<< <i>You can conserve the coin... but it will be slabbed in a Genuine slab. >>
So no amount of acetone soaking or mineral oils is going to get it all off and leave behind an undamaged surface? >>
Beware of unqualified maintenance personnel, and who knows if it could be graded. I'm not a doctor and am just here today ... rambling. I like coins, though. Thanks for sharing.
<< <i>You can conserve the coin... but it will be slabbed in a Genuine slab. >>
So no amount of acetone soaking or mineral oils is going to get it all off and leave behind an undamaged surface? >>
If you remove the pvc/verdigris, it will leave a stain. The stain will render the coin Genuine. I'm sure a coin doctor can "repair" it so it will grade... but then you'd be a party to a crime. Treat the pvc/verdigris, sell it and that save that money toward one that is already slabbed.
The obverse appears to be struck through in the headdress or might be damaged... I can't really tell from the image. I agree that the reverse looks to have verdigris but there's no way to tell what's underneath. If there's corrosion under it, it will look worse after acetone or olive oil treatment. If you're planning on treating the whole coin, the dirt in the headdress of the obverse will also be affected to some degree as well. I'd tend to either steer clear of this coin, or if you've already purchased it, just leave it alone and put it in an album. 1869 is a tougher date to find in nice un-messed-with VF condition... they're pretty common in "doctored" VF... and priced accordingly.
L
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
<< <i>The obverse appears to be struck through in the headdress or might be damaged... I can't really tell from the image. I agree that the reverse looks to have verdigris but there's no way to tell what's underneath. If there's corrosion under it, it will look worse after acetone or olive oil treatment. If you're planning on treating the whole coin, the dirt in the headdress of the obverse will also be affected to some degree as well. I'd tend to either steer clear of this coin, or if you've already purchased it, just leave it alone and put it in an album. 1869 is a tougher date to find in nice un-messed-with VF condition... they're pretty common in "doctored" VF... and priced accordingly.
L >>
Thanks for the advice. I think I will just sell it as-is and move on. You dont think its an XF40 details?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
It might grade just the way it is. The spot in the feather might kill it. Can't really tell what that is. It looks like the camera is making the coin look worse than it really is.
I like to see clear separation of the ribbon from the lower hair curl for XF and a full band for LIBERTY, but these were notoriously weakly struck. The god of IHCs frequents these boards and can probably offer a better assessment... I'd say VF37.5???
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
I think that is verdigris, not PVC, and acetone will do nothing for the coin except screw up its color.
You can try Verdicare but I have found old, granular-like verdigris (such as on the OP's coin) particularly stubborn. Which leads me to believe that damage lies underneath.
Sometimes much of the stuff comes off and the surface underneath looks fine, more or less (example 1). Sometimes when it's removed the toning comes off too (example 2). Just as often the verdigris is bonded to the surface and nothing can be done.
I believe the Sniffer is supposed to detect Verdigone. Not sure about Verdicare but I would guess the two are alike. Lance.
Sometimes much of the stuff comes off and the surface underneath looks fine, more or less (example 1). Sometimes when it's removed the toning comes off too (example 2). Just as often the verdigris is bonded to the surface and nothing can be done.
I believe the Sniffer is supposed to detect Verdigone. Not sure about Verdicare but I would guess the two are alike. Lance.
Lance, where do I get some of that stuff? I have a 1944 cud cent that is breaking my heart because it got this type of green crud on it when I wasn't looking over a period of 20 years. I'd rather have that stuff off of it than to watch it get eaten up right before my eyes.
Q: Are You Printing Money? Bernanke: Not Literally
<< <i>The god of IHCs frequents these boards and can probably offer a better assessment... I'd say VF37.5??? >>
If he can't make it, perhaps Rick Snow will have an opinion.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
It's nearly impossible to tell what will happen when the verdigris is removed. With that said it looks (possible) to save that coin. I have seen much worse conserved and graded. No one can say for sure until it is tried.
I think most of that junk will come right off. It might require several days in olive oil though. It won't be a pretty coin underneath and that looks like a hole in the feathers.
Comments
<< <i>You can conserve the coin... but it will be slabbed in a Genuine slab. >>
So no amount of acetone soaking or mineral oils is going to get it all off and leave behind an undamaged surface?
