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Collecting in grade PSA "X", can you forget about (insert preference here)?

Lets say you were interested in collecting a player in all PSA 5's or 6's. Would that mean that you should forget about centering, if the slabs are something you'd like to be able to pick up more often then not?

Big Fan of: HOF Post War RC, Graded RCs
WTB: PSA 1 - PSA 3 Centered, High Eye Appeal 1950's Mantle

Comments

  • Everyone has their individual preference. For me, centering is the key to overall eye appeal of the card I’m looking to pick up. For example, I was looking for a PSA 6-7 55 Topps Koufax. I kept passing on 6 and 7’s that came up on eBay, as the centering did not suit my eye. Then, the below card was for sale. I ended up purchasing this card even though it was lower grade, because I liked the overall eye appeal of the card. Just my 2 cents.


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  • digicatdigicat Posts: 8,551 ✭✭
    Centering isn't the only grading criteria.

    I've seen some beautiful cards that suffer from critical flaws not necessarily visible at first glance, like a hidden crease, a small pin hole, paper loss on the back, etc.
    My Giants collection want list

    WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
  • I prefer nice corners and the like over centering. Ideally of course I would like the card to be perfect, but on some high dollar cards I will settle for the sharp o/c one.
    Collecting PSA graded Steve Young, Marcus Allen, Bret Saberhagen and 1980s Topps Cards.
    Raw: Tony Gonzalez (low #'d cards, and especially 1/1's) and Steve Young.
  • Maybe i didnt state what i was asking correctly. i will try it another way ...

    Lets say i wanted to collect Roger Maris Topps Base Cards ONLY in PSA 6 Slabs, with at least AWESOME centering.
    Throwing "cost" out the window ... is this something that is feasible without it taking YEARS to complete?

    Big Fan of: HOF Post War RC, Graded RCs
    WTB: PSA 1 - PSA 3 Centered, High Eye Appeal 1950's Mantle
  • NickMNickM Posts: 4,895 ✭✭✭
    There are two issues here:
    1. Are there any of Roger Maris's base Topps cards that are notoriously tough to find well-centered?
    2. Is a Maris PSA 6 of each year something that people would regularly submit for grading if they accurately assess the card's grade?

    If the answers are no to #1 and yes to #2, then it shouldn't be much trouble. Otherwise, you're likely to need to at least do a lot of searching through raw cards yourself for something to submit.

    Nick
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  • You can check VCP data on the player/card/grade level to determine the volume/frequency of transactions of each card in the set. At a PSA 6 level, you might find a couple of transactions per month. That kind of frequency should give you enough options to put the set together within a reasonable time frame. Conversely, at the PSA 9 level, you might see only 1 or 2 examples come up in a year, which is going to make a multi-year project.
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  • Off, the subject, and more on the direction bubblebathgirl and myself was commenting on...

    I would still take the oc version, and it isnt the oc 6 vs the non oc 6 question, in that case, of course, the non-oc is worth more every day in auction. The perfectly centered 6...other things equal to the ebay eye...will go for more then the oc 7. (Just referring to straight grades). So, I am saying I will take the oc 7....which is almost pack fresh...the main problem obvious, over the 6...which is likely "loved" a little too much or flaws hidden.

    Here is a Bradshaw RC I picked up this weekend that is 6 but oc. Easy 7 maybe 8 if centering was just a little better.

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    Now here's another 6....better centering, but worse corners, edges and a brown spot.

    image


    Both were the same price, which would you rather have...better centered or better corners? Of course each card is different......but the oc ones can be bargins at times.
    Collecting PSA graded Steve Young, Marcus Allen, Bret Saberhagen and 1980s Topps Cards.
    Raw: Tony Gonzalez (low #'d cards, and especially 1/1's) and Steve Young.
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