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How to price A.B and C quality coins

TahoeDaleTahoeDale Posts: 1,785 ✭✭✭
Guides are just guides. as we all have opined over the years. Let's take a look at one coin, in a particular grade, with the guides as a start. And try to get a feel for what one might pay for the variations that can occur.

Flowing Hair dollar(3 leaves) in AU 58. Todays PCGS guide tells us an AU 55 is 27,500, 58 is 40,000 and 60 is 60,000.

Now, let''s define the coin: PCGS graded, not a + on the holder, nor CAC approved. That doesn't mean it will not improve in grade at a later time.

Details: if low end for grade, because of weak strike, adjustment marks in a prime area, slate grey without any color--ie, C quality, then value closer to AU 53 money.

If average or above, then either side of 40K.

But if superior for grade, just a little rub, and a beaut( tho still not unc.), in my opinion way over 60 money( 60,000), and closer to 90,000. Why so much? because it is really rare for an AU 58 FH dollar to be this nice.

There is one like this in the Hesselgesser set of Early dollars, yet to be sold in September, if at all.
TahoeDale

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    tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,662 ✭✭✭✭✭
    A true AU58 [ie: MS63/64 with a trace of rub] has always sold for MS61/62 money in most classic series. That's why they should just get rid of the AU designation and grade coins on a 1-70 scale. What's wrong with pricing an AU62 as a 62?
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    llafoellafoe Posts: 7,220 ✭✭


    << <i>A true AU58 [ie: MS63/64 with a trace of rub] has always sold for MS61/62 money in most classic series. That's why they should just get rid of the AU designation and grade coins on a 1-70 scale. What's wrong with pricing an AU62 as a 62? >>



    I like the idea of a 1-70 scale with no prefixes... but do we still have to include pluses? image
    WANTED: Cincinnati Reds TEAM Cards
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    numobrinumobri Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭


    AU's ain't rare in most cases.image


    Brian
    NUMO
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    BearBear Posts: 18,953 ✭✭✭
    Tahoe, An outstanding thread, that gives an

    easily understood pricing mechanism.

    Well done indeed!image
    There once was a place called
    Camelotimage
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    jomjom Posts: 3,536 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>A true AU58 [ie: MS63/64 with a trace of rub] has always sold for MS61/62 money in most classic series. That's why they should just get rid of the AU designation and grade coins on a 1-70 scale. What's wrong with pricing an AU62 as a 62? >>



    Some people seem to think an AU coins has some sort of disease or something. Most true high end AU coins beat the crap out of lower MS coins...always have always will. Wear is just another "attribute" of a coin and it really isn't any different than bag marks or lack of luster or strike issues. They all degrade the value of the coin. Why wear is arbitrarily set aside as being different is probably just historical...

    jom
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    numobrinumobri Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭


    AU is a good grade to collect.


    Brian
    NUMO
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    jayPemjayPem Posts: 4,097 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd like one in AG3, but it has to be an A coin. I will pay G4 for it though, If it's an A ....
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    AngryTurtleAngryTurtle Posts: 1,610 ✭✭✭
    I think this is something of a trick question, as AU58 probably has the largest price spread between A, B, and C coins. Even so, the spread that Tahoe dale has given from price guide - 53 to 62 seems high to me. I agree with most of TahoeDales logic, and with TDN when he says a pristine coin with just a bit of run should go for 61/62 money. So I guess the 53 seems low to me, I agree on the high end (and have paid that in the past).

    Thinking about this, the comment I have is that AU58 must be the least "market graded" grade, to have this variation. If it was truly market graded , then the grade would give you a price, not multiple possibilities of a price. This I think is because of the very definitive technical definition of what a 58 is - e.g. just a trace of a rub.
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    TahoeDaleTahoeDale Posts: 1,785 ✭✭✭
    Angry Turtle,

    I really appreciate your reply--it is right on concerning the different grades an AU coin can receive.

    From my personal experience, within the last year, I have had an AU 58 ED go from 58 to 62, an AU 58 CBH from 58 to 61, and 2 years ago a CBH from 61 to 58.
    Also, 2 CBH's from AU 55 to 58, and several from AU 53 to 55.

    We dipped an AU 58 half, and it made 61 on the first try.

    Good reasons why there is a large price discrepancy for this grade range. If the series were more common( large pops in these grades), maybe the prices would be closer.
    TahoeDale
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    cardinalcardinal Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I am very familiar with the coin in question, and I have examined it in hand on several occasions. I agree with TahoeDale, the coin is over the top for an AU58, and, except for the lustre breaks on the high points of Liberty's cheek and the eagle's breast, the coin is an impressive MS64 (with a great pedigree to boot). The fields of the coin are extremely lustrous and hairline free -- much more so than the typical MS63 coin.

    What is the price of an AU64? I think TDN is right on at MS62 pricing. This coin's last appearance at auction was before I had examined it in person, and I was shocked at how strong a price it realized (MS62 money at the time); after the auction, I saw the coin and thought the price was a bargain!
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    DonWillisDonWillis Posts: 961 ✭✭✭
    I think you are referring to the Garrett dollar that I bought out of auction and sold to Dr. H. a few years back.

    When it appeared in auction is was in an OGH in AU55. It later upgraded to AU58.

    I paid over $70k for it (check the auction records) and was extremely happy to get it. Dr. H. snapped it up the second he saw it.

    This coin blows away most MS FH dollars that I've seen. The surfaces are exceptionally pure and original with tremendous luster.

    This coin is the quintessential AU58 - MS64 with a touch of rub.


    There are guides and grades, but the most important criteria in buying a coin is the coin.





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    littlebearlittlebear Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>There are guides and grades, but the most important criteria in buying a coin is the coin. >>




    This really says it all, doesn't it? The true essence of numismatics!


    Larry L.


    image
    Autism Awareness: There is no limit to the good you can do, if you don't care who gets the credit.
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    tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,662 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I think you are referring to the Garrett dollar that I bought out of auction and sold to Dr. H. a few years back.

    When it appeared in auction is was in an OGH in AU55. It later upgraded to AU58.

    I paid over $70k for it (check the auction records) and was extremely happy to get it. Dr. H. snapped it up the second he saw it.

    This coin blows away most MS FH dollars that I've seen. The surfaces are exceptionally pure and original with tremendous luster.

    This coin is the quintessential AU58 - MS64 with a touch of rub.


    There are guides and grades, but the most important criteria in buying a coin is the coin. >>



    IF this is the flowing hair dollar that I examined once at a show a few years back [IIRC it was in an OGH and priced about $70k] then I too was blown away by the luster and surfaces. However, the coin had been wiped and one needed to hold it at just the right angle to see all the lines.

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