Digging through Dad's collection
StickNutzman
Posts: 119 ✭✭
Hello,
I'm brand new to the forum, although I've been stalking the last few weeks to see what kind of people post here.
Here's my story: My dad passed away last year after a lengthy battle with cancer. He was a card and memorabilia collector, and as his oldest son, I now find myself digging through his collection, and it has definitely brought back some awesome memories and made me appreciate the hobby even more.
My main reason for posting is to ask a few questions... I called the PSA customer support number but of course they didn't want to offer any personal opinions about the collection. So anyway, here I am.
Here's what I'm wondering about:
Card grading: How important is it? I know this sounds like a stupid question. With the research I've done on eBay, it is obvious that PSA graded cards will fetch exponentially higher prices (depending on the card and grade, of course). Is there any situation, barring a completely terrible looking card, that grading isn't in a collector's best interest?
Card sales: Speaking of eBay, is that the be-all-end-all of card and memorabilia sales for your normal collector? I'm not someone who really wants to get into consignment or other auction houses. From a pure monetary perspective, the 9% cut that eBay takes seems like it would be the least infringing on any sales that you make aside from a person-to-person deal. The potential viewing audience on eBay also seems to trump all others. Any thoughts on this? I've also started looking into getting a table at a local sports card show. My dad conveniently had some nice display cases stored away as well.
Well, that's all I'll post for now. I do have a few more questions, but I'll save those for later. Thanks in advance for your replies!
I'm brand new to the forum, although I've been stalking the last few weeks to see what kind of people post here.
Here's my story: My dad passed away last year after a lengthy battle with cancer. He was a card and memorabilia collector, and as his oldest son, I now find myself digging through his collection, and it has definitely brought back some awesome memories and made me appreciate the hobby even more.
My main reason for posting is to ask a few questions... I called the PSA customer support number but of course they didn't want to offer any personal opinions about the collection. So anyway, here I am.
Here's what I'm wondering about:
Card grading: How important is it? I know this sounds like a stupid question. With the research I've done on eBay, it is obvious that PSA graded cards will fetch exponentially higher prices (depending on the card and grade, of course). Is there any situation, barring a completely terrible looking card, that grading isn't in a collector's best interest?
Card sales: Speaking of eBay, is that the be-all-end-all of card and memorabilia sales for your normal collector? I'm not someone who really wants to get into consignment or other auction houses. From a pure monetary perspective, the 9% cut that eBay takes seems like it would be the least infringing on any sales that you make aside from a person-to-person deal. The potential viewing audience on eBay also seems to trump all others. Any thoughts on this? I've also started looking into getting a table at a local sports card show. My dad conveniently had some nice display cases stored away as well.
Well, that's all I'll post for now. I do have a few more questions, but I'll save those for later. Thanks in advance for your replies!
0
Comments
If you're looking for a quick sell on everything you should turn your PM's on and shoot me one or email sean1125@aol.com, I should be able to fly out.
In the long hall after the investment grading will probably make more money for extremely nice sets.
post some examples of your cards here if you can, it sounds like a great collection. good luck.
<< <i>Thank goodness you didn't see this on Auction Hunters or Storage Wars. >>
that was my first thought,
as mentioned get immaculate cards graded no matter who they are, a good (and free) start would be to post some pics on here for our opinions...
Now grading an entire 1964 set. I doubt yours needs to be 100% graded. If you have any Off centered cards they will automatically be worth less than the $6.00 it cost to have a common card graded.
Learn what condition you have is the main deal.
al.
- how is your current feedback? If you have high feedback (maybe at least a few hundred) and close to 100% positive, you'll do OK in the bids you receive. If you have only a few feedbacks or many negatives / neutrals, you won't get nearly as good final prices as a seller with better feedback would.
- Make sure you have a good scanner, which takes quality hi-res scans of the items. Don't just take a digital picture of an item from 10 feet away. You'll never get the quality of bids by going that route.
Best of luck with the collection and whatever you decide to do with it....
For Sale on eBay
All walks.
Edited to answer your other question.
In my area I've had some terrible luck selling at card shows (Vintage), ebay and these boards and net54 seem to be pretty solid in terms of selling if your prices are right.
Always give the board first shot at whatever you sell, if someone needs it you will most likely get near full or full vcp for it and you then know you did well.
It sounds like you do have quite a bit, I would suggest grabbing a subscription to VCP to help you with solid pricing.
Sean
Hello, welcome!
