Crusty 1833 Bust Half, Overton number? -just got the book.

kevinstang

Thanks to a forum member I finally got a copy of Early Half Dollar Die Varieties 4th edition and just got a chance to use it today. I had a hard time with this crusty 1833 half because of its almost non-existant rim segments obv/rev, I put it down as possibly O-111? Which would be a rarer variety for the date. I gave it a grade of VF-20, how bad did I do?

jesbroken

Enjoy your new book. Look at as many halves as you can and try to attribute them. Be sure to read the first section of the book for advice on how to compare the items of the coin.
For this CBH, check the 'I' in PLURIBUS as to its relationship to the second 'T' in STATES, this should become an instant check on attribution of CBH's for you.
Best of luck.
Jim

tumbleweedtrumpet

Nice coin! Still waiting to get my first.

Quarternut

1833’s are kind of tough to attribute and the pictures in the 4th edition leave a lot to be desired.

Looks like O-114 to me...it is definitely not O-111.

Along with looking at the T2 / I3 relationship...

Look at the last S in STATES and S in PLURIBUS relationship,
Scroll beginning relationship to ED of UNITED,
Scroll ending relationship to AM of AMERICA,
Relationship of the 50 C to the stem end (as well as the shape of the 5 & 0)

Once you nail down the reverse, the obverse is usually easy to determine, even if there are no dentils.

I’d say that it is closer to VF-30 than VF-20, the obverse looks more worn due to the late die stage of the dies (which also explains the lack of dentils).

Beware…the fever will consume you!

QN

kevinstang

<< <i>1833’s are kind of tough to attribute and the pictures in the 4th edition leave a lot to be desired.

Looks like O-114 to me...it is definitely not O-111.

Along with looking at the T2 / I3 relationship...

Look at the last S in STATES and S in PLURIBUS relationship,
Scroll beginning relationship to ED of UNITED,
Scroll ending relationship to AM of AMERICA,
Relationship of the 50 C to the stem end (as well as the shape of the 5 & 0)

Once you nail down the reverse, the obverse is usually easy to determine, even if there are no dentils.

I’d say that it is closer to VF-30 than VF-20, the obverse looks more worn due to the late die stage of the dies (which also explains the lack of dentils).

Beware…the fever will consume you!

QN >>



Thanks, I do believe you nailed it down! And thanks for the tip, I was starting with the obverse details first. I didn't think the 50 C had the right look for the 111 and I see now how it matches up with the 114 perfectly.