What do you guys think of the toning on this coin? 1960 25C Raw (Rate the photos)

JamesM

This was on the end of the roll of BU coins I opened today. Most for the coins are white with a few near the ends having some yellowing but no real toning on them other then this coin.

(really what I am looking for feedback on is the photos because I am using a new lighting setup that I made this weekend and this is the first coin I used it on.)

Tdec1000

The toning looks mottled but it also looks like a DDO to me.

JamesM

<< <i>The toning looks mottled but it also looks like a DDO to me. >>




Well I did notice a little doubling as well but I looking in my Cherry-pickers and saw nothing so I just let it go.

messydesk

Your lighting setup is quite good for showing the coloration, but not for luster. As you wanted to show the color of the coin in this case, it was a good choice. Since very diffuse light is similar to an overcast day in that it sucks the contrast out of your pictures, I gave the contrast a small boost with the curves, then sharpened with a 40% gain and a filter radius of 1 pixel.

JamesM

<< <i>Your lighting setup is quite good for showing the coloration, but not for luster. As you wanted to show the color of the coin in this case, it was a good choice. Since very diffuse light is similar to an overcast day in that it sucks the contrast out of your pictures, I gave the contrast a small boost with the curves, then sharpened with a 40% gain and a filter radius of 1 pixel.

>>



Wow thats a lot better what editing program do you use? I have never changed my photos other then cropping and so I only use the windows photo viewer to crop.

jmski52

then sharpened with a 40% gain and a filter radius of 1 pixel.

Huh? Please elaborate in common English. Is that in an imaging program or a paint program, or is it in the camera software or hardware?


For the OP, did John's adjustment bring the image closer to the coin's appearance in hand?

JamesM

“For the OP, did John's adjustment bring the image closer to the coin's appearance in hand?”

well that is a hard question as in hand I can till the coin an look at it under any light/angel combo I want to. The first photo is 100% as it is in hand as it was not edited at all but that is only one view of the coin with no tilt to it. But if I tilt the coin in hand just a tad back then it looks more like johns photo.


Oh and the sad thing is with this lighting its not imposable to photograph slab coins because of the ring light + dispersal and high angel of the lighting/ large distance away from the coin.

messydesk

<< <i>Huh? Please elaborate in common English. Is that in an imaging program or a paint program, or is it in the camera software or hardware? >>


I used Photoshop to make the coin look more what I assume it looks like. The curves tool is the best way to do brightness and contrast adjustments. The sharpening filter ("smart sharpen" tool, in this case) sharpens the edges. The gain of 40% refers to the amount of sharpening (not too much), and the kernel of 1 pixel radius refers to how fine or coarse (in this case, rather fine) the sharpening is. These same tools should be in Photoshop Elements and are in GIMP.

JamesM

<< <i>

<< <i>Huh? Please elaborate in common English. Is that in an imaging program or a paint program, or is it in the camera software or hardware? >>


I used Photoshop to make the coin look more what I assume it looks like. The curves tool is the best way to do brightness and contrast adjustments. The sharpening filter ("smart sharpen" tool, in this case) sharpens the edges. The gain of 40% refers to the amount of sharpening (not too much), and the kernel of 1 pixel radius refers to how fine or coarse (in this case, rather fine) the sharpening is. These same tools should be in Photoshop Elements and are in GIMP. >>




I really like to use the ring light setup I made because I am not going to have to move the lights every time before I was tilting slabs and moving lights for every coin.