(ex, Shaker Heights kid! Moved away in the early 60s, was going to Woodbury Jr. High School back then! LOL)
If you want to get "top dollar" for your dad's collection, it may take you years of selling and countless hours of "hard work".
You will need to develop a "passion" for those items, and it will become "a labor of love", and not just hard work.
You owe it to you dad. It will be hard.
First thing is to do a general inventory.
But DO NOT HANDLE THE CARDS UNTIL YOU KNOW HOW TO DO IT!
That may sound silly but you could turn a $100 item into a $10 item very quickly.
DO NOT RUSH!
There will be plenty of CU members who will be happy to help you over the years. So if you want to "DO IT RIGHT".
I think you came to the right place!
rd
Quicksilver Messenger Service - Smokestack Lightning (Live) 1968
Quicksilver Messenger Service - The Hat (Live) 1971
<< <i> But DO NOT HANDLE THE CARDS UNTIL YOU KNOW HOW TO DO IT!
That may sound silly but you could turn a $100 item into a $10 item very quickly. >>
You're talking about handling the BARE cards, right? My dad had pretty much anything of value in either top loaders, screw down cases, or binders. The only thing he wasnt good at is maintaining an inventory.
For Sale on eBay
You came to the right place for advice. Lots of knowledgeable folks here. Best advice I've seen so far is DO NOT RUSH. Take the time to get a good understanding of the value of the collection.
http://www.unisquare.com/store/brick/
Ralph
I'm near Mansfield.
Another question about eBay... what is with the deluge of ungraded cards that people are selling? Do people not care or not realize that graded cards bring in way more on a sale? Are there issues with fake or doctored cards?
For Sale on eBay
There are many reason's why some people sell cards raw rather than grade them. Some cards are just not worth getting graded. The money and time spent outweigh the money that could be made on the sale of a card. Some people know nothing about card grading companies and don't want to take the time to learn. Some people don't trust grading companies and want nothing to do with them. There are many more reasons why, but to each his own.
Good luck with your selling and collecting...
Donato
Donato's Complete US Type Set ---- Donato's Dansco 7070 Modified Type Set ---- Donato's Basic U.S. Coin Design Set
Successful transactions: Shrub68 (Jim), MWallace (Mike)
Top left is probably too poor to worry about being graded. Top right and bottom left are centered pretty well but corners are a little worn. Bottom right probably has the sharpest corners and best color, but is horribly off center. Which one is the best pick for grading?
For Sale on eBay
It sounds like you're already on the right path. Like handyman said, learn how to grade your own cards before sending in a majority of them. Experience the grading process before sending in the big boys. If you try to sell any high-dollar rookies or star cards (like any Mantle), you would leave a lot of money on the table if you sell it raw, almost regardless of condition. Not only is the grade important, but in many cases, authenticity is equally important.
I look forward to seeing some of your Dad's collection!
1, 4
7, 8(MC)
<< <i>You're talking about handling the BARE cards, right? My dad had pretty much anything of value in either top loaders, screw down cases, or binders. >>
Screw down holders can be a high grade cards undoing. Often the uneven pressure can flatten out corners and even cause air bubbles to form in the cards (if they were screwed down too tight).
I recently helped a friend unload a massive collection and I am still selling pieces so he gets fair market value.
Right now you should start by having just the key cards graded, definitely any Mantle base cards and those Ryan rookies. When you submit the cards to PSA write down on a piece of paper what you think each card will grade, this is an excellent way of figuring out how much you are over-grading/under-grading your cards. Once you have a decent idea of PSA's grading standards you should get any hall of famers and stars that are high grade graded. As for selling, don't sell anything bulk; you shouldn't have to sell anything larger then a complete set if you want to maximize your profits. Ebay is great but often auction houses can help with the load (unfortunately they often group smaller lots into one).
<< <i>Another question about eBay... what is with the deluge of ungraded cards that people are selling? Do people not care or not realize that graded cards bring in way more on a sale? Are there issues with fake or doctored cards? >>
Often it is better to sell cards ungraded. A NM common may be $7.00 in a PSA 7 holder but if it costs $6.00 and 45 business days to get graded it is often more profitable to simply sell it raw for $2.00. You need to know which cards are worth grading and which aren't it could cost you a lot of money if you don't.
Most important! POST PICS ASAP
Also, turn on your PM or email me if you need anymore advise.
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." Dr. Seuss
<< <i>I would say the grades for those four cards would be:
1, 4
7, 8(MC) >>
The top right will probably not be graded because it isn't properly factory cut.
