From what I can tell, 707 is the DOLLAR STORE compared to deans_cards. For what that guy charges, if I ever bought anything from him I would expect it to be delivered to me in a frickin' limo. ~WalterSobchak
Wow with one out of 500+ graded a PSA 10 this must be a tough card.
Is your's the only BGS 9.5?
I have seen many PSA cards sell for much greater then BGS do to stricktness and the registry. Would this card go for similar money to it's PSA Pop 1 counterpart?
>>>>>>>>> Over the years, I had my share of 9.5 Becketts! (Here's scans of a few!)
rd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- guess my Paytons below were at least 1/2s! --------------------------------------------------------------------
Just my opinion here, take it or leave it, no harm intended..........
If I was fortunate enough to turn a $5 card into a $1500 card because of the eye of one grader, I'd put the thing up for sale and pick up the shipping cost on my own dime.
Listing that thing with free shipping would look a lot more inviting than charging $30 to ship a single card, no matter the value.
It might help more than you think.
Again, just my opinion. Good luck again with the sale.
You've already hurt your market, imo. By listing at a high opening bid or with a high BIN you run the risk of outpricing your market and lowering the price that a card like this will bring. If you had ran it as a true auction the first time around I guarantee you would have gotten $1200+ for it. You've now, in effect, conditioned buyers for a lower price and if it doesn't get a bid at $900 then you've lowered it even more.
<< <i>You've already hurt your market, imo. By listing at a high opening bid or with a high BIN you run the risk of outpricing your market and lowering the price that a card like this will bring. If you had ran it as a true auction the first time around I guarantee you would have gotten $1200+ for it. You've now, in effect, conditioned buyers for a lower price and if it doesn't get a bid at $900 then you've lowered it even more. >>
This is exactly right. And that's the key concept for why it's perfectly okay for high volume sellers to utilize high priced BINs. Better to maintain the market and wait for the one person who will meet your price.
Just my opinion here, take it or leave it, no harm intended..........
If I was fortunate enough to turn a $5 card into a $1500 card because of the eye of one grader, I'd put the thing up for sale and pick up the shipping cost on my own dime.
Listing that thing with free shipping would look a lot more inviting than charging $30 to ship a single card, no matter the value.
It might help more than you think.
Again, just my opinion. Good luck again with the sale.
shawn >>
Thanks for the thought. I do list all my other cards with free shipping, but most of them are under $250, no insurance needed. Insurance will be required on this one, probably around $20 worth. Maybe I can lower it a little.
<< <i>You've already hurt your market, imo. By listing at a high opening bid or with a high BIN you run the risk of outpricing your market and lowering the price that a card like this will bring. If you had ran it as a true auction the first time around I guarantee you would have gotten $1200+ for it. You've now, in effect, conditioned buyers for a lower price and if it doesn't get a bid at $900 then you've lowered it even more. >>
This is exactly right. And that's the key concept for why it's perfectly okay for high volume sellers to utilize high priced BINs. Better to maintain the market and wait for the one person who will meet your price. >>
If it doesn't sell this time, I will relist with "buy It now". Not going to let it go for less than $900.
<< <i>If it doesn't sell this time, I will relist with "buy It now". Not going to let it go for less than $900. >>
To make a business decision, you don't need much philosophy; all you need is greed, and maybe a little knowledge of how the game works.
I listed every card I have at 99 cent no reserve auctions, and I've gotten over book value more times than you can imagine.
I have to agree with corvette more than 100%, if you let it run at 99 cents you probably would have brought over 1200, but now that you do the ultra high opening bid people will see that it didn't sell and probably limit themselves to under that
You told me yourself you get higher half the time when you list at 99 cents
<< <i>If it doesn't sell this time, I will relist with "buy It now". Not going to let it go for less than $900. >>
To make a business decision, you don't need much philosophy; all you need is greed, and maybe a little knowledge of how the game works.
I listed every card I have at 99 cent no reserve auctions, and I've gotten over book value more times than you can imagine.
I have to agree with corvette more than 100%, if you let it run at 99 cents you probably would have brought over 1200, but now that you do the ultra high opening bid people will see that it didn't sell and probably limit themselves to under that
You told me yourself you get higher half the time when you list at 99 cents >>
I very rarely run auctions. it's been my experience that I get better prices, with 'buy it now's'. it takes more time though. if it doesn't sell, no big deal. It is still a very valuable card.
<< <i>If it doesn't sell this time, I will relist with "buy It now". Not going to let it go for less than $900. >>
To make a business decision, you don't need much philosophy; all you need is greed, and maybe a little knowledge of how the game works.
I listed every card I have at 99 cent no reserve auctions, and I've gotten over book value more times than you can imagine.
I have to agree with corvette more than 100%, if you let it run at 99 cents you probably would have brought over 1200, but now that you do the ultra high opening bid people will see that it didn't sell and probably limit themselves to under that
You told me yourself you get higher half the time when you list at 99 cents >>
I very rarely run auctions. it's been my experience that I get better prices, with 'buy it now's'. it takes more time though. if it doesn't sell, no big deal. It is still a very valuable card.
Without checking to see if there are bids, I think you should change your price to $1200 (or something close to that) and then if it doesn't sell go with the BIN.
If you use a high starting price, you really should start it exactly where you want it to end since a bidding war becomes much less likely.
When I've used high starting bids with no sale, I've always relisted as a BIN with a slightly higher starting price to offset the higher fvf. Sometimes the cards have sold within 2 days not selling via auction. They all sell eventually, usually within three months.
<< <i>Without checking to see if there are bids, I think you should change your price to $1200 (or something close to that) and then if it doesn't sell go with the BIN.
If you use a high starting price, you really should start it exactly where you want it to end since a bidding war becomes much less likely.
When I've used high starting bids with no sale, I've always relisted as a BIN with a slightly higher starting price to offset the higher fvf. Sometimes the cards have sold within 2 days not selling via auction. They all sell eventually, usually within three months. >>
Thanks for the advice. If i get $900, I will take it, if not then I will do a buy it now.
I very rarely run auctions. it's been my experience that I get better prices, with 'buy it now's'. it takes more time though. if it doesn't sell, no big deal. It is still a very valuable card. >>
Correction . . .
You get "your" price with BIN (if it is executed). No necessarily a better price.
Limited availability items, when properly exposed, tend to do better at auction that they do via BIN (excluded those listed with BO option) or overinflated starting prices.
I very rarely run auctions. it's been my experience that I get better prices, with 'buy it now's'. it takes more time though. if it doesn't sell, no big deal. It is still a very valuable card. >>
Correction . . .
You get "your" price with BIN (if it is executed). No necessarily a better price.
Limited availability items, when properly exposed, tend to do better at auction that they do via BIN (excluded those listed with BO option) or overinflated starting prices. >>
An auction format with a starting bid at $1 may bring you a bigger return, but depending on the market for this kid of card, you could take a beating, too. A BIN format may take longer to sell the card, but you will do so at your price. High risk may bring high reward, but if you don't get at least two bidders interested at your price, that can backfire on you, too. Good luck in whatever you decide..
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>An auction format with a starting bid at $1 may bring you a bigger return, but depending on the market for this kid of card, you could take a beating, too. A BIN format may take longer to sell the card, but you will do so at your price. High risk may bring high reward, but if you don't get at least two bidders interested at your price, that can backfire on you, too. Good luck in whatever you decide.. >>
a .99 auction was definitely the way to get the maximum for this card, but now the only way is to try and get someone to go for a BIN. An auction at this point would bring less because the seller has created a lower market for the card through perceived value. Then again, I could be wrong, it's happened one other time.
Comments
Thanks,
David (LD_Ferg)
1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
<< <i>That is a great!!! Love that card. Are you planning to sell it? >>
Yes, I have not received it yet, but I will sell it.
~WalterSobchak
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep."
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
Collecting:
Any unopened Baseball cello and rack packs and boxes from the 1970's and early 1980s.
1985 Topps #6, #22, #33.
-t206
-e90-1
-e95
-m116
<< <i>Great score!!!! Which card is it?
1985 Topps #6, #22, #33. >>
#33
It's great when that happens...
