68 Topps. The bane of my existence.
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I've built this set then broken it three or four times now. I was almost done with it a year ago, then decided to sell off the stars to buy the 52 Mantle. Kept the 68 Mantle and the Bench RC, and a partial set of over 400 commons.
Decided to sell the commons a couple weeks ago. Opened up the album and forgot how nice they were. Now I'm rebuilding the set AGAIN. I need 110 cards to finish it, which is about what I always seem to need.
And I've never found a Ryan RC that I've been 100% satisfied with. Easiest set in the 60's and it's been ridonkulous for me to try and finish.
Decided to sell the commons a couple weeks ago. Opened up the album and forgot how nice they were. Now I'm rebuilding the set AGAIN. I need 110 cards to finish it, which is about what I always seem to need.
And I've never found a Ryan RC that I've been 100% satisfied with. Easiest set in the 60's and it's been ridonkulous for me to try and finish.
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Ron Burgundy
Buying Vintage, all sports.
Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
Buying Vintage, all sports.
Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
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Buying Vintage, all sports.
Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
I'm also building the set and need 108 cards to finish. Would you have duplicate common cards, in EX-MT condition or better, that you would like to sell or trade? I have a whole bunch of duplicates, EX or better, that I could trade or sell.
Thanks,
Lee
WTB: PSA 1 - PSA 3 Centered, High Eye Appeal 1950's Mantle
<< <i>I have a 1968 Dick Dietz PSA 7 I am dying to get rid of. Thought it might grade better. >>
Getting 7's on 1968s is brutal. Now I don't submit a '68 common unless it's a slam dunk 8 with a 50-50 or better chance at a 9 and that depends on the card. A lot of 9s can be had for under 10 bucks. I've got about 150 raw cards from the set I purchased several years back that was the basis for my graded set. Some of them could possibly 8 but it isn't worth the risk of submitting them.
What makes them not worth grading if they arent 8 or better? Return on Investment? Worth less than the card +slabbing fees?
Is this set that abundant in NM and that makes the demand only for the 8 and up level?
Correct answer.
Also, I find it easier to spot corner damage on these as long as you use a loupe.
Joe
<< <i>Ok so let me ask this question:
What makes them not worth grading if they arent 8 or better? Return on Investment? Worth less than the card +slabbing fees?
Is this set that abundant in NM and that makes the demand only for the 8 and up level? >>
1968 is by far the easiest year to source high grade cards. Part of that has to do with the design, part of it has to do with lots of vending runs that survived and I also think Topps had higher printing quality that year for some reason. You don't have the typical print flaws you find with other years.
If your cards have some personal value above the market price, then by all means, slab them. If you are looking to make money on them today or someday, purchase a subscription to VCP and see what the particular cards you want to submit trade for in the market. There aren't too many commons in that set that are worth more than $5 in a PSA 7 grade.
Good Luck,
-Larry
Selling: Everything!
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