The bottom left is your best bet at a decent grade probably PSA 6
The last would be 7 MC
Also: is that a pinhole in the top right card? It could just be a fish-eye but idk.
My opinion of the grades:
2, N/A
6.5, 7 MC
Edit because we don't need to see the pic again
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." Dr. Seuss
<< <i>The top right will probably not be graded because it isn't properly factory cut. >>
True, that card wouldn't fit properly in the slab.
<< <i>
<< <i>The top right will probably not be graded because it isn't properly factory cut. >>
True, that card wouldn't fit properly in the slab. >>
SGC would probably grade it though.
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." Dr. Seuss
For Sale on eBay
<< <i>Haha... I probably shouldn't have even posted the Clemente cards as I need to hang it up for tonight. Sorry for the tease! Thanks so much for all te helpful advice. I'll try to get some more scans on here this week to see what you guys think. Any requests for me to look for?
Miscut it refers to the factory cut as in the card is so off-centered that part of the card/picture is missing
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." Dr. Seuss
My Podcast - Now FEATURED on iTunes
<< <i>
good thing the swimmers are OC in this photo or they'd be lunch!!!!
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PSA Card Grading Standards
PSA Photograde™ Online - Take a visual tour of the PSA Card Grading Standards.
GEM-MT 10: Gem Mint
A PSA Gem Mint 10 card is a virtually perfect card. Attributes include four perfectly sharp corners, sharp focus and full original gloss. A PSA Gem Mint 10 card must be free of staining of any kind, but an allowance may be made for a slight printing imperfection, if it doesn't impair the overall appeal of the card. The image must be centered on the card within a tolerance not to exceed approximately 55/45 to 60/40 percent on the front, and 75/25 percent on the reverse.
MINT 9: Mint
A PSA Mint 9 is a superb condition card that exhibits only one of the following minor flaws: a very slight wax stain on reverse, a minor printing imperfection or slightly off-white borders. Centering must be approximately 60/40 to 65/35 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.
NM-MT 8: Near Mint-Mint
A PSA NM-MT 8 is a super high-end card that appears Mint 9 at first glance, but upon closer inspection, the card can exhibit the following: a very slight wax stain on reverse, slightest fraying at one or two corners, a minor printing imperfection, and/or slightly off-white borders. Centering must be approximately 65/35 to 70/30 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.
NM 7: Near Mint
A PSA NM 7 is a card with just a slight surface wear visible upon close inspection. There may be slight fraying on some corners. Picture focus may be slightly out-of-register. A minor printing blemish is acceptable. Slight wax staining is acceptable on the back of the card only. Most of the original gloss is retained. Centering must be approximately 70/30 to 75/25 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the back.
EX-MT 6: Excellent-Mint
A PSA EX-MT 6 card may have visible surface wear or a printing defect which does not detract from its overall appeal. A very light scratch may be detected only upon close inspection. Corners may have slightly graduated fraying. Picture focus may be slightly out-of-register. Card may show some loss of original gloss, may have minor wax stain on reverse, may exhibit very slight notching on edges and may also show some off-whiteness on borders. Centering must be 80/20 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.
EX 5: Excellent
On PSA EX-5 cards, very minor rounding of the corners is becoming evident. Surface wear or printing defects are more visible. There may be minor chipping on edges. Loss of original gloss will be more apparent. Focus of picture may be slightly out-of-register. Several light scratches may be visible upon close inspection, but do not detract from the appeal of the card. Card may show some off-whiteness of borders. Centering must be 85/15 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the back.
VG-EX 4: Very Good-Excellent
A PSA VG-EX 4 card's corners may be slightly rounded. Surface wear is noticeable but modest. The card may have light scuffing or light scratches. Some original gloss will be retained. Borders may be slightly off-white. A light crease may be visible. Centering must be 85/15 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the back.
VG 3: Very Good
A PSA VG 3 card reveals some rounding of the corners, though not extreme. Some surface wear will be apparent, along with possible light scuffing or light scratches. Focus may be somewhat off-register and edges may exhibit noticeable wear. Much, but not all, of the card's original gloss will be lost. Borders may be somewhat yellowed and/or discolored. A crease may be visible. Printing defects are possible. Slight stain may show on obverse and wax staining on reverse may be more prominent. Centering must be 90/10 or better on the front and back.
GOOD 2: Good
A PSA Good 2 card's corners show accelerated rounding and surface wear is starting to become obvious. A good card may have scratching, scuffing, light staining, or chipping of enamel on obverse. There may be several creases. Original gloss may be completely absent. Card may show considerable discoloration. Centering must be 90/10 or better on the front and back.
FR 1.5: Fair
A PSA Fair 1.5 card's corners will show extreme wear, possibly affecting framing of the picture. The surface of the card will show advanced stages of wear, including scuffing, scratching, pitting, chipping and staining. The picture will possibly be quite out-of-register and the borders may have become brown and dirty. The card may have one or more heavy creases. In order to achieve a Fair grade, a card must be fully intact. Even though the card may be heavily worn, it cannot achieve this grade if it is missing solid pieces of the card as a result of a major tear, etc. This would include damage such as the removal of the back layer of the card or an entire corner. The centering must be approximately 90/10 or better on the front and back.
PR 1: Poor
A PSA Poor 1 will exhibit many of the same qualities of a PSA Fair 1.5 but the defects may have advanced to such a serious stage that the eye appeal of the card has nearly vanished in its entirety. A Poor card may be missing one or two small pieces, exhibit major creasing that nearly breaks through all the layers of cardboard or it may contain extreme discoloration or dirtiness throughout that may make it difficult to identify the issue or content of the card on either the front or back. A card of this nature may also show noticeable warping or another type of destructive defect.
Half-Point Grades:
Cards that exhibit high-end qualities within each particular grade, between PSA Good 2 and PSA Mint 9, may achieve a half-point increase. While PSA graders will evaluate all of the attributes possessed by a card in order to determine if the card may be eligible, there will be a clear focus on centering.
Generally speaking, a card must exhibit centering that is 5-10% better, at minimum, than the lowest % allowed within a particular grade. It is important to note that there may be cases where the overall strength of the card, such as the quality of the corners and print, will give the card the edge it needs despite the fact that it may exhibit only marginal centering for the grade. This is especially true for cards that find themselves within the bottom half of the PSA 1-10 scale.
Finally, keep in mind that qualifiers will not apply to grades that achieve the half-point increase since, by definition, these cards have to exhibit high-end qualities within the grade in order to warrant consideration. For example, there will not be cards graded PSA NM-MT-Plus 8.5 OC or PSA EX-MT-Plus 6.5 PD since the half-point is reserved for high-end cards within each grade.
At this time, only cards qualify for half-point grades. Coins, pins, tickets and packs will not receive half-point grades.
QUALIFIERS:
PSA will grade nearly every card submitted. Cards having significant flaws will receive "qualified" grades as follows:
OC (Off Center):
When the centering of the card falls below the minimum standard for that grade will be designated "OC." PSA determines centering by comparing the measurements of the borders from left to right and top to bottom. The centering is designated as the percent of difference at the most off-center part of the card. A 5% leeway is given to the front centering minimum standards for cards which grade NM 7 or better. For example, a card that meets all of the other requirements for PSA MINT 9 and measures 60/40 off-center on the front automatically meets the PSA front centering standards for MINT 9. If a card meets all of the other requirements for PSA MINT 9 and measures 65/35 off-center on the front, it may be deemed to meet the PSA front centering standards for MINT 9 if the eye appeal of the card is good.
ST (Staining):
Cards with staining below the minimum standards for the grade will be designated "ST."
(NOTE: STAIN CAN ALSO BE ON THE REVRSE, SEE BELOW):
PD (Print Defect):
Cards with significant printing defects will be designated "PD."
OF (Out of Focus):
Cards with focus below the minimum standards for the grade will be designated "OF."
MK (Marks):
Cards with writing, ink marks, pencil marks, etc. will be designated "MK."
(NOTE: A MARK CAN ALSO BE ON THE REVERSE, SEE SCAN BELOW):
MC (Miscut):
Cards that exhibit an atypical cut for the issue or ones that contain partial portions of more than one card will be designated "MC."
UNGRADEABLE CARDS:
PSA will not grade cards that bear evidence of trimming, re-coloring, restoration, or any other forms of tampering, or are of questionable authenticity. In addition, PSA does not grade autographed cards dated earlier than 1998 or any cards manufactured by Star except Star Baseball and 1996 Star Topps (reprint) Basketball Cards; only factory imprint signatures can be graded.
The Grading of Hand-Cut Cards
PSA will grade virtually any card that has been hand-cut off of a panel, box, etc. (Post Cereal, Hostess, Bazooka, Strip cards, etc.) keeping the following information in mind. This service does not include traditional sheet-cut cards. PSA will not grade cards cut from sheets that can be obtained in a normal fashion. For example, PSA will not grade a 1979 O-Pee-Chee Wayne Gretzky card cut from a sheet because that card was issued in non-sheet form. On the other hand, PSA will grade a 1959 Bazooka or 1961 Post Cereal Mickey Mantle because those cards could only be obtained in one fashion - removed by hand from a box or panel.
In order for PSA to actually assign a grade to any of the cards that possess visible/defined borders on all four sides, evidence of that border must be present. If the cut exceeds the visible border for the card in question, PSA will encapsulate the card as "Authentic" only. If the card is severely undersized and suffers in overall eye appeal, the graders may deem the card not suitable for authentication or reject the card as minimum-sized altogether.
Keep in mind that, for cards that do not possess visible/defined borders, the cards must still fall within a certain size requirement for that particular issue in order to qualify for an actual grade. In other words, the borders must be virtually full in order for a grade to be rendered. Otherwise, as stated above, a label of "Authentic" will be assigned or, in some cases, the cards may fall short of the size requirement altogether. This is not an exact science. PSA will do its best to provide consistent guidelines for these types of cards.
In addition, PSA will allow cards that have had a coupon or tab removed from the original card to be submitted under this service. For example, if a 1952 Red Man Tobacco card is cut at or outside of the established tab line, the card would be eligible to receive a numerical grade. On the other hand, if the 1952 Red Man Tobacco card is cut inside of the line (the line where the tab meets the interior of the card), then the PSA graders will be precluded from entering a numerical grade. Cards that are cut within the limits established for a particular issue will be encapsulated and designated as "authentic" by PSA. All of the cards eligible for this service will be designated as "Hand-Cut" on the PSA label to distinguish them from the intact, "with tab" or "with coupon" examples.
PSA suggests that, in order to achieve the highest grades, the cuts of the cards should be relatively close to the visible borders without exceeding the limit. Cards that exhibit a clean, accurate and properly shaped cut have the best chance at achieving the highest grades. Eye appeal is very important. When it comes to excess paper or cardboard around the edges of the visible borders, the graders will place significant importance on overall eye appeal. Keep in mind that all cards of this type will be designated as "Hand-Cut" on the PSA label for accuracy. In addition, if the customer chooses, PSA will grade and encapsulate entire panels if those panels will fit in any of our current PSA holders. With the exception of the aforementioned items, normal grading criteria will apply.
The Grading Approach to Pins/Coins
The grading of pins or coins often comes down to the strength or weakness of the eye appeal since the material in question is far less susceptible to wear than cardboard or paper. The areas/defects that PSA graders focus on include but are not limited to: scratches, dents, severity of rust (if present), centering of the picture (obverse and reverse), compression of the pin/coin, the overall condition of the paper (if present) on the reverse and overall print quality. Since collectible coins/pins often differ in their makeup, sometimes greatly, it is very difficult to apply one uniform grading standard to all collectibles that fall into this category. The factors above represent the basic, key elements in the PSA grading approach. At this time, pins and coins will not receive half-point grades.
No Grade Definitions
If the grade of your card is available and is listed with one of the following grades, this card was determined to be ungradable for the following reasons.
N-1 Evidence of Trimming - When a card's edge has been altered, a card doctor may use scissors, scalpel, cutter, or any other cutting instrument. A trimmed card may show one of the following: Hook up or down, have one razor sharp edge, a difference in toning along the edge, a wavy look.
N-2 Evidence of Restoration - When a card's paper stock is built up - for example, when ripped corners are built up to look like new corners.
N-3 Evidence of Recoloration - Where a card's color has been artificially improved.
N-4 Questionable Authenticity - This is the term used when a card is counterfeit.
N-5 Altered Stock - This term is used when the paper stock is altered in one or more of the following ways: Stretching and trimming, recoloring and restoring, trimming and recoloring, restoring and trimming, crease or wrinkle is pressed out, or gloss is enhanced.
N-6 Minimum Size Requirement - When a card is significantly undersized according to factory specifications. You will be given a voucher good for another submission for the same type of service.
N-7 Evidence of Cleaning - When a whitener is used to whiten borders or a solution is used to remove wax, candy, gum or tobacco stains.
N-8 Miscut - This term is used when the factory cut is an abnormal cut. The grading fees are returned. You will be given a voucher good for another submission for the same type of service.
N-9 Don't Grade - When we do not grade an issue. The cards may be oversized or an obscure issue. The grading fees are refunded. You will be given a voucher good for another submission for the same type of service.
N-0 Authentic Only - This means that PSA is only certifying that the item is genuine, without a numerical grade. This may be due to the existence of an alteration, one with malice or otherwise, a major defect or the original submitter may have requested that PSA encapsulate the card without a grade. The "Authentic" label means that the item, in our opinion, is real but nothing more.
The Importance of Eye Appeal and Subjectivity in Grading.
Over the years, more and more collectors have come to understand the basic guidelines behind PSA grading. After grading for well over a decade, PSA grading standards have truly become the official standard for the most valuable cards in the hobby. That being said, there are a host of grading questions that arise and the one basic question that comes up the most has to do with eye appeal and centering.
While it's true that a large part of grading is objective (locating print defects, staining, surface wrinkles, measuring centering, etc.), the other component of grading is somewhat subjective. The best way to define the subjective element is to do so by posing a question: What will the market accept for this particular issue?
Again, the vast majority of grading is applied with a basic, objective standard but no one can ignore the small (yet sometimes significant) subjective element. This issue will usually arise when centering and/or eye appeal are in question. For example, while most cards fall clearly within the centering guidelines for a particular grade, some cards fall either just within or just outside the printed centering standards. The key point to remember is that the graders reserve the right, based on the strength or weakness of the eye appeal, to make a judgment call on the grade of a particular card.
What does this mean exactly?
Well, take this example. Let's say you have a 1955 Topps Sandy Koufax rookie card that is right on the edge of the acceptable guidelines for centering in a particular grade. The 1955 Koufax card has a yellow background that tends to blend with the border of the card. In other words, the contrast isn't great, so poor centering may not be much of an eyesore – the borders are not clearly defined. In this case, if the card exhibits extremely strong characteristics in other areas (color, corners, etc.), an exception may be made to allow an otherwise slightly off-center card to fall within an unqualified grade (no OC qualifier). This is a rare occurrence but it does happen.
On the other hand, there are cards that technically fall within the printed PSA Grading Standards that may be prevented from reaching a particular unqualified grade because the eye appeal becomes an issue. For example, a 1957 Topps Sandy Koufax card has great contrast between the white borders and the picture because the background is very dark. It is possible that a 1957 Topps Sandy Koufax, one that technically measures for a particular grade – let's say 70/30, may be prevented from reaching that unqualified grade because the market would view that card as off-center – based on eye appeal issues. Again, this is a rare occurrence but it does happen from time to time when a judgment call has to be made on a card that pushes the limits for centering.
In conclusion, the issues discussed do not apply to the vast majority of cards that filter through the PSA grading process each day but this is an issue that needed some clarification in the marketplace. The bottom line is that there are times when a PSA grader must make a call on a card that falls on the line between two grades and that final determination is made based on experience, eye appeal and market acceptability.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
rd
Quicksilver Messenger Service - Smokestack Lightning (Live) 1968
Quicksilver Messenger Service - The Hat (Live) 1971
<< <i>Hahaha... are you saying I threw some chum in the water? Hey since people seem to be up and online this early... where is the best place online to get some Card Saver I's? None of my local card shops have them, and the prices from PSA are ridiculous. The best I've found so far is Columbia Sports Online... is that where most people buy from? >>
Did you check ebay? There should be many sellers with them.
<< <i>Hahaha... are you saying I threw some chum in the water? Hey since people seem to be up and online this early... where is the best place online to get some Card Saver I's? None of my local card shops have them, and the prices from PSA are ridiculous. The best I've found so far is Columbia Sports Online... is that where most people buy from? >>
+1 for Columbia Sports
For Sale on eBay
<< <i>I turned on my PM's, but please... no offers to buy at this time. I would however appreciate some additional tips on getting cards currently in screw down holders, top loaders, and binders into card saver 1's for submission. I am planning on putting them in vinyl sleeves before putting them in the Card Savers as recommended on PSA's website. Is that standard practice? Another potentially dumb question... does PSA send you back the Card Saver after they grade and encapsulate a card? >>
No they do not return them.
<< <i>I stopped placing cards in penny sleaves awhile ago due to the potential of dinging a corner while inserting the card into the penny sleave. >>
It is definitely a good idea to put the cards in penny sleeves before putting them in the cardsavers.
A simple step to take to avoid dinging the corners of the card when putting it in the penny sleeve, is to take a sharp knife and cut the edge of the penny sleeve about 1/4 of an inch or so. This way, you can slide the card in alot more easily, and without the danger of it being damaged.
Steve