of a way to seal the boxes, be tamper-proof, and the expense (in time and money) is not too cost prohibitive, we're all ears at BBCE. I've been thinking of ways to do this (have to think about something driving all over the country), not just with unopened boxes but raw packs as well, and the ideas I've developed are mediocre at best. Email me ReedBBCE@gmail.com with any suggestions. >>
Have you checked into the cost of having your company name printed randomly across the cellophane and use that to seal the box? Similar to what card manufacturers have used to seal their boxes in the past.
<< <i>BTW, if anyone can think of a way to seal the boxes, be tamper-proof, and the expense (in time and money) is not too cost prohibitive, we're all ears at BBCE. I've been thinking of ways to do this (have to think about something driving all over the country), not just with unopened boxes but raw packs as well, and the ideas I've developed are mediocre at best. Email me ReedBBCE@gmail.com with any suggestions. >>
What about printing a BBCE logo on the shrink wrap the way Panini/Topps/UD do? Not "100% tamper-proof," but definitely difficult to replicate.
<< <i>
<< <i>BTW, if anyone can think of a way to seal the boxes, be tamper-proof, and the expense (in time and money) is not too cost prohibitive, we're all ears at BBCE. I've been thinking of ways to do this (have to think about something driving all over the country), not just with unopened boxes but raw packs as well, and the ideas I've developed are mediocre at best. Email me ReedBBCE@gmail.com with any suggestions. >>
Have you checked into the cost of having your company name printed randomly across the cellophane and use that to seal the box? Similar to what card manufacturers have used to seal their boxes in the past. >>
I was a minute too slow.
My collecting blog: http://ctcard.wordpress.com
<< <i>BTW, if anyone can think of a way to seal the boxes, be tamper-proof, and the expense (in time and money) is not too cost prohibitive, we're all ears at BBCE. I've been thinking of ways to do this (have to think about something driving all over the country), not just with unopened boxes but raw packs as well, and the ideas I've developed are mediocre at best. Email me ReedBBCE@gmail.com with any suggestions. >>
Reed, I brought up the need for such a service the other day. My opinion is that not all packs (especially wax) need to be graded but they need to be authenticated so that long distance BST can be done with some confidence. I think shrink wrap is one part of the solution but you may need a numbered tamper proof hologram/seal to avoid someone copying your shrinkwrap.
Link
<< <i>
<< <i>BTW, if anyone can think of a way to seal the boxes, be tamper-proof, and the expense (in time and money) is not too cost prohibitive, we're all ears at BBCE. I've been thinking of ways to do this (have to think about something driving all over the country), not just with unopened boxes but raw packs as well, and the ideas I've developed are mediocre at best. Email me ReedBBCE@gmail.com with any suggestions. >>
Reed, I brought up the need for such a service the other day. My opinion is that not all packs (especially wax) need to be graded but they need to be authenticated so that long distance BST can be done with some confidence. I think shrink wrap is one part of the solution but you may need a numbered tamper proof hologram/seal to avoid someone copying your shrinkwrap.
Link >>
Not grading packs is not really an option at this point with the set registry in place already. In addition, the problem with loose gum causing wrapper tears will still be an issue if you buy a pack that has no tears in a scan but it is torn during transit. I think PSA is aware of this and working with different improvements with the holdering process that will hopefully minimize those issues in the future.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>BTW, if anyone can think of a way to seal the boxes, be tamper-proof, and the expense (in time and money) is not too cost prohibitive, we're all ears at BBCE. I've been thinking of ways to do this (have to think about something driving all over the country), not just with unopened boxes but raw packs as well, and the ideas I've developed are mediocre at best. Email me ReedBBCE@gmail.com with any suggestions. >>
Reed, I brought up the need for such a service the other day. My opinion is that not all packs (especially wax) need to be graded but they need to be authenticated so that long distance BST can be done with some confidence. I think shrink wrap is one part of the solution but you may need a numbered tamper proof hologram/seal to avoid someone copying your shrinkwrap.