Donato
Donato's Complete US Type Set ---- Donato's Dansco 7070 Modified Type Set ---- Donato's Basic U.S. Coin Design Set
Successful transactions: Shrub68 (Jim), MWallace (Mike)
Is your's the only BGS 9.5?
I have seen many PSA cards sell for much greater then BGS do to stricktness and the registry. Would this card go for similar money to it's PSA Pop 1 counterpart?
<< <i>Try $1500. >>
$1499
Quicksilver Messenger Service - Smokestack Lightning (Live) 1968
Quicksilver Messenger Service - The Hat (Live) 1971
>>>>>>>>> Over the years, I had my share of 9.5 Becketts! (Here's scans of a few!)
rd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- guess my Paytons below were at least 1/2s!
Quicksilver Messenger Service - Smokestack Lightning (Live) 1968
Quicksilver Messenger Service - The Hat (Live) 1971
<< <i>Try $1500. >>
Agreed!!
Thanks,
David (LD_Ferg)
1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
<< <i>Just received my grades from Beckett. Got a 1985 Topps Walter Payton BGS 9.5, POP 1. Paid about $5 for the card. Not BAD!!
What makes this card so tough? Is it the black border?
<< <i>
<< <i>Just received my grades from Beckett. Got a 1985 Topps Walter Payton BGS 9.5, POP 1. Paid about $5 for the card. Not BAD!!
What makes this card so tough? Is it the black border? >>
black border and centering if off on most the payton's that year
Good luck with the sale. Thats a nice card!!!
Just my opinion here, take it or leave it, no harm intended..........
If I was fortunate enough to turn a $5 card into a $1500 card because of the eye of one grader, I'd put the thing up for sale and pick up the
shipping cost on my own dime.
Listing that thing with free shipping would look a lot more inviting than charging $30 to ship a single card, no matter the value.
It might help more than you think.
Again, just my opinion. Good luck again with the sale.
shawn
<< <i>You've already hurt your market, imo. By listing at a high opening bid or with a high BIN you run the risk of outpricing your market and lowering the price that a card like this will bring. If you had ran it as a true auction the first time around I guarantee you would have gotten $1200+ for it. You've now, in effect, conditioned buyers for a lower price and if it doesn't get a bid at $900 then you've lowered it even more. >>
This is exactly right. And that's the key concept for why it's perfectly okay for high volume sellers to utilize high priced BINs. Better to maintain the market and wait for the one person who will meet your price.
<< <i>Nice card. Good luck with the sale.
Just my opinion here, take it or leave it, no harm intended..........
If I was fortunate enough to turn a $5 card into a $1500 card because of the eye of one grader, I'd put the thing up for sale and pick up the
shipping cost on my own dime.
Listing that thing with free shipping would look a lot more inviting than charging $30 to ship a single card, no matter the value.
It might help more than you think.
Again, just my opinion. Good luck again with the sale.
shawn >>
Thanks for the thought. I do list all my other cards with free shipping, but most of them are under $250, no insurance needed. Insurance will be required on this one, probably around $20 worth. Maybe I can lower it a little.
<< <i>
<< <i>You've already hurt your market, imo. By listing at a high opening bid or with a high BIN you run the risk of outpricing your market and lowering the price that a card like this will bring. If you had ran it as a true auction the first time around I guarantee you would have gotten $1200+ for it. You've now, in effect, conditioned buyers for a lower price and if it doesn't get a bid at $900 then you've lowered it even more. >>
This is exactly right. And that's the key concept for why it's perfectly okay for high volume sellers to utilize high priced BINs. Better to maintain the market and wait for the one person who will meet your price. >>
If it doesn't sell this time, I will relist with "buy It now". Not going to let it go for less than $900.
<< <i>If it doesn't sell this time, I will relist with "buy It now". Not going to let it go for less than $900.
To make a business decision, you don't need much philosophy; all you need is greed, and maybe a little knowledge of how the game works.
I listed every card I have at 99 cent no reserve auctions, and I've gotten over book value more times than you can imagine.
I have to agree with corvette more than 100%, if you let it run at 99 cents you probably would have brought over 1200, but now that you do the ultra high opening bid people will see that it didn't sell and probably limit themselves to under that
You told me yourself you get higher half the time when you list at 99 cents
WTB: PSA 1 - PSA 3 Centered, High Eye Appeal 1950's Mantle
<< <i>
<< <i>If it doesn't sell this time, I will relist with "buy It now". Not going to let it go for less than $900.
