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and one more dime by Mr Goodman, an 1873 DDO in ms.


yes I know what you are thinking, especially Ricko, it is blast white, what was I thinking.....once in a while yah just got to make an exception when you want a high grade example, what can I say, I caved.
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Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
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I think it would grade 62-63.......nice dime!!!
<< <i>I wonder what pcgs would grade it. >>
What do you hope it grades?
btw very nice.
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<< <i>I think it would grade 62-63.......nice dime!!! >>
Agree, 62-63. And I'd lean toward the 62 side.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
<< <i>Fine...I'll comment again. One of the coolest DDOs that exist!...then with it white and in MS is a huge bonus. Way cool. >>
It's ok but it's no DDR
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
<< <i>
<< <i>That shield is amazing! >>
thanks, check out below and to the right of "Y' of LIBERTY. Is that another Y and the rest of the banner, check out also the ball of the drapes or whatever you call it, to the right and below once again. >>
Without question, that is another Y.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
<< <i>I was kidding, everybody known the 73 dime is a top shelf variety. But just to fight fire with fire note there is doubling all over the Rev of the Trade and not just isolated to one section. >>
When multiple pressings are required to hub a working die, the design starts to form near the center of the image. With each pressing the design forms further and further out towards the rim.
If the die-in-progress is rotated or misaligned between the first and second impressions, only the relatively small area formed during the first impression will be doubled during the second impression. If the misalignment occurs between the second and third impressions, a larger area will be doubled. Etc.
Look at the 1916/16 Buffalo nickel. Most of the design had already been formed before the rotated final impression, but the areas closest to the rims (such as the bottom of the date and LIBERTY) had not yet been formed and so these areas do not show doubling in the final image.
TD
(And I think this thread could use some larger images.)
<< <i>
<< <i>I was kidding, everybody known the 73 dime is a top shelf variety. But just to fight fire with fire note there is doubling all over the Rev of the Trade and not just isolated to one section. >>
When multiple pressings are required to hub a working die, the design starts to form near the center of the image. With each pressing the design forms further and further out towards the rim.
If the die-in-progress is rotated or misaligned between the first and second impressions, only the relatively small area formed during the first impression will be doubled during the second impression. If the misalignment occurs between the second and third impressions, a larger area will be doubled. Etc.
Look at the 1916/16 Buffalo nickel. Most of the design had already been formed before the rotated final impression, but the areas closest to the rims (such as the bottom of the date and LIBERTY) had not yet been formed and so these areas do not show doubling in the final image.
TD >>
That is great information and thanks for sharing . It should also be noted to people interested in the process that there is a difference between negative space and positive and earlier impressions can also be wiped out by later impressions say if a design element is of lower depth and went where a higher point follows on later hubbings.
<< <i>
<< <i>I was kidding, everybody known the 73 dime is a top shelf variety. But just to fight fire with fire note there is doubling all over the Rev of the Trade and not just isolated to one section. >>
When multiple pressings are required to hub a working die, the design starts to form near the center of the image. With each pressing the design forms further and further out towards the rim.
If the die-in-progress is rotated or misaligned between the first and second impressions, only the relatively small area formed during the first impression will be doubled during the second impression. If the misalignment occurs between the second and third impressions, a larger area will be doubled. Etc.
Look at the 1916/16 Buffalo nickel. Most of the design had already been formed before the rotated final impression, but the areas closest to the rims (such as the bottom of the date and LIBERTY) had not yet been formed and so these areas do not show doubling in the final image.
TD >>
Looking again at the 1873 DDO, in that lofty state of preservation I can see as many as three separate hubbings with doubled elements near the center of the die, with rotation of as much as 90 degrees. I had an example in AU a few years ago and I always wondered what the sharp horizontal lines were from; now I see they are in the gown too, and they don't line up with any of the other marks and thus could represent another hubbing.
I also think it's interesting to see the doubling on the bottom of the staff, folds of the dress, etc which are not visible on lower grade coins. It looks to me now like this was a case of pivoted hub doubling, with the pivot point around K-1. By the time you get to the doubled elements in the bottom of the base, they are separated by almost ten degrees.
I'd like to thank whoever bought the die maker that extra round of drinks the night he cut this die.
Sean Reynolds
EDITED with a fresh look at the pictures, I was talking out my ear previously
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor