Scans of some older cards and Question on some older Musial cards

MacrosB

To get off unopened Material for a minute, I have some questions about a couple of older Musial cards I have. I have never used a grading service and in fact when they were starting up in the 80s I hated the thought of them because I couldnt imagine wanting a card put away like that so it could never be easily gotten to. I also know about all the fraud that has gone on in the coin grading side. So my question is, at this point would it be worthwhile to get may cards graded? Does it only matter if you are going to sell them. Also what are your thoughts on these two cards in the type of grades they might get? I thank for your help in this area of the hobby that I have absolutely no experience.

1948 Bowman Musial


1952 Bowman Musial
I don't know how well it comes through on the scan but the color on this card is amazing. At least to me.


Thank-you for your input.

Jim

jmoran19

The 48 Stan looks like a 6 maybe a 7 on a good day depending on the white spot on the back of the card, if it's a foreign substance that will bring it down.

The other stan looks like a 7 or 8 to me, nice cards.

Also be careful taking them out of those screwed down holders sometimes if tighten too much the card will stick to the case. If this happens put it in the freezer over night before trying to remove as you don't want any paper loss.

JOhn

Dboneesq

Jim,

The first thing I would do is take them out of those old holders! Put them in the newer screw downs, the ones that are recessed, or in card saver 1s. The screw down you have it in can damage the corners.

As far as getting them graded? I vote DEFINITELY!

cpamike

I agree with Doug. Take Stan out of those screwdowns asap and into newer ones. As John said, just be careful when you go to take them out and the freezer trick works really well.

I'm old school like you. Most of my sets are in binders as I like to look at them from time to time when I get the urge to rip open my unopened packs. If you were looking to sell them, then you would definitely realize more if you got them graded by PSA.

twiley

<< <i>Jim,

The first thing I would do is take them out of those old holders! Put them in the newer screw downs, the ones that are recessed, or in card saver 1s. The screw down you have it in can damage the corners.

As far as getting them graded? I vote DEFINITELY! >>



I agree 100% those holders are bad. Especially if the cards ever were in humidity. I had a Jeter card loose ink from those holders and never used them ever again. I stick to card savers and protective sleeves. Those cards should be in a PSA slab though.

MacrosB

Thanks for all the advice. I have quite a few older cards in these holders so i am interested in getting them out. Where would you get indented card holders and what are you actually describing when you say card savers? If you send themin to PSA what do you usually send them in? Thank-you for your help.

Jim

cpamike

Here is a link to an auction for card savers.

Card Saver I

Any cards I've seen have been submitted to PSA in card savers.

twiley

Here is what I use Card Saver 1

I also use these before putting them in the card savers Penny Sleeves

PSA will require you to send the cards in card saver 1 anyway. At first I didn't like them because I was used to the top loaders but now card savers are the only thing I will use.

Edit Add: Columbia usually is the best place to pick up card savers for cheap prices...

MacrosB

Thanks,

So these fit all cards? At least the normal 48 - present cards?
I guess I am really behind the times on keeping things up to date.
The big thing back in my day was having to change out all my cards from one type of plastic page to another because of issues with the orignal pages and the chemicals in them. That was alot of pages to change out. Of course it could of been a big bunch of nothing and I spent all that money for no reason.

You all have been a big help.

Jim

MacrosB

BTW, are the other card saver 2, 3, and 4 just different sizes?

Jim

Dboneesq

<< <i>Edit Add: Columbia usually is the best place to pick up card savers for cheap prices... >>


AGREED! I can't seem to get them any cheaper than from Columbia on ebay.

PS Look at all their BIN auctions, as they sometimes have different prices for the exact same items!

jmoran19

<< <i>BTW, are the other card saver 2, 3, and 4 just different sizes?

Jim >>



Yes. PSA recommends you use card saver 1's to submitted non tall boys (ie 1965 FB, 1969 & 1970 Basketball, etc). Card savers 4 for tall boys.

Also, most penny sleeves only fit 2 1/2 by 3 1/2 cards or smaller, if you need them for pre 1957 Topps cards make sure you get the correct size.

John

twiley

<< <i>Thanks,

So these fit all cards? At least the normal 48 - present cards?
I guess I am really behind the times on keeping things up to date.
The big thing back in my day was having to change out all my cards from one type of plastic page to another because of issues with the orignal pages and the chemicals in them. That was alot of pages to change out. Of course it could of been a big bunch of nothing and I spent all that money for no reason.

You all have been a big help.

Jim >>



Jim the card saver 1 will fit the normal size 48 to present. The over sized cards won't. Thick cards will. I hear ya on the changing out. I had to do the same thing way back when. I also changed out again from pages to PS and TL. Then I changed out yet again from PS and TL to PS and CS1

grote15

I would slip them into a penny sleeve before putting them in card savers. Columbia is the best and quickest and they usually ship for free which helps with bulk orders. The larger lot you buy the better the price.

Those are great cards, jim! Seeing all this and listening to your stories is almost like meeting someone from a time machine! Great stuff!

MacrosB

Are all the peeny sleeves basically the same. I do need some for my 52 - 56 Topps also. Do you have a recommendation for who would have those?

Jim

Aric

Are you guys suggesting he store cards in CardSavers permanently or just for sending to PSA? I thought it was generally accepted that CardSavers are not good for long-term storage. Is this not true?

pmcollectour

Ebay is your friend on those penny sleeves. If you're an old time cardboard holder and sniffer, then keep those nice cards the way they are.

If you're looking to sell, then you can get them graded as long as you take a loupe to see if there are any surface wrinkles on any
of your cards. If they only have slight corner touches, then you can get them graded.

This may not come as a suprise to many here, but sometimes raw cards can bring more then graded cards. Having said that, getting
them graded will take away people's suspicions on ebay that they are trimmed.

fkw

The most important thing to do it put all cards in a PENNY SLEEVE before you put it into a holder of any kind (toploader, card saver, screwdown, etc.)

as for grading the cards, you havent done it yet, no need to ever do it unless you plan to sell the cards.

If you do grade..... the 1948 looks like a 4-5 to me with the spot in middle of the back (if thats on the card), the 1952 is nicer at maybe a 5-7


Me....... I only use toploader and always penny sleeves (or postcard sleeves for larger cards). I dont like card savers and never have, yet I do have some I purchased in them and left them alone.

IMO Card savers are too flimsy and will damage corners and edges if you dont take your time loading them, plus they are sharp along the edges and can cause "paper cuts", plus the name "CARD SAVER" on top is tacky and cheep looking and takes away from the eye appeal if you display the cards.

MacrosB

<< <i>The most important thing to do it put all cards in a PENNY SLEEVE before you put it into a holder of any kind (toploader, card saver, screwdown, etc.)

as for grading the cards, you havent done it yet, no need to ever do it unless you plan to sell the cards.

If you do grade..... the 1948 looks like a 4-5 to me with the spot in middle of the back (if thats on the card), the 1952 is nicer at maybe a 5-7


Me....... I only use toploader and always penny sleeves (or postcard sleeves for larger cards). I dont like card savers and never have, yet I do have some I purchased in them and left them alone.

IMO Card savers are too flimsy and will damage corners and edges if you dont take your time loading them, plus they are sharp along the edges and can cause "paper cuts", plus the name "CARD SAVER" on top is tacky and cheep looking and takes away from the eye appeal if you display the cards. >>



I would think it would be difficult to get a card in a sleeve into a toploader. It seems like it would be hard to even start the card in and if you did, wouldn't the slleve bunch up? Of course you all have done it and I have never tried. Maybe top loaders are a liitle different style the 10 to 12 years ago also.

Jim

leadoff4

I'll say your '48 Musial is a 5 and the 52 is a 7.5. The '52 looks very nice and maybe capable of an 8 but it's hard to tell unless you scan it out of the holder. Along with the others, I recommend Columbia Sports for Card Savers. Looking forward to more of your raw card scans!

MacrosB

I can understand the need to scan out of the holder but I just imagine the risk of dinging something up getting it on and off of the scanner. What about the comment earlier that card savers are not good for long term storage. Is that true or have people had no problems using them? Also still wondering about the ease of putting sleeves into top loaders. Thank-you for your help.
For my next scans, should I show the other cards I am messing up in screw down holders first?

Jim

Dboneesq

<< <i>For my next scans, should I show the other cards I am messing up in screw down holders first? Jim >>



Show 'em all Jim ... ESPECIALLY the older unopened!

WinPitcher

I can't grade the 48. The 52 appears (to me anyway) as a 6.5.

Nice cards, thanks for sharing.

Welcome too!

fiveniner

With my past experience with both cards plan at a 5 to 5.5 on the 48 and a 7 on the 52.Both very nice cards.The Musial and the Spahn from the 48 are often off centered.Your 48 is nice.

MacrosB

Ok here is a couple more scans and looking for input on need to grade or not. These are not the cards in my sets. Please ignore the prices as I took these to see if they would sell at a showin Nashville in the late 80's. Obviously they did not. I know it is best to scan out of the holder for grading but I am trying to minimize transfering the cards and if it is best to put them in card savers and would rather wait to get some. At least they are not screw down holders this time. Thank-you for your help. BTW they are not for sale at this time in case someone was wondering.




And I did notice the 2 Bench corners which makes me wonder about submitting this card.

MacrosB

Is there any way to edit a thread title?

