how much value before you certify?

bosco5041

I know this is just an opinion but give me your number. I've seen a lot of common coins in lower grades certified. Coins worth $50. I haven't sent any coins in for quite a while but I would like to.I don't even know exactly what it cost to certify at PCGS. Also, what is the most economical way to send in , lets say 5 or 10 coins?

Billet7

If I feel it will increase the coins value and I can still sell the coin for what I've got into it, then I see no reason not to certify it, it makes selling so much easier.

That said, unless I'm working on a specific registry set, I usually prefer the coin to be worth more than $100 AND have enough room in it (pricewise) that I can still sell it for at least $130 (to make up for the certification costs.) I know this is a much lower value coin than most people will certify, I think most people on the forum are batting in the $500 range.

MidLifeCrisis

Depends on your reason for certification. I've got one coin in my collection that I paid about $35 for...but it has sentimental value so I had it slabbed.

Generally though, I'd say $100.

BryceM

Most of the low value coins in slabs were submitted by people who were gambling that they'd grade higher.

I've had some low-value coins slabbed for sentimental reasons. It provides a nice home for them to live in and they're harder (but not impossible) to loose. Most of the time it needs to be worth over $100 to consider slabbing, and then only if you're pretty confident it will grade.

You might try looking up rates and submission procedures on PCGS's website, easily reached from the "Quick Links" menu in the upper-right-hand part of your screen. That information is easy to find.

RedHerring

<< <i>That said, unless I'm working on a specific registry set, I usually prefer the coin to be worth more than $100 AND have enough room in it (pricewise) that I can still sell it for at least $130 (to make up for the certification costs.) I know this is a much lower value coin than most people will certify, I think most people on the forum are batting in the $500 range. >>



I'm with Billet7 here. $100 coin is a minimum value on which I would ever CONSIDER slabbing and that's when I feel the value added could cover the costs.

Generally I'm at $150 or more.

Billet7

I usually wait until I have at least 5 coins, hopefully more (6-8 is my comfort zone.)

FYI I've sent in some stupid coins before, gambling for a high grade. Recently I sent in a Pres Dollar, I was pulling for a 67 (which would have been a thousand+ dollar coin) alas I ended up with a 66 (a 30 dollar coin.) Sometimes it's the gamble that makes all those low grade coins in holders.

Sonorandesertrat

$500

Type2

I have sent coins in that are only worth a nickel to some but worth two or three hunderd to others so it's your $$$$ do as you want with it if you like the coin don't let some one tell you not to send it in your paying for it not them.... But that is just me Type2.

Barndog

tightbudget

Around $150-200 for me with the exception of generic gold. For generic gold, only if it's uncirculated.

Broadstruck

Over 3 figures.

WaterSport

Value is not a factor for me, its about collecting, convenience or easy storage.

WS

LeeBone

Sometimes it`s not the value but other reasons.

crypto79

I don't have a basal value more so as I do it per the significance of the coin to me. Most of the coins I collect need to be in plastic because of the public's fear of counterfeits so it is my default option.

DennisH

No rhyme or reason for me. Over $100 for sure, but the value of the coin in a holder vs. not also plays a role. So does what I paid for it. I do Everyman Registry sets, so that makes some of what I do look pretty absurd too. Lots of gray area for me on this topic.

astrorat

<< <i>I know this is just an opinion but give me your number. I've seen a lot of common coins in lower grades certified. Coins worth $50. I haven't sent any coins in for quite a while but I would like to.I don't even know exactly what it cost to certify at PCGS. Also, what is the most economical way to send in , lets say 5 or 10 coins? >>

The more coins submitted the more economical the cost per coin as there are fixed costs (fees) associated with each submission, namely the $8 processing fee and the "base" cost of postage and insurance).

Cameonut

When I first started, my rule of thumb was to buy only certified coins when the price was above $100.

Once I learned to grade and looked at thousands of coins, I felt much better about raising that limit to more like $750 or so.

So I used the TPG's as a safety net until I learned the ropes.

RYK

It depends a lot on the coin, series, my objectives (is it for an album or registry?), etc., but I would say that in the $300-500 range, especially for gold coins, I like to be certified.

Aegis3

For me, maybe around a trillion dollars, give or take.

SeattleSlammer

Aegis3, you posting for TDN?

TwoSides2aCoin

I never know how much value before. I usually find out how much value after. But a target price I shoot for deciding which coins to submit is typically $150+

I don't see much reason for coins below that value for slabbing unless it is a key or rare date needing authentication, considering 30% of the value is eaten up in a $100 coin after expenses, it just isn't economically feasible. If building a VF or XF set , or any low grade set, I could see reasons for doing it.

Value is often times an unforeseen, since every collector is uniquely different in doing what makes him/her happy. But for me, ... I like to stand a chance at getting my money back out of the submittal fees incurred.

bosco5041

Thanks for all your replies. I think I am in the $200 min. range. I just see tons of low value coins on popular websites certified and I wonder who sending them all in. It don't seem to be cost effective unless they are economy service which may be what they are doing. I just have several coins that are from my earlier collecting days and they are common but nice coins that I'm sure would for the most part certify but not be cost effective. To give a example I'm talking about say Liberty seated quarters and halves in VF to EF and Barber quarters and halves the same grade.

coinman23885

$300

metalmeister

At least $125

Caleb

<< <i>I know this is just an opinion but give me your number. I've seen a lot of common coins in lower grades certified. Coins worth $50. I haven't sent any coins in for quite a while but I would like to.I don't even know exactly what it cost to certify at PCGS. Also, what is the most economical way to send in , lets say 5 or 10 coins? >>



We use the "modern" level, $14 per coin and as long as the coin is a listable variety, we will send it in. For "errors", we use NGC because they are more reasonably priced.

BaseballAbs

I don't bother buying it if it's readily available in the holder already. It has to be either harder to acquire, or have some money in it once I sell it. If I love the coin and want to keep it that works too.

Worth at least $100 more than the fee's and cost I have into it is what I try to do now.