Link >>
Not grading packs is not really an option at this point with the set registry in place already. In addition, the problem with loose gum causing wrapper tears will still be an issue if you buy a pack that has no tears in a scan but it is torn during transit. I think PSA is aware of this and working with different improvements with the holdering process that will hopefully minimize those issues in the future. >>
I realize what you are saying but from my point of view, I enjoy the collecting of the pack or better yet the box, not necessarily having a number grade. If you are selling or you collect to have the best, the number is important. However, if you collect for the sheer joy of ownership or recapturing a bygone era, the grade is totally irrelevant. Why do some collectors want sets with high grade cards while others collect it raw just to collect the set with no concern as to how the cards grade? The same is true for unopened. Maybe I'm the only person who will collect a pack or buy a box and not worry "how it grades". My concern is not spending my money on resealed garbage. Am I wrong?
Well, you can buy lower grade packs or raw packs from Steve and be assured that what you are getting is authentic and unopened. If the grade is not an issue for you, I would recommend that course of action, as the high grade packs are going to command much higher prices due to the set registry. That way you have the best of both worlds. As for boxes, PSA doesn't grade them anyway, so you have to do your homework and make sure you are buying from a reputable source if you are not familiar with what to look for on a wax pack to tell if it's resealed or not.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
My collecting blog: http://ctcard.wordpress.com
<< <i>I realize what you are saying but from my point of view, I enjoy the collecting of the pack or better yet the box, not necessarily having a number grade. If you are selling or you collect to have the best, the number is important. However, if you collect for the sheer joy of ownership or recapturing a bygone era, the grade is totally irrelevant. Why do some collectors want sets with high grade cards while others collect it raw just to collect the set with no concern as to how the cards grade? The same is true for unopened. Maybe I'm the only person who will collect a pack or buy a box and not worry "how it grades". My concern is not spending my money on resealed garbage. Am I wrong?
Well, you can buy lower grade packs or raw packs from Steve and be assured that what you are getting is authentic and unopened. If the grade is not an issue for you, I would recommend that course of action, as the high grade packs are going to command much higher prices due to the set registry. That way you have the best of both worlds. As for boxes, PSA doesn't grade them anyway, so you have to do your homework and make sure you are buying from a reputable source if you are not familiar with what to look for on a wax pack to tell if it's resealed or not. >>
Personally, I've collected wax for almost 25 years. I have a pretty good degree of confidence in spotting resealed stuff (admittingly learning the hard way in my early dealings). But again, that only works if I can hold the item before purchase. What am I to do if I'm in FL and a pack or box I desire is for sale in Kansas City? This is where authentication and sealing would be beneficial. You schooled me on why PSA packs tear and I know I have the choice to grade or not and accept the small risk that it could be damaged. I've come to the conclusion that if I wish to sell I'll have to accept that risk and have the pack graded. I understand that. But if I have an authenticated only pack I could choose to sell it as is (say it would come back off grade so why spend the money) or send it to PSA who hopefully could grade it immediately as it was sealed by their authenticator. This is the scenario I'm looking at. The beauty is that it would allow us to get our boxes sealed and it would afford beginning collectors a degree of security and confidence in a purchase. Let's face it, the more collectors yields a shorter supply and increases the value of your holdings. Not a thing wrong in anything you've said, I am just approaching a slightly different problem from a slightly different perspective.
Edit to add: PSA also does not and never will grade full boxes but as the OP stated, a box purchased and shrinkwrapped by BBCE is obviously going to add a degree of confidence and value for the buyer when the seller decides to sell that box.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>PSA already offers an Authentic non-grade option for those packs that don't meet a minimum grade requested by the submitter. I understand what you're saying but it's simply not realistic to expect that PSA simply abandon the concept of grading packs under these circumstances. When buying raw wax, provenance and the reputation of the seller dictate whether a buyer should have enough confidence to make a purchase. It was that way long before the advent of pack grading and I don't see any reason compelling enough to change that dynamic now.
