To Submit with or without a NO QUALIFIERS Restriction

70ToppsFanatic

Anyone care to comment on their preferences of whether you like to submit cards with a NO QUALIFIERS restriction?

For example, let's say you do a rip of a 1975 Topps BB Rack Pack and get a George Brett RC that is physically perfect,
but the left to right centering is between 70/30 and 75/25. Would you rather it come back slabbed as a PSA 9 (OC)
or as a PSA 7?

Some of those 1970 Series 1 and Series 5 cards I pulled from those racks a few weeks back are REALLY close to the
centering limits (depending on how you measure them...I actually scanned a few of the cards and then imposed a grid
over the enlarged resulting images on the screen and counted grid boxes to see how close they are, and a few are
really close to 65/35 and a few are really close to 70/30).

Also, does anyone have any experience where a slight tilt to a card caused a drop in grade. I have usually found that if
the centering is still within tolerances for a grade at both ends of the tilt (so it is therefore a slight tilt), then no grade
reduction gets made. Anyone have other experiences with tilts?

Thanks in advance for your input.

bobbyw8469

In my opinion it is the same. I know alot of people don't like qualifiers. I am probably one of the few who don't mind them. If I see a card as PSA 9 (OC), that tells me that the centering is the only realy problem with the card. If you have a card PSA 7, it could have a centering issue, corner wear, etc.....

fiveniner

I will take a 9OC on a star card anytime over a 7.There is no point differential as far as the registry is concerned,however I will take the 9 OC no matter what.

cards651

I agree with the 9OC vs. the 7 issue. A 9OC is preferable and seems to hold it's value. However, for older cards in particular the 8OC vs. 6 is another story. I have a number of 8OC and 8PD cards that are close to worthless. At 6 they would not be worth much more but you generally are able to sell a 6 at a fair price. I no longer send in off-centered cards unless it is a valuable star card.

relaxed

Regardless of the card I want the true grade, I'm not a fan of (OC) cards but need to know if it is one.

MBMiller25

I don't like qualifiers on my cards.

ThoseBackPages

<< <i>I don't like qualifiers on my cards. >>



+9

PowderedH2O

Same for me. I'd rather have the 7 than the 9(OC).

chadridge

I am one of those who will pay a premium for a 9 OC over a 7, at least for the '55 and '56 Topps that I collect. The fact that a card 50+ years old is still in Mint condition is appealing to me. The OC represents a manufacturing "error", while the 9 represents how well the original state of the card was preserved over time. I see those as two distinctly different things. I love seeing old cards in Mint condition, but owning a straight 9 from the 50's is a VERY expensive proposition and not realistic for me. 9 OC's allow me to own a card in this condition but for a lot less $$.

Of course, if we're talking 70's cards, mint condition is probably a lot less rare.

Chad

ga5150

I should probably know this, but what is the method you mention? Turn out all the lights and just use one single bright light? And I'm assuming a magnifying glass or loupe also? Is it supposed to be easier to see defects with the one light?


Rodney




<< <i>Don't get many qualifiers these days since I adopted the dark room, single light method ... BUT ... if I ever do those get fire sold as a lot. My next sub is going in as NQs for sure.

I've never bought a card with a qualifier. >>