Options
Large Cent Collectors - I need your help!
llafoe
Posts: 7,220 ✭✭
On Monday, I'm buying a collection of Large Cents that have been stored in a SDB since 1973. The collection ranges from a holed 1793 to MS-something 1850s. These were purchased from the auction houses in the 1960s.
Which TPG should I send the collection to be graded?
Do I have to identify the Sheldon # or will the TPG identify the #?
What are the obvious things I should look for in copper... pitting? verdigris? ?
He also has approximately $100 in silver pulled from circulation in the 1940s-1960s.
How much is the Early American Cents 1949 Sheldon book worth?
Which TPG should I send the collection to be graded?
Do I have to identify the Sheldon # or will the TPG identify the #?
What are the obvious things I should look for in copper... pitting? verdigris? ?
He also has approximately $100 in silver pulled from circulation in the 1940s-1960s.
How much is the Early American Cents 1949 Sheldon book worth?
WANTED: Cincinnati Reds TEAM Cards
0
Comments
RMR: 'Wer, wenn ich schriee, hörte mich denn aus der Engel Ordnungen?'
CJ: 'No one!' [Ain't no angels in the coin biz]
<< <i>Buying a collection of coins you don't know how to value? Hmm...... >>
I've been married three times... are you challenging my judgement?
If you are considering having the coins graded/slabbed, stick to varieties that are in the Red Book (especially for middle-
and late-date large cents).
Look for porosity/verdigris/tooling/recoloration. Many coins that sell raw, net graded according to EAC standards,
will not grade if sent in to NGC or PCGS.
RMR: 'Wer, wenn ich schriee, hörte mich denn aus der Engel Ordnungen?'
CJ: 'No one!' [Ain't no angels in the coin biz]
Sheldon's 'Penny Whimsy' or 'Early American Cents' will get you through 1793 to 1814. John Wright's 'The Cent Book' covers 1816 to 1839 beautifully, and Bob Grellman's attribution guide covers 1840 to 1857 in great detail. Good luck! Hope you find an R-6 or r-7 variety! TomT.
Check out some of my 1794 Large Cents on www.coingallery.org
<< <i>On Monday, I'm buying a collection of Large Cents that have been stored in a SDB since 1973. The collection ranges from a holed 1793 to MS-something 1850s. These were purchased from the auction houses in the 1960s.
Which TPG should I send the collection to be graded?
Do I have to identify the Sheldon # or will the TPG identify the #?
What are the obvious things I should look for in copper... pitting? verdigris? ?
He also has approximately $100 in silver pulled from circulation in the 1940s-1960s.
How much is the Early American Cents 1949 Sheldon book worth? >>
Wow, I'm jealous. I wish I could come across an early copper collection that's been in a SDB for almost 40 years! LOL
If they dont seem damaged (holed, bent, corroded, pitted) I'd send them to PCGS (Use economy for a large number, otherwise it's going to cost you $50 per coin). I believe PCGS attributes major varieties without additional cost. Perhaps someone else could correct me if I'm wrong.
The damaged ones could be sent to NCS if you wanted, otherwise just keep them raw in a 2x2 or something. I would LOVE to see photos when you can take some!
Best of luck!
<< <i>Buying a collection of coins you don't know how to value? Hmm...... >>
That's what I was thinking also.....I have been dabbling in large cents for over 20 years, and I'm still learning. An EAC collector/part time dealer friend of mine who has been doing large cents since 1960 acquired a complete set in a National Coin album this past summer (which had been assembled in the 1950's and 60's), and he spent at least a week on it, and still wound up needing some help from copper specialist Bob Grellman on some of them.
I don't know how much time you have or the level of involvement you are willing to make. The Redbook is probably a good place for starters. I wouldn't worry about attributing Sheldon varieties (which end with the 1814 cent) and the Newcomb varieties (which start in 1816) just yet. The Greysheet is GENERALLY low on large cent values - but, may be useful to you. The Redbook prices likewise are way off, high and low, on many of the large cents. Copper Quotes by Robinson is good, but may be a bit complicated to use at this stage of the game. Problems of any kind, (you mentioned pitting and verdigris - there is also corrosion, scratches, rim dings, cleaned and recolored coins, burnishing, and other things which bring the values down considerably. Be careful with the key dates as well. There are multiple electrotype fakes of the early dates, and the 1799 (if the set has one) probably has more fakes then genuine coins in existence....and some of the alterations were done >100 years ago.
Good luck and keep us posted. And don't be shy about offering them for sale on the BST if you aren't keeping them
Tom
I'm not keeping any and will offer them all on the BST, including the silver... or maybe I'll offer them in Long Beach or St. Louis?
I knew it would happen.
<< <i>If you come to St. Louis with them, there are several Large Cent dealers who will be there. And if you do, let the rest of us know how to contact you. >>
I'll be the guy carrying 100 Large Cents with the deer in the headlight look on his face... should be easy to spot!
<< <i>Several flips that I have only have 'Attributed by J. R. Grellman EAC #575' but maybe if you Google that, you can find something more substantial. If you can't find anything and no one else on here can help, I'll call my dealer friend. >>
I just sent him an e-mail asking if he was attending Long Beach.
You have to identify the variety to have PCGS
acknowledge it . For my money I would send them to our host.IMHO
PO Box 161055 Altamonte Springs FL 32716-1055
407-682-9592
ljefferys@cfl.rr.com
and he does still attribute and grade (EAC grades) for $1 per coin.
If you're asking how much to pay for that book from the collector...I'd say $35 if it's raggy, $50 if it's nice worn book and the dustjacket isn't shredded, $75-$100 if it looks like he bought it yesterday.
FYI, even most EAC guys don't attribute late dates because there are so many. Grellman is one of a very few who can eyeball attribute them (i.e. without a book!!!).
Have fun!!
<< <i>Bob is at:
PO Box 161055 Altamonte Springs FL 32716-1055
407-682-9592
ljefferys@cfl.rr.com
and he does still attribute and grade (EAC grades) for $1 per coin. >>
A big +1. If I were in the OP's shoes, I'd get them all to Bob.
<< <i>Does anyone have Bob Grellman's contact info?
I'm not keeping any and will offer them all on the BST, including the silver... or maybe I'll offer them in Long Beach or St. Louis? >>
Nah, do the board first. Unless you get a very honest dealer, who knows what he is doing, and is honest (did I say HONEST?), then you will likely do the best on the BST.
Good ones should sell quickly if priced right and the others will still sell as well....whereas maybe some dealers would lowball a bit on the lesser ones in particular....
Congrats on getting a chance like this....I'm jealous
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment