Home› Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum

How much have you over paid for a card?

johnny1976johnny1976 Posts: 440 ✭
in Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum


I was looking on ebay at a card with a BIN. The card is priced about 300% more than what it would sell at auction. This card hasn't come up for auction in the past that I remember. I am also ashamed to say what the card is because I am considering buying it. So I am wondering how much have you over paid for cards in the past?

Comments

  • Sean1125Sean1125 Posts: 3,479
    A card is worth what someone is willing to pay. If it hasn't come up in a while, it might not come up again. If you want it that bad it is truly your decision.
  • rlange5rlange5 Posts: 228
    You say that it is priced about 300% of what it would get at auction, but you have not seen one come up. Are you using VCP or some other guide to get this price?
    Depending on what it's worth to you would be the correct value of the item.

    Bob
    Not an alt, just a lurker

    Looking for Bob Uecker cards

    My Ebay Auctions
  • tigerdeantigerdean Posts: 910 ✭✭✭
    I hear your pain. Patience grasshopper, Patience image
  • hhmag70hhmag70 Posts: 2,107
    It is only "overpriced" when you go to sell it and take a hit. If you hold it for a period of time it may actually become a money maker.
  • detroitfan2detroitfan2 Posts: 3,342 ✭✭✭✭
    I'm guessing this is the one:

    North Star Dream

    I would say go for it Johnny, Per Olov is a tough find in any grade!
  • PowderedH2OPowderedH2O Posts: 2,443 ✭✭
    I've paid 300% for something that I've looked for and not seen for over a year. But it was something that completed a set and having looked for a year, I knew it wasn't coming around again anytime soon. So, I overpaid. No regrets.
    Successful dealings with shootybabitt, LarryP, Doctor K, thedutymon, billsgridirongreats, fattymacs, shagrotn77, pclpads, JMDVM, gumbyfan, itzagoner, rexvos, al032184, gregm13, californiacards3, mccardguy1, BigDaddyBowman, bigreddog, bobbyw8469, burke23, detroitfan2, drewsef, jeff8877, markmac, Goldlabels, swartz1, blee1, EarlsWorld, gseaman25, kcballboy, jimrad, leadoff4, weinhold, Mphilking, milbroco, msassin, meteoriteguy, rbeaton and gameusedhoop.
  • Dpeck100Dpeck100 Posts: 10,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If the $16 card that is shown is the one, a double at a bar costs that much.

    If the card in question was in the high hundreds or thousands this is a totally different situation, but a Gem Mint card that you need for a set at $16 you should be hitting the buy it now as fast as you can.

  • HoofHeartedHoofHearted Posts: 2,537 ✭✭


    << <i>I've paid 300% for something that I've looked for and not seen for over a year. But it was something that completed a set and having looked for a year, I knew it wasn't coming around again anytime soon. So, I overpaid. No regrets. >>



    Bingo! I did that just last Christmas Eve to complete my '62Topps baseball set. See this thread,,,
    imageimageimageSenators/Twins Type Collection
  • MULLINS5MULLINS5 Posts: 4,517 ✭✭✭
    I paid $220 for the PSA 10 Mike Bossy AS #209 approximately three years ago.

    I sold it for $100 less.

    Like H20 said, if it is something you need, have been searching for, and will complete or come close to finishing a set -- may be worth it.

    Good luck!
  • detroitfan2detroitfan2 Posts: 3,342 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>If the $16 card that is shown is the one, a double at a bar costs that much.

    If the card in question was in the high hundreds or thousands this is a totally different situation, but a Gem Mint card that you need for a set at $16 you should be hitting the buy it now as fast as you can. >>



    FYI, I just found the most obscure North Star I could on ebay and provided a link. I'm pretty certain that is not the card. Just my own way of cracking myself up.
  • Dpeck100Dpeck100 Posts: 10,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Unless the buyer is trying to turn the card over for a profit, you in many cases just have to bite the bullet and purchase the card for the enjoyment of it and the pleasure of knowing you acomplished your goal.


    If it is truely a rare card that will not come up on a regular basis there may be others who want the card just as bad and you will be kicking yourself for not grabbing it when you could have.


    I say buy it and don't look back!



  • MULLINS5MULLINS5 Posts: 4,517 ✭✭✭
    Unless the buyer is not trying to turn the card over for a profit, you in many cases just don't have to bite the bullet and purchase the card for the enjoyment of it and the pleasure of knowing you did not acomplished your goal.


    If it is not truely a rare card that will come up on a regular basis there may not be others who don't want the card just as bad and you will not be kicking yourself for grabbing it when you could have.


    I say don't buy it and look back!
  • akuracy503akuracy503 Posts: 1,923 ✭✭✭
    It really depends.....are you a go getter?..?..?..?

    Git R Done!



    << <i>I was looking on ebay at a card with a BIN. The card is priced about 300% more than what it would sell at auction. This card hasn't come up for auction in the past that I remember. I am also ashamed to say what the card is because I am considering buying it. So I am wondering how much have you over paid for cards in the past? >>

    CU Ancient Members badge member.

    Collection: https://flickr.com/photos/185200668@N06/albums

  • jaderockjaderock Posts: 185 ✭✭
    I've paid 3000% over BV before...that's $30 for a $1BV card that I needed.

    On the other hand, I've flipped cards for same % gain.

    To me, you "overpay" on some and "underpay/steal" on others...In the end, it all balances out, so I say go for it!
    Most complete single player collection: ULTIMATE MARK BRUNELL COLLECTION
    image
  • frankhardyfrankhardy Posts: 8,143 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I paid $56 for a card that was worth about $0.05. I am a Cardinals collector and I needed a very obscure item. It was a box bottom card from 1988 Fleer Superstars. It was simply a Cardinals logo card. The 1988 Fleer Superstars was one of those boxed sets with 44 cards.

    Well, those sets came in display boxes with several boxed sets in them. A case had 4 display boxes. Each display box had the Cardinals logo card. The only way I could find the card was to buy a whole case. Believe me, I looked for a solid 2 years and never saw that stupid card. I bought the case for $56, opened it up, cut one of the Cardinals logo cards, sealed it back up, listed it on Ebay with full displcoser, and it sold for $15.50. So, in reality, I paid over $40 for a card that is worth $0.05.

    Shane

  • thehallmarkthehallmark Posts: 1,332 ✭✭✭
    90% of what I buy is 1990 Pro Set football so, by definition, I overpay severely all the time no matter how little I spend.
  • smtjoysmtjoy Posts: 617
    I paid $200 for a Jagr OPC rookie PSA 10, about 10 years ago that VCP's for $18.63 now. Lesson learned.
  • lifeshouldbefunlifeshouldbefun Posts: 431
    If you have purchased anything from "wheretheyaint", you should add your name to this thread.

    Was looking for a '64 PSA 9 Koufax

    They have one listed at $1495
    There is a higher grade 9 for $725 BIN
  • markj111markj111 Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭


    << <i>If you have purchased anything from "wheretheyaint", you should add your name to this thread.

    Was looking for a '64 PSA 9 Koufax

    They have one listed at $1495
    There is a higher grade 9 for $725 BIN >>



    No kidding! Those guys list cards at prices that would make Levi blush. I asked if they wanted to buy a PSA 9 Palmer rookie and a dead centered PSA 8 61 Mantle A.S. I figured that as much as they charged, they probably paid top dollar. Wrong-they offered me about 1/2 what I eventually sold them for.
  • johnny1976johnny1976 Posts: 440 ✭


    The hallmark,

    You are getting very very close. I just can't bring myself to pull the trigger.

    I am not a member to submit cards so I buy my cards graded on ebay, however I think its time to get a membership. I know buying raw off ebay is a crap shoot, so if I am looking for 9's and 10's do you think it would be better just buying the card as is for 35 dollars or submitting?
  • johnny1976johnny1976 Posts: 440 ✭


    rlange5,

    This kind of card would be sold by 4sc for 10 dollars.
  • CrazyMind2017CrazyMind2017 Posts: 1,205 ✭
    If you only have 2-3 cards to submit, and you know for sure you won't be submitting any additional cards for a full year, you're better off not paying the membership fee. Non-members can have most regular cards graded for $15 each. Depending on the value, condition, and availability of the cards in question, it might be wise to pay $15 per in some limited situations.
  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    <How much have you over paid for a card?>

    Depends on who is asking. If it is the IRS, shouldn't it be too much, for every card ever purchased?
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • thehallmarkthehallmark Posts: 1,332 ✭✭✭


    << <i>The hallmark,

    You are getting very very close. I just can't bring myself to pull the trigger.

    I am not a member to submit cards so I buy my cards graded on ebay, however I think its time to get a membership. I know buying raw off ebay is a crap shoot, so if I am looking for 9's and 10's do you think it would be better just buying the card as is for 35 dollars or submitting? >>



    I'd advise against becoming a member until you have a stockpile of cards you want to submit during cheap specials. Or wait for a group submission on this site. Or befriend a member. Joining in order to submit worthless cards is a money-sucking proposition and should only be done if that's the only way to achieve your collecting goals. If this is something you are considering, PM me the details. I'm sort of an expert on this.

    If the card you are referring to will truly bring you LOADS of happiness, I'd spend the $35. I just bought a pizza that cost me $35 and all it brought me was acid reflux. I would much rather have purchased a happy card.

    The key here is to think short and long term. If it's a card you are 90% sure you'll want to keep for life, that alone justifies a bit of overspending. If it's a card you may not care about in a year, maybe it's best to wait and see if your feelings change or if your need for it gets stronger. To me, this process is essential for becoming a focused collector.
  • alnavmanalnavman Posts: 4,129 ✭✭✭
    several years ago when I put together a PSA 8 1960 Topps football set I paid $400 for the Unitas card. Most I ever paid for one single card. Wish I still had that set but had to sell it......
  • alnavmanalnavman Posts: 4,129 ✭✭✭
    OOPS...my bad, bear with me guys, I just got home from work and misread the title......I didn't think I overpaid for the Unitas at the time..........
  • Brianruns10Brianruns10 Posts: 227 ✭✭
    I think it depends on the quality of the card versus availability of similar examples.

    For examples, supposing I were offered a 52 Mantle. For me to buy, it would have to be very nice, with good centering, at a fairly competitive price, because I have seen enough examples up for sale, Ebay and elsewhere, to know that if I didn't but that one, another would come soon enough.

    Yet, if I were offered a '52 Eddie Mathews with good centering, color and corners, I would be willing pay a substantial premium over book value, because I've seen far fewer examples of this card come up for sale, and even fewer with good centering.

    It comes to the quality, how much you want it, and if you think another offer will come again or not.
Sign In or Register to comment.