Edit to add: PSA also does not and never will grade full boxes but as the OP stated, a box purchased and shrinkwrapped by BBCE is obviously going to add a degree of confidence and value for the buyer when the seller decides to sell that box. >>
I agree. I in no way remotely would recommend that PSA shouldn't grade packs. There definitely is a need for it. My position is simply you don't need 100% of the packs graded and a simple authentication (and sealing) from a trusted expert would work in some occasions (pack not in perfect shape , a less valuable item, etc.). Granted that provenance and reputation is #1. I've been trumpeting that very line for years. But that's exactly the point why this is needed. You don't know everyone. One final example and I'll try not to keep beating this dead horse. You personally don't know me. Let's say I have a box of item x and a wax pack of 197x baseball that's a little worn around the edges. I want to sell them. You say boy, I'd really like to have both of those but I don't know this DCanfield character and no one I know has ever dealt with him. Do I pass and miss an opportunity? Or do we have my scenario. Both items have been examined and sealed. I don't know Doug but I know the authenticator so I have no worries in making a deal because I know that the items are real. I'll decide once I PERSONALLY see the pack if it's worth having graded.
As I mentioned in my previous post, this gives a ton of promise to older, more common cellos and virtually would open up a new market for wax packs that aren't PSA graded but BBCE authenticated. I could absolutely see this as a great business for BBCE. Heck, as a matter of fact - people may send in older packs/cellos/boxes to get them BBCE authenticated, especially rack packs, etc that you simply don't want cased by PSA and graded.
My collecting blog: http://ctcard.wordpress.com
<< <i>Since Reed at BBCE is looking into it - I think it's something that does have legs on a BBCE level for sure. In no ways does this replace pack grading, as a matter of fact, my guess is it would encourage MORE pack grading because at that point you have the confidence that it's going to pass an authenticity check.
As I mentioned in my previous post, this gives a ton of promise to older, more common cellos and virtually would open up a new market for wax packs that aren't PSA graded but BBCE authenticated. I could absolutely see this as a great business for BBCE. Heck, as a matter of fact - people may send in older packs/cellos/boxes to get them BBCE authenticated, especially rack packs, etc that you simply don't want cased by PSA and graded. >>
Said perfectly. This is what I've been saying and Reed's comments got me back on the soapbox. My apologies if I was unclear. I truly believe there is a need to grade and I believe there is a need to develop a product that does no harm (i.e. tears). I'm confident that will happen hopefully in the near future and not the distant future.
John
All American Hobbies Online Store
<< <i>My Advice? RIPPPPPPPPPPPPP them ALL!! FREE the Cards!!!!!!! >>
If you keep them in the packs they are better protected.
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep."
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
Collecting:
Any unopened Baseball cello and rack packs and boxes from the 1970's and early 1980s.
Either way you could meet your goal. Value goes up, or you have fun.
Dave
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep."
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
Collecting:
Any unopened Baseball cello and rack packs and boxes from the 1970's and early 1980s.
My collecting blog: http://ctcard.wordpress.com
<< <i>Mike - if you had a BBCE shrink wrapped, tagged from a sealed case of 1975 cello - do you break the shrink to see whose on the front/back of each cello pack - or do you keep it sealed? >>
Tear the shrinkwrap! The potential value of any star packs outweighs the small premium added for a shrinkwrapped cello box, imo. For wax, though, I'd leave it shrinkwrapped and have boxes from BBCE from the 70s that I purchased from Steve still in the shrinkwrap as well.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>
<< <i>My Advice? RIPPPPPPPPPPPPP them ALL!! FREE the Cards!!!!!!! >>
If you keep them in the packs they are better protected.
Not if you rip them and put them in Card savers.
Mike, How come I get the feeling you would be uncomfortable leaving me in a room alone with your "Unopened" LOL!
John
All American Hobbies Online Store