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Buying raw to get graded

I just read another thread about the success some have in doing this. Othering than centering, corners, edges, etc., I just don't know how to tell when a card is only an 8 and not a 9 or a 10. Any thoughts?

Always looking for Mantle cards such as Stahl Meyer, 1954 Dan Dee, 1959 Bazooka, 1960 Post, 1952 Star Cal Decal, 1952 Tip Top Bread Labels, 1953-54 Briggs Meat, and other Topps, Bowman, and oddball Mantles.

Comments

  • Most of the time you can't tell the small differences without actually having an ultra high res scan/the card in hand.
  • judgebuckjudgebuck Posts: 1,006 ✭✭✭
    Even when you have the card in hand, what do you look for in determining 8, 9, or 10? Many 8s are centered with great corners and edges.

    Always looking for Mantle cards such as Stahl Meyer, 1954 Dan Dee, 1959 Bazooka, 1960 Post, 1952 Star Cal Decal, 1952 Tip Top Bread Labels, 1953-54 Briggs Meat, and other Topps, Bowman, and oddball Mantles.

  • I don't have the web page on hand, but psa has it somewhere - it has to do with eye appeal and then it gets down to minute little things.
  • judgebuckjudgebuck Posts: 1,006 ✭✭✭
    I guess you're right. PSA's grading criteria spells it out. It's just that I have trouble looking at a raw card in hand and deciding whether it is likely to come back graded a 8, 9, or 10. With many cards, it makes a huge difference in deciding whether to submit for grading.

    Always looking for Mantle cards such as Stahl Meyer, 1954 Dan Dee, 1959 Bazooka, 1960 Post, 1952 Star Cal Decal, 1952 Tip Top Bread Labels, 1953-54 Briggs Meat, and other Topps, Bowman, and oddball Mantles.

  • ymareaymarea Posts: 1,576 ✭✭✭
    Besides the characteristics you've mentioned, also look at color, gloss, focus, and surface condition (scratches, dull spots, indentations, print spots, roller marks, etc.) Be sure to scrutinize the back of the card, too.
    Brett
  • judgebuckjudgebuck Posts: 1,006 ✭✭✭
    Thanks for the tips. After 30 years of buying and selling cards, I've always been able to distinguish between all grades up to about a 7. After that, it gets tough for me.

    Always looking for Mantle cards such as Stahl Meyer, 1954 Dan Dee, 1959 Bazooka, 1960 Post, 1952 Star Cal Decal, 1952 Tip Top Bread Labels, 1953-54 Briggs Meat, and other Topps, Bowman, and oddball Mantles.

  • its very subjective in my opinion.

    i got this in the mail today (eBay win, group digital picture with three slabs in total):

    image

    heres a close up of the upper left corner:

    image

    now if *i* were examining this card raw to see if i would submit it (i collect PSA 9's, but dont mind 10's, those are easy to trade lol), there is no way i'd send it in, based on centering alone, but the thing that makes it a no-go for me is that there is a "chunk" missing from the upper left corner
    Big Fan of: HOF Post War RC, Graded RCs
    WTB: PSA 1 - PSA 3 Centered, High Eye Appeal 1950's Mantle
  • SethroSethro Posts: 671 ✭✭
    That Fisk is an example of what is killing me about collecting slabbed cards.

    I collect 9s too, and it is the same thing. I win a card on eBay, receive it in the mail, and am shocked at the obvious, naked eye flaws. I understand that 9 allows for minor print defects, but I cannot understand how a print defect that obliterates half of the first letter of a player's name (essentially turning Dave into Jave) is a minor print defect. Or a print mark that looks like someone took a ballpoint pen and drew a black line across the bright blue sky. I mean, maybe if the line was on a dark background or something I could understand, but talk about eye appeal. It's the first thing your eye goes to on this card.

    And the problem is I don't know who to be frustrated with. PSA, for not having a clearer (or higher?) standard, or these submitters who seem to know something I don't. I have piles of cards that didn't make it past my first preview because of the (I think) obvious defects, but I think that if someone else submitted them they would be a 9.
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