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basic clemente set on low budget...what would you do?

Ok, to get it out of the way, I know I should do what makes me happy, but I don't know yet what that is, so I am asking what you do in my situation;
I want to put together a clemente topps run, and based on my budget, I came up with these 2 options that are realistic for me in the next year or two;
options
1) Straight PSA 5, (expensive rookie, but for the late years, not ideal with low grade cards)
2) nicest PSA 2 rc, PSA5 for 56-59, PSA6 for 60-66, PSA7 for 67-73

I don't have the patience to work a higher grade set by buying1 really nice card every 4 months and finish in 5 years.

Put your self in low budget shoes, what would you prefer?
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Comments

  • I don't know how quickly you are looking to obtain them (You just said you wouldn't take 5 years, not sure how much less you are thinking image)

    Personally I would see if there are any super nice rookies available at a solid price and just work in your price range for whatever you want.

    I don't think you should limit yourself to those two options (unless that is what you plan to do).

    Just whatever is solid grade/price at the time - I'm sure there are some 7's you would be more happy with than 8's.
  • If that decision were mine, I would go with the PSA 5's across the board option- but I would be incredibly particular about centering, registration, and no print flaws. I would sacrifice corners.
    'Sir, I realize it's been difficult for you to sleep at night without your EX/MT 1977 Topps Tom Seaver, but I swear to you that you'll get it safe and sound.'
    -CDs Nuts, 1/20/14

    *1956 Topps baseball- 97.4% complete, 7.24 GPA
    *Clemente basic set: 85.0% complete, 7.89 GPA
  • alifaxwa2alifaxwa2 Posts: 3,104 ✭✭✭


    << <i>If that decision were mine, I would go with the PSA 5's across the board option- but I would be incredibly particular about centering, registration, and no print flaws. I would sacrifice corners. >>


    Intriguing thought...I will certainly consider that.
    Looking to have some custom cuts or plain custom cards built? PM me.

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  • MBMiller25MBMiller25 Posts: 6,057 ✭✭
    I would go the straight 5 route as well. I would be patient and look to obtain cards that have excellent eye appeal, but with a flaw such as surface wrinkle or dents.

    Good Luck, I had a blast building my Basic set!


  • << <i>I would go the straight 5 route as well. I would be patient and look to obtain cards that have excellent eye appeal, but with a flaw such as surface wrinkle or dents.
    >>



    This.
    Big Fan of: HOF Post War RC, Graded RCs
    WTB: PSA 1 - PSA 3 Centered, High Eye Appeal 1950's Mantle
  • Buy the cards you like and forget the number attached to the flip.
  • HallcoHallco Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Buy the cards you like and forget the number attached to the flip. >>




    image


  • << <i>1) Straight PSA 5, (expensive rookie, but for the late years, not ideal with low grade cards)
    2) nicest PSA 2 rc, PSA5 for 56-59, PSA6 for 60-66, PSA7 for 67-73

    I don't have the patience to work a higher grade set by buying1 really nice card every 4 months and finish in 5 years.

    Put your self in low budget shoes, what would you prefer? >>



    With any budget, I'd start with what you are willing to spend and then work backwards as to what you can afford.

    I can understand the desire to complete a set rather than buying the nicest every 4 months. I've been working on my Nolan Ryan basic for a few years... tracked down many of the cards I've wanted, but it's taken a lot of time, awhile back just to finish it out, I bought a bunch of lower grade, so that the set would be complete and have since been just upgrading... I really like upgrading, because even when you make a big purchase, you have something to sell to start moving you to the next cards.
  • JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 12,005 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Have a little patience and wait until you can pick up the nicest rookie card you can afford, possibly a PSA6 or 7. After that, things should get a lot less expensive. The 1956 really drops in price you could get a 7 or 8. After that I would go no lower than an 8 or 9. This should not take 5 years unless I am spending too much of your money.

    This will accomplish two things; you won't be too tempted to upgrade when you see a nicer one, and what you have will be easier to sell for good value if you decide to move on to another project or just want to cash out.

    This is the strategy I use for Killebrew, and it has worked well for me.

    Joe
    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
  • alifaxwa2alifaxwa2 Posts: 3,104 ✭✭✭
    Appreciate the suggestions, thanks guys.
    Looking to have some custom cuts or plain custom cards built? PM me.

    Commissions

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  • scotgrebscotgreb Posts: 809 ✭✭✭
    I would not be too quick to dismiss the possibility buying raw and getting them graded yourself -- at least for some of the cards. There is never a shortage of presentable raw Clemente cards on the market.

    With a good eye and a liitle luck I believe you could cut your costs substantially. Of course you run the risk of buying altered cards but unless your buying very high grade that risk is fairly low IMO.

    I would buy your rookie already graded but think you can have success with the others.

    The market for graded Clemente is always strong so you can always sell those that grade below what you want for your collection or as you upgrade along the way.

    My 2c

    Scott
  • 76collector76collector Posts: 986 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I really like upgrading, because even when you make a big purchase, you have something to sell to start moving you to the next cards.

    Buy the cards you like and forget the number attached to the flip.

    I totally agree with these two points. A lot of the fun in collecting is getting that new card, even if it is a (2 or a 3) as long as it is acceptable to you and fits your collection. While you are working through completing your set, if one of the 2's or 3's is no longer acceptable to you, upgrade it ! Bottom line, have fun, and try to stay within your budget. A lot of the enjoyment of collecting is ruined when you spend beyond your means, and your stressing about the purchase, instead of just enjoying the card you got.
    I cannot hit curveball. Straightball I hit it very much. Curveball, bats are afraid.
    Collecting:
    post world war II HOF rookie
    76 topps gem mint 10 commons 9 stars
    Arenado purple refractors(Rockies) Red (Cardinals)
    successful deals with Keevan, Grote15, 1954, mbogoman
  • jay0791jay0791 Posts: 3,554 ✭✭✭✭
    For one point you picked Clemente. He's near the top of the price scale for post war players.
    So you are in for some $$$$$ Great choice. He's on everyone's list inc me.

    buy the card not the case. Clemente is always sellable in any grade so you will have no problem upgrading and selling.

    A nice psa 5 with eye appeal is a good buy.

    Welcome to the set.
    Collecting PSA... FB,BK,HK,and BB HOF RC sets
    1948-76 Topps FB Sets
    FB & BB HOF Player sets
    1948-1993 NY Yankee Team Sets
  • ArchStantonArchStanton Posts: 1,182 ✭✭✭
    I am pretty pleased with my Clemente collection. It is mostly mid-grade. I am only concerned about upgrading my 1970 ASAP, and eventually the rookie.

    Just buy what you like. It is a marathon, not a sprint. If you feel rushed, then buy some of the newer, less expensive cards and take your time on the bigger purchases. So what if it takes five years. Do you plan to quit collecting any time soon?

    My Clementes
    Collector of 1976 Topps baseball for some stupid reason.
    Collector of Pittsburgh Pirates cards for a slightly less stupid reason.
    My Pirates Collection
  • alifaxwa2alifaxwa2 Posts: 3,104 ✭✭✭


    << <i>So what if it takes five years. >>



    because that takes all the fun out collecting an 19 card set
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