Question for the Mercury dime collectors

erwindoc · April 30, 2012 2:08AM

Been considering a short set(1941-1945) in MS67FB(except the 45P of course) and just looked over pricing guides. Can anyone share why the 44P is so high at 67FB? Same reasons as the 45P??

Kozman · April 30, 2012 3:05AM

The 44 in 67FB's has a population of 79 with only one higher. Probably the reason why it is so pricey. I still need one for my collection.

DIMEMAN · April 30, 2012 3:18AM

Full bands are the MOST overrated thing in numismatics. That being said, if you must have FB's and grade match go for 66FB. You can find 66's that are better looking than 67's if you take your time and be very picky. Then the 42-S and 44-P won't sting so bad.

JMHO

keyman64 · April 30, 2012 3:25AM

What Kozman said...

In regards to Dimeman, he is misguided and does not truly appreciate the FULL design of the coin as it was intended.

COALPORTER · April 30, 2012 5:00AM

Yes, if you want Full Bands in those grades, the price is "high". The good news is, imo, the PCGS
price guide is way too high for late date Mer. Dimes, and I have seen many dealers lowering prices
to sell coins.

lasvegasteddy · April 30, 2012 5:05AM

<< Full bands are the MOST overrated thing in numismatics. That being said, if you must have FB's and grade match go for 66FB. You can find 66's that are better looking than 67's if you take your time and be very picky. Then the 42-S and 44-P won't sting so bad.

JMHO >>

sounds like some nice insight to me crowd i'm in here...

jom · April 30, 2012 5:07AM

<< Full bands are the MOST overrated thing in numismatics. That being said, if you must have FB's and grade match go for 66FB. You can find 66's that are better looking than 67's if you take your time and be very picky. Then the 42-S and 44-P won't sting so bad.

JMHO >>

I could NOT agree with this more. When I see FB I think "hype".

To the OP: forget about matching grades on slabs. Cherry pick the nicest coins for the price paid...forget the damn grades. Also pick out the best strikes for the price paid as well.

jom

crypto79 · April 30, 2012 5:12AM

<< Full bands are the MOST overrated thing in numismatics.

JMHO >>

That's not true, FBL on Franklins is

LanceNewmanOCC · April 30, 2012 5:13AM

<< 

<< Full bands are the MOST overrated thing in numismatics.

JMHO >>

That's not true, FBL on Franklins is >>

how about EORT?

Bochiman · April 30, 2012 6:08AM

<< 

<< Full bands are the MOST overrated thing in numismatics.

JMHO >>

That's not true, FBL on Franklins is >>

FB / FBL / FS (Full Steps) / FH (Full Head)

Just about any designation qualifies as they are generally meant to mean a great/full strike, but most of us have seen examples that weren't as overall nice as examples that did not have that designation.

DIMEMAN · April 30, 2012 6:11AM

Poor Keyman64 is the misguided one.

I do appreciate the design, but the bands are less important to me than the hair curls on the obverse.

Plus you can always find almost FB and get the coin for non FB price.

Those bands on some dates cost thousands and are not worth it to me.

I've always said and still believe that the only coins that look better with the strike designator are the FH standing quarters. The full head actually looks much better than the flat head.

Sorry Greg.

Mowgli · April 30, 2012 6:24AM

<< 

<< Full bands are the MOST overrated thing in numismatics.

JMHO >>

That's not true, FBL on Franklins is >>

I'd vote for FS on Jefferson nickels

keyman64 · April 30, 2012 6:28AM

I wish they would get rid of the Full Steps, Full Head, Full Bands etc.....................and go with FULL STRIKE for all coins. For instance, a Full Head without a Full Shield makes no sense to me. I am one that appreciates the FULL DESIGN of a coin, not just most of it. Quality(of strike) over Quantity Any Day!

DIMEMAN · April 30, 2012 6:37AM

That's all we need a new "full strike".......everybody send in all your coins for regrading. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ DING DING DING!!!!!!

keyman64 · April 30, 2012 7:03AM

<<

That's all we need a new "full strike".......everybody send in all your coins for regrading. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ DING DING DING!!!!!! >>

golfer72 · April 30, 2012 8:27AM

Strike is supposed to be factored into the grade anyway. I agree most of these designations are way overhyped and dont buy labels buy coins. Whenever someone says they want to do this or that set in a specific grade like 66 or 67 I cringe. As one oft he other posters said buy the coins not the labels. If you want to collect plastic match all the grades perfectly. Otherwise look at the coins.

erwindoc · April 30, 2012 10:33AM

I would agree with the side comments on this post, but you have to have a goal when starting something otherwise you just end up going all over the place. Coins of that size make MS67 very reachable. Dropping to MS66FB isnt a bad idea and would sure leave money on the table for the rest of the series, if that is something that I wanted to tackle again. However, for many of the dates/mm of the short set the dollar difference from one grade to the other isnt that high.

About the designation, well its a whole issue all by itself and one that Im sure whole threads are about. I often flip flop on the merits of having it or not. I played the game previously with Roosevelts and have a down right impressive set, but it was expensive. Got 3/4 of the way before changing my mind to go with the designation. I told myself I wouldnt start another set that even had one attached to it. However, this is such an attractive design that I wanted to have some in my collection-hence the short set.

fcloud · April 30, 2012 11:38AM

1944 is tough in full band, just not as tough as the 1945, so pricing seems high on this year, but the quality of the strike is lower than other common years.

As far as no band v. full bands. Get what you like and let Jon and Greg do the bickering.

DIMEMAN · April 30, 2012 11:54AM

We don't bicker.....we just agree to disagree!

Question for the Mercury dime collectors

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