1933 Goudey Baseball Cards: Ruth, Gehrig, Foxx, & Ott - Are these Legit or Fakes? - Scan Heavy -

Meatloaf

I have come across a seller looking to unload some 1933 Goudey baseball cards. There are 75 total in the lot, but mostly commons. However, he does have a few "eye openers." I have used all the resources I could find on the web to determine if these are real or counterfeits. Based on the ink red bleed-through from the "gum" banner and misalignment of the banner, I think these are good. However, I am not the greatest on this sort of thing and I am seeking support from the forum here. I have posted some high res scans below. For those who have a history purchasing raw cards of this caliber, please chime in on their likely legitimacy. Thank you. Meatloaf

ptper

They all look gook to me. Usually if you can see the outline from the front bleed through on the back, it is a good sign. Look at the Jimmy Foxx card and you can see his outline on the back of the card. Reprints do not have this.

The wear seems appropriate and the missing piece on the Gehrig shows what the paper should look like underneath the surface.

Sean1125

No comment but good luck hopefully they are authentic it would be a nice find.

vintagechris

Good. One thing to always look for on that Ruth to determine if it is a reprint is the Babe's hat. On the reprints it touches where the yellow and white on the border touch. The originals have a space like this one.

Another dead give away for the Ruth is the # on the back. The card is mis cut and has Jimmie Foxx's number on the back of the card at the bottom. The actual # 144 for the Babe is missing. This would be the correct positioning as well as the Foxx was just below Ruth on the sheet before they were cut.

Meatloaf

First, thank you to all for your solid opinions. I value you them greatly and they has enlightened me. I am more of a modern collector, so when I stumbled upon these pre-war cards, I really didn't know what I was looking at. Anyway, I am going to move forward with a deal to obtain the cards. Hopefully I can get the right price. The seller seems fair and understands the condition of the cards shall drive the price, not some “book value.” You gouge on the ink bleed and centering is very helpful.

Second, just as an aside, a forum member PMed me and said to post the scans on the net54 forums because there are a ton of pre-war card collectors there that would have experienced opinions. I did this and they share the CU forum assessments. TY for this advice.

Finally, I have a follow up question. As a modern collector, I have used PSA and BGS for my card grading needs. I went to PSA a lot because I used to get great rates for bulk orders (1000+ cards submitted at once for grading). For BGS, I went to them anytime I needed a thick relic card graded because I hate the PSA oversized holders for large relics. Anyway, I have heard SGC may be the best company for grading when dealing with pre-war cards in order to max long term value. So…

-What are your opinions here on this issue?

-What company would you recommend for grading if the goal is to max out long term value (specifically for the pre-war cards in these scans)?

Thank you again.

Meatloaf

Meatloaf

And another follow on question, what would these things graded out as in your opinion? How would SGC or PSA tread the ruth card with the off center printing on the back? Meatloaf

Sean1125

SGC is a solid option for all pre war, but imo between PSA and SGC go with whoever gives you the better deal for grading the lot. Pretty equal in my books.

orioles93

I personally would send them to PSA, but SGC is very good to. As for grades id say: Ruth- 2 or 3, Gehrig- 1, Foxx- 3, and Ott- 3.

Piggs

Great color and clarity on the Ott card. Good luck with the purchase.

Yankees001

They look good to me. Personally I do not like buying ungraded high dollar cards.

Good luck.

Dave

MantleMarisFordBerra

Good. BTW, the red on the back of the cards is not a bleed thru, but rather a wet transfer. When the cards where printed they were stacked on top of one another and the wet ink form the card on the bottom would transfer tot he one on top. Just a lil' FYI. Great advice from vintagechris, the distance from hat to border (and also bandstand to boarder) was the first thing I looked at as well.

vintagechris

For grades, I say Ruth=2, Gehrig=1, Ott and Foxx 2 with both a possible 3 I like the Foxx condition wise better than the Ott. If you wanted to sell the Foxx I would be interested as I am looking for one in about this condition. I am looking for a Ruth as well but the cut bothers me and I would rather wait on a better one.

PM me if you end up getting them and want to sell the Foxx. Congrats on the nice cards.

yankeeno7

What a wonderful lot of cards! That particular Ruth is my all time favorite. One notable thing about that Ruth...as someone previously stated about the wet transfer...take a good look at the card reverse...someone handling a wet sheet has left a fingerprint on the back of the Ruth card from wet sheet handling. Absolutely love it!

Meatloaf

<< <i>What a wonderful lot of cards! That particular Ruth is my all time favorite. One notable thing about that Ruth...as someone previously stated about the wet transfer...take a good look at the card reverse...someone handling a wet sheet has left a fingerprint on the back of the Ruth card from wet sheet handling. Absolutely love it! >>



Wow, did not see that until now. Old School, baby. They don't make them like the used to. Thanks to the overs on the wet transfer info. Meatloaf

onebamafan

Unless from a reputable dealer i trusted there is no way i buy ungraded. Also, i do not feel comfortable these cards are all legit.

otwcards

Look good to me...

All of the tell-tale signs of being legit are there and the tell-tale hints of counterfeits are absent. That's always a good thing. Good luck with the purchase.

fkw

100% authentic

very easy to authenticate with the nice large scans and card wear

collector grade ie PSA1-PSA3
the Ruth is cool, Ive never seen a R319 back that OC (not common within R319), Id actually price it the same as if it has a normal back (ie a small premium that would = out the value loss of a OC back)

hopefully you didnt miss the boat as I see he has now put them up for auction, and hopefully someone on these boards doesnt shark you on them
good luck, nice cards

PS please dont call it "Bleed Through" its not, as that would be obviously impossible, the correct term is "Wet Sheet Transfer" ... the ink residue on back of most R319 cards is from the sheets being stacked before the ink had dried completely, leaving a imprint on the back from the sheet directly below.