My Early Large Cents
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>
<< <i>You can conserve the coin... but it will be slabbed in a Genuine slab. >>
So no amount of acetone soaking or mineral oils is going to get it all off and leave behind an undamaged surface? >>
Is the green verdigris or PVC?
<< <i>
<< <i>You can conserve the coin... but it will be slabbed in a Genuine slab. >>
So no amount of acetone soaking or mineral oils is going to get it all off and leave behind an undamaged surface? >>
Beware of unqualified maintenance personnel, and who knows if it could be graded. I'm not a doctor and am just here today ... rambling. I like coins, though. Thanks for sharing.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>You can conserve the coin... but it will be slabbed in a Genuine slab. >>
So no amount of acetone soaking or mineral oils is going to get it all off and leave behind an undamaged surface? >>
Is the green verdigris or PVC? >>
I dont know the answer for sure, but I assume verdigris.
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>
<< <i>You can conserve the coin... but it will be slabbed in a Genuine slab. >>
So no amount of acetone soaking or mineral oils is going to get it all off and leave behind an undamaged surface? >>
If you remove the pvc/verdigris, it will leave a stain. The stain will render the coin Genuine. I'm sure a coin doctor can "repair" it so it will grade... but then you'd be a party to a crime. Treat the pvc/verdigris, sell it and that save that money toward one that is already slabbed.
L
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
<< <i>The obverse appears to be struck through in the headdress or might be damaged... I can't really tell from the image. I agree that the reverse looks to have verdigris but there's no way to tell what's underneath. If there's corrosion under it, it will look worse after acetone or olive oil treatment. If you're planning on treating the whole coin, the dirt in the headdress of the obverse will also be affected to some degree as well. I'd tend to either steer clear of this coin, or if you've already purchased it, just leave it alone and put it in an album. 1869 is a tougher date to find in nice un-messed-with VF condition... they're pretty common in "doctored" VF... and priced accordingly.
L >>
Thanks for the advice. I think I will just sell it as-is and move on. You dont think its an XF40 details?
My Early Large Cents
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
This isn't the first coin to have verdigris on it and it certainly won't be the last.
The name is LEE!
<< <i>Would this coin be worth a trip to NCS? >>
They'd certainly have more experience in predicting what's underneath the dirt/verdigris...
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
You can try Verdicare but I have found old, granular-like verdigris (such as on the OP's coin) particularly stubborn. Which leads me to believe that damage lies underneath.
Sometimes much of the stuff comes off and the surface underneath looks fine, more or less (example 1). Sometimes when it's removed the toning comes off too (example 2). Just as often the verdigris is bonded to the surface and nothing can be done.
I believe the Sniffer is supposed to detect Verdigone. Not sure about Verdicare but I would guess the two are alike.
Lance.
example 1
example 2
I believe the Sniffer is supposed to detect Verdigone. Not sure about Verdicare but I would guess the two are alike.
Lance.
Lance, where do I get some of that stuff? I have a 1944 cud cent that is breaking my heart because it got this type of green crud on it when I wasn't looking over a period of 20 years. I'd rather have that stuff off of it than to watch it get eaten up right before my eyes.
I knew it would happen.
<< <i>The god of IHCs frequents these boards and can probably offer a better assessment... I'd say VF37.5???
If he can't make it, perhaps Rick Snow will have an opinion.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Lance.
With that said it looks (possible) to save that coin. I have seen much worse conserved and graded.
No one can say for sure until it is tried.
Beware of opinions stated as fact.
in olive oil though. It won't be a pretty coin underneath and that looks like
a hole in the feathers.
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>Heres the feather. Is this as struck? Or is it damage?
>>
It still looks like a hole but a photo can fool you.
<< <i>
<< <i>The god of IHCs frequents these boards and can probably offer a better assessment... I'd say VF37.5???
If he can't make it, perhaps Rick Snow will have an opinion. >>
lol
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
<< <i>Heres the feather. Is this as struck? Or is it damage?
This looks like the view I observed as I was stuffing my turkey last Thanksgiving!
<< <i>Here's where I bought it.
Lance. >>
Coin Doctors are BAD... Coin Wizards are GOOD!