Someone clue me in as to why....
olb31
Posts: 3,503 ✭✭✭✭✭
people have psa/dna or jsa authentic auto's without grading the card????? in some cases they don't even grade the auto. this makes absolutely no sense to me. if you have done this please help me understand.
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Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
Buying Vintage, all sports.
Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
I don't believe an autograph can be graded. In time the signature will fade unless it is kept in a dark/dim place. Making the grade invaled.
Besides if the card has writing on it, why grade it. Sorry but the card grade is automatically incorrect. PSA/DNA does not put the MK Qualifier on the label. If the card is not graded correctly, why spend the extra money?
These are a few of my reasons.
I currently have no Graded Auto's in my collection, and odds are their won't be.
Dave
I was an avid autograph hunter in the eighties and early 90's. As a kid in the 80's who was known for his love of autos, I got the same advice from every dealer in knew in south georgia. "Getting an autograph on a card is fine if thats what you like, but just don't have them sign any expensive cards because it will ruin the value" That was the consistent sentiment in eighties and no one would dream of having a rookie card signed. I'm not sure when the sentiment changed but along the way, at some point, people starting pretending that ink on a card isn't really a mark. IMO, it is. I would never pay high $ for an auto'd rookie unless all of the value was in the auto itself, and not the card.
Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
i personally like the grades on both. i think it enhances the value. especially a 10 auto vs authentic auto.
<< <i>If it's vintage, I wouldn't have the card graded. If it's modern, I likely would if I thought it would grade high. I had my 2010 Topps Million Card Giveaway auto card graded as I hoped it would get a 10 (it got a 9). But I own many PSA/DNA autos on 50's and 60's cards and none are graded. Grading the autograph itself, I don't understand, as you can see it easily and most are 9's or 10's. On balls, that it another matter. >>
i am not sure why i get any of mantle's graded when i can plainly see that they are 9's and 10's. come on isn't this why we grade.
My son really likes auto'd cards, me not so much.
First one:
"It really depends on what you are planning on doing with the card, what the issue is and what might be the grade of the card.
For my own collecting purposes:
I started out getting all of mine red flip slabbed, authentic only with no number grade for the card. However, I've changed my mind to red flip slabbed, with grade of the card for the following reason:
I've found that when I'm ready to upgrade one of my cards, and want to sell or trade one of my duplicates, a lot of potential buyers always wonder if there is something "wrong" with the card and why it doesn't have a number grade.
Personally, I don't care for the blue flip slabbed cards with an autograph grade. For two reasons:
1) there is no opinion in most cases as to the authenticity or originality of the card (the card, not the graph)
2) The condition of an improperly (and even a properly) stored autograph can change in a quick period of time. A 10 can become a 6 relatively quickly due to light factors.
For selling purposes - becomes highly variable. If you have an average looking card, but a mint autograph, go with the blue-flipped with autograph grade. A lot of people seem to have an unusual love for a graph graded a 9 or 10 and will pay more for those than just one slabbed authentic. An autograph grade of 9 or 10 is actually quite easy to get as opposed to a card grading a 9 or 10, but people don't seem to pay attention to that observation and will pay a premium for them. If PSA/DNA was as tight with graph grades as they are with card grades, it wouldn't be so easy to get, but the reality is, it is.
If you have a 6-10 quality card older than 1972 or so (just an arbitrary year I picked, no real basis for my pick), then get the red flipped card graded one. People can judge the quality of a graph a lot better with their own eyes than they can the quality of the card. If you have a nice example of a commonly counterfeited, commonly doctored, card, then get it red flipped card graded
If you have a nice, eye appealing vintage card that has a small technical flaw that would kill the card grade (like a very small paper loss on the back, then have it either blue flipped with auto grade, or red flipped authentic with no card grade (be sure and disclose the flaw when you sale though).
Like I indicated, really just depends on the individual card and graph.
Mike "
Second one:
"I prefer the red flips with card grade unless the card is a beater and worth relatively little as a card itself (if it was unsigned):
1)When PSA slabs an autographed card in a blue flip, they are only making an opinion as to the authenticity of the autograph, they are not making an opinion as to the authenticity of the card itself. For cards that are valuable, this is extremely important, because if you buy a blue flipped autographed card, you have no independent verification that the card itself is authentic and unaltered, you only have verification that the auto is legit. If you call PSA and ask them, they will tell you that a card grader and authenticator, never reviews the blue flipped cards, only an autograph authenticator does. Thus, say for instance you are purchasing a Mickey Mantle signed rookie card, wouldn’t you want to know that BOTH the graph and the card are good as opposed to only knowing that the sig was good, but not knowing that the card might be a counterfeit?? With the red flips, PSA is making a judgement on BOTH the autograph and the card.
2) When you send in a card for a blue flip, you have to pay different and higher fees (unless you catch a special) based on different signers. IE, Michael Jordan is $100, Tiger is $100, common player is $20, Mantle is $75 or so, etc. When you send in a card for a red flip, you pay one set price unless the card itself is valued over $500.00 then you simply pay the next level up for that one. It is far cheaper to get cards slabbed with the red, then with the blue. I think PSA does that because the red flips can only be gotten by ($$$ members only) while the blue flips could be gotten by anyone.
3) I personally don’t like the grading scales on the blue flipped autographs. It is far too easy. 10’s are passed out like candy so to me it waters down the desirability of the numeric grade (perhaps not for the short term, but for the long term when people figure it out) . Additionally, autographs are subject to environmental factors way more than cards are, so a blue flip autographed card might be a 10 today, and then in two years if exposed to light, you might not even be able to see the graph, however, it will still be housed in a 10 holder. To me, that’s totally bogus and I don’t see the long term market being able to sustain premium prices for high grades on routine graphs. Additionally, a person’s own eyes can easily discern the eye appeal of a graph, they don’t need a grader to call it a 10 to know that It is bold, clear, and typical of the signer.
4) I buy and sell all the time, and I’ve found that it is far easier to sell autographed cards at better prices that are in a red flip with card grade then blue flip either with or without autograph grade (with a few exceptions of course and only applies to the items I deal in, signed rookie cards). For high dollar items, if it is in a blue flip, the first question people ask is “Is the card authentic and unaltered?”¨, if it’s in a red flip with “Authentic” only, (in other words, no card grade), then the first question they ask is “Is the card unaltered?”. I’ve found that even low graded cards in red flips tend to sell for more then ones just graded authentic. People seem to understand that for a variety of reasons, autographed cards are much harder to obtain in high card grades, then unautographed cards due to the reasons that damage can occur at so many points of the autograph acquisition. This also tremendously helps the sale of high grade red flipped autographed cards.
Just my two cents,
Mike"
Hope that helps some,
Mike
Personally if it's a card I will look to sell sometime in the near future I will blue flip it with number grade.
If it's a card for my collection I go with the red flip and most older cards get the number grade since I want to know the auto is real and the card is real.
Basically just understand the game blue vs. red flip and pick which works for you!