To make a business decision, you don't need much philosophy; all you need is greed, and maybe a little knowledge of how the game works.
I listed every card I have at 99 cent no reserve auctions, and I've gotten over book value more times than you can imagine.
I have to agree with corvette more than 100%, if you let it run at 99 cents you probably would have brought over 1200, but now that you do the ultra high opening bid people will see that it didn't sell and probably limit themselves to under that
You told me yourself you get higher half the time when you list at 99 cents >>
I very rarely run auctions. it's been my experience that I get better prices, with 'buy it now's'. it takes more time though. if it doesn't sell, no big deal. It is still a very valuable card.
<< <i>
<< <i>If it doesn't sell this time, I will relist with "buy It now". Not going to let it go for less than $900.
To make a business decision, you don't need much philosophy; all you need is greed, and maybe a little knowledge of how the game works.
I listed every card I have at 99 cent no reserve auctions, and I've gotten over book value more times than you can imagine.
I have to agree with corvette more than 100%, if you let it run at 99 cents you probably would have brought over 1200, but now that you do the ultra high opening bid people will see that it didn't sell and probably limit themselves to under that
You told me yourself you get higher half the time when you list at 99 cents >>
I very rarely run auctions. it's been my experience that I get better prices, with 'buy it now's'. it takes more time though. if it doesn't sell, no big deal. It is still a very valuable card.
If you use a high starting price, you really should start it exactly where you want it to end since a bidding war becomes much less likely.
When I've used high starting bids with no sale, I've always relisted as a BIN with a slightly higher starting price to offset the higher fvf. Sometimes the cards have sold within 2 days not selling via auction. They all sell eventually, usually within three months.
<< <i>Without checking to see if there are bids, I think you should change your price to $1200 (or something close to that) and then if it doesn't sell go with the BIN.
If you use a high starting price, you really should start it exactly where you want it to end since a bidding war becomes much less likely.
When I've used high starting bids with no sale, I've always relisted as a BIN with a slightly higher starting price to offset the higher fvf. Sometimes the cards have sold within 2 days not selling via auction. They all sell eventually, usually within three months. >>
Thanks for the advice. If i get $900, I will take it, if not then I will do a buy it now.
<< <i>
I very rarely run auctions. it's been my experience that I get better prices, with 'buy it now's'. it takes more time though. if it doesn't sell, no big deal. It is still a very valuable card.
Correction . . .
You get "your" price with BIN (if it is executed). No necessarily a better price.
Limited availability items, when properly exposed, tend to do better at auction that they do via BIN (excluded those listed with BO option) or overinflated starting prices.
<< <i>
<< <i>
I very rarely run auctions. it's been my experience that I get better prices, with 'buy it now's'. it takes more time though. if it doesn't sell, no big deal. It is still a very valuable card.
Correction . . .
You get "your" price with BIN (if it is executed). No necessarily a better price.
Limited availability items, when properly exposed, tend to do better at auction that they do via BIN (excluded those listed with BO option) or overinflated starting prices. >>
You may be right.
<< <i>i wonder what it would go for if it were in a PSA 10 jacket instead of that bgs >>
more
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>An auction format with a starting bid at $1 may bring you a bigger return, but depending on the market for this kid of card, you could take a beating, too. A BIN format may take longer to sell the card, but you will do so at your price. High risk may bring high reward, but if you don't get at least two bidders interested at your price, that can backfire on you, too. Good luck in whatever you decide.. >>
a .99 auction was definitely the way to get the maximum for this card, but now the only way is to try and get someone to go for a BIN. An auction at this point would bring less because the seller has created a lower market for the card through perceived value. Then again, I could be wrong, it's happened one other time.
<< <i>Update..I sold the card for $850. Not too bad for a $5 purchase.
Gratz was wondering what it went for.
Sean
<< <i>
<< <i>Update..I sold the card for $850. Not too bad for a $5 purchase.
Gratz was wondering what it went for.
Sean >>
Good job, well played.