Jim

jmoran19

Yes, you should always grade your HOF rookie cards from the 60's and older. Big demand for them in 6's and 7's since 8's are out of most people's price brackett.

The bench would get a 5 or 6, probably would do just as well selling raw on ebay.

cpamike

<< <i>Is there any way to edit a thread title? >>



Yes, Jim just go edit your original post in the beginning of the thread and you can edit the title.

pdub1819

Wow! I would love any of the cards you've posted!
BTW, I usually scan my cards while they are in card saved 1's. I just crop them.
Get everything you've posted graded:

MacrosB

Still wondering if anyone had any input on the earlier messages that CS 1 was not thebest thing for long term storage and should use top loaders instead and just use CS 1 for submitting for grading.
Also, does anyone has a good seller for penny sleeves for 52-56 cards?

Jim Nehls

MacrosB

Guess I need a little more clarification. When I hear someone say top loader I just think of a holder that loads from the top. I which case it looks like the CS 1 is a top loader. When you all say top loader do you mean a specific brand or just something similar to what the last 3 cards I scanned are in? Is there a specific brand op top loaders that are considered better than the others? Thanks for helping me out with some of these questions. I hate changing things out and hope to only do it once.

I think I figured out that since the penny sleeves are 3 x 4 they can be used for the 52-56 Topps as well as the 57 to present. Just a little slow here.

Thanks for the advice on using penny sleeves and the freezer trick.

Jim

cpamike

<< <i>Still wondering if anyone had any input on the earlier messages that CS 1 was not thebest thing for long term storage and should use top loaders instead and just use CS 1 for submitting for grading. >>



Jim, I don't really submit cards for grading as I like to look at the cards in binders and have no intention of selling any of my raw sets, but I do have a number of Card Saver I holders which I've received cards in from eBay purchases and I personally do not like to keep my cards in them. I'll put them in a penny sleave and then in a top loader to store them, but mostly I'll put them in binders for various sets I'm working on. I would only use the Card Saver I holders if I were to submit cards to PSA. This is only my opinion and I tend to be old school like you.

pmcollectour

I prefer the Card Save I holders for storing my raw cards. They are very thin, and if I drop one (as I do quite often), then no damage is done.

grote15

I always use Card Savers I to store cards I'm thinking of submitting to PSA as they are large enough to protect the card and thin enough to store many cards in a small space. I'd say that cards are safe in CS 1s for at least a year or longer. If you're planning to keep the cards raw, I'd say that binders would be a good idea if you can find the ones that are PVC free and that won't stick to cards over time. I always use a penny sleeve before sliding the card into the Card Saver.

The Jackson and Bench cards are in the EX-MT-NM range, with Jackson closer to NM, though I think the Bench may not grade because due to being Miscut. The Ryan looks to be NM though it may get an OC qualifier. Very nice cards!

leadoff4

I may be wrong, but I think the Jackson could pull an 8 and the Bench has a decent shot at a 7... remember, these scans are very magnified. Not sure on the Ryan. It's hard to guess '68s without having the card in hand for me.

MacrosB

Well I guess I am sort of changing the subject a little but what i sthe best way to do PSA grading? Do you join and you get so many scans then from other postings it looks like you get monthly specials?

pmcollectour

PSA offers card and wax pack grading services, along with other services. Click on the service you desire.

PSA Services

MacrosB

Just as a comparison to the Ryan here is a card I would think wouldn't come up that often. This is the 68 OPC Ryan. I have it in plastic so I didn't want to pull it out.



Jim

Dboneesq

Very nice Jim ... I don't have the POP on that Ryan, but I think there have to be a LOT less OPC than TOPPS. What a great card to have.

jimrad

On that 68 Ryan OPC

only 71 graded with
no 10's
no 9's
9 PSA 8's
17 PSA 7's

Huncrelan

Jim, a belated welcome to the board. I recently went thru the same experience as you, minus the hoard of 60's wax you have. I read the old post and asked lots of questions, then I purchased a case of ultra pro penny sleeves and started moving all my cards from binders/ old screwdowns and old yellow toploaders. One important thing I found out was how easy it is to nick the edge of a card with the sharp edges of the penny sleeves ( I praticed with old 90's commons) . Some suggested that you cut off a corner on the penny sleeve to make it easier to insert the card. I ended up making a Jig out of a penny sleeve, I cut off all three seams and inserted the sleeve at a 45 deg angle in a penny sleeve then used 2 pieces of tape to secure it in place then cut off the front lip and made a mark D where I could easily tell the front. It took less than 5 min. to make and has saved me many hours and zero damaged cards. I can load a card in a penny sleeve in less that 3 sec. even with my old eyes and shaky hands. I'll include a scan if you are interested in making one, I hope my explanation makes sense if you decide to make one. Good luck and have fun...

Paul