What is the difference between RED FLIP PSA/DNA and BLUE FLIP PSA DNA??

I am sure this has been asked before, but I sure don't know they answer...can someone tell me what the difference is? And when you submtted signed cards, do you ask for one particular flip over the other??
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Red flip is for both PSA/DNA authentication of the signature(s) AND a PSA grade on the overall item, typically a card or ticket. If the signature is authenticated, and the card/ticket is also authenticated but trimmed/altered, it can be slabbed with a red flip with a grade of AUTH only. If there's no trimming or altering, the card or ticket can be assigned a number grade, as it normally would be without a signature. However, the grade assigned will be an overall grade that takes the condition of both the card/ticket itself AND the signature into consideration. So if you have a card that would otherwise be gemmint-10 but the signature is smudged, you just blew your chance at a gemmint-10 card.
It's not like baseball grading, where the signature gets a totally separate grade that's independent from the grade assigned to the ball itself.
But to throw a monkey wrench in the whole thing...I have seen red flips where the card itself was not graded but was given and "authentic" designation and thats not for the autograph.
If the card is really beat up and it's not a high value card in that condition unsigned, then AUTH is probably ok, since the only real reason anyone would want it is for the signature anyway. Again, depends on both the item and the buyer.
I just went through this with my Perfect Game ticket that I updated a couple minutes ago. I ended up choosing to get a number grade in a red flip.
The color of the flip is determined by which submission form you use I believe. Or maybe how you fill it out.
<< <i>The color of the flip is determined by which submission form you use I believe. Or maybe how you fill it out. >>
I am glad I am not the only one confused. I have 5 or 6 cards that are currently in blue flip slabs, that I would like to send in to get moved to red flip slabs. I also have another 6 or 7 raw auto'd cards that I would like to have put in the red flips as well, but have no idea how to fill out the form, or better yet, what I will even be charged for the service. So they just sit here and wait.
<< <i>Currently there is a "red" flip special running for cards - personally I think it's the best special PSA runs... Just fill out a normal sub form and write the Jan $10 Red Flip special and PSA will figure everything else out. There is a check box to check if you want the card to get a number grade. >>
Edit: Im a moron! I found it!
Red graded the card/ticket and auto.
<< <i><< Currently there is a "red" flip special running for cards - personally I think it's the best special PSA runs... Just fill out a normal sub form and write the Jan $10 Red Flip special and PSA will figure everything else out. There is a check box to check if you want the card to get a number grade. >> >>
And the red flip is for NORMAL series cards (ie, 1954 Topps, 1956 Topps, 1955 Bowman, etc) that happen to be signed? Would the larger Perez Steele cards fall under red as well, or would that be blue?? I will kid you not, all this blows my mind....
I feel like I need to take a PSA begginer course on this stuff......PSA/DNA 101!
Blue flip able to be added to PSA/DNA registry
red flip able to be added to PSA registry....that's a helluva drug!
I think.
CDsNuts, 1/9/15
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If you are buying the card for the autograph - blue flip
If you are buying the card for the card - red flip
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." Dr. Seuss
1)When PSA slabs an autographed card in a blue flip, they are only making an opinion as to the authenticity of the autograph, they are not making an opinion as to the authenticity of the card itself. For cards that are valuable, this is extremely important, because if you buy a blue flipped autographed card, you have no independent verification that the card itself is authentic and unaltered, you only have verification that the auto is legit. If you call PSA and ask them, they will tell you that a card grader and authenticator, never reviews the blue flipped cards, only an autograph authenticator does. Thus, say for instance you are purchasing a Mickey Mantle signed rookie card, wouldn’t you want to know that BOTH the graph and the card are good as opposed to only knowing that the sig was good, but not knowing that the card might be a counterfeit?? With the red flips, PSA is making a judgement on BOTH the autograph and the card.
2) When you send in a card for a blue flip, you have to pay different and higher fees (unless you catch a special) based on different signers. IE, Michael Jordan is $100, Tiger is $100, common player is $20, Mantle is $75 or so, etc. When you send in a card for a red flip, you pay one set price unless the card itself is valued over $500.00 then you simply pay the next level up for that one. It is far cheaper to get cards slabbed with the red, then with the blue. I think PSA does that because the red flips can only be gotten by ($$$ members only) while the blue flips could be gotten by anyone.
3) I personally don’t like the grading scales on the blue flipped autographs. It is far too easy. 10’s are passed out like candy so to me it waters down the desirability of the numeric grade (perhaps not for the short term, but for the long term when people figure it out) . Additionally, autographs are subject to environmental factors way more than cards are, so a blue flip autographed card might be a 10 today, and then in two years if exposed to light, you might not even be able to see the graph, however, it will still be housed in a 10 holder. To me, that’s totally bogus and I don’t see the long term market being able to sustain premium prices for high grades on routine graphs. Additionally, a person’s own eyes can easily discern the eye appeal of a graph, they don’t need a grader to call it a 10 to know that It is bold, clear, and typical of the signer.
4) I buy and sell all the time, and I’ve found that it is far easier to sell autographed cards at better prices that are in a red flip with card grade then blue flip either with or without autograph grade (with a few exceptions of course and only applies to the items I deal in, signed rookie cards). For high dollar items, if it is in a blue flip, the first question people ask is “Is the card authentic and unaltered?”¨, if it’s in a red flip with “Authentic” only, (in other words, no card grade), then the first question they ask is “Is the card unaltered?”. I’ve found that even low graded cards in red flips tend to sell for more then ones just graded authentic. People seem to understand that for a variety of reasons, autographed cards are much harder to obtain in high card grades, then unautographed cards due to the reasons that damage can occur at so many points of the autograph acquisition. This also tremendously helps the sale of high grade red flipped autographed cards.
Just my two cents,
Mike
Mike
<< <i>Oh, and MBMiller, for the cards that you already have in blue flips, you don't have to put them through the autograph card grading and authentication process again, you can just send them in just like you would an unsigned card to PSA, and they will red flip it with card grade if it qualifies, and most importantly, you only pay the card grading fee which is usually cheaper than the autograph card and authentication fee.
Mike >>
Just like Mike... it best to find a nice grading special and sub in the blue to become red. I just used the dec 5 day $10 special to move some blues to reds.
<< <i>I agree wholeheartedly with everything thenavarro said, but I should point out that non-members can submit anything. They're not just eligible for pricing specials. >>
Really? Did they change it? It used to be that non collector club members could submit anything to PSA/DNA (blue flips), but could not submit anything to PSA (red flips). That was one of the primary advantages to being a member is that you had direct submission priviledges.
Mike
PSA Services
If you click there, near the top there are two separate submission forms, one for members and one for non-members.
I also was looking at the submission form to submit unsigned cards for grading, and it says non-members can get grading done at $10 per card with a minimum 10 card submission.
Fewer than 10 cards would be $15 each.
ETA: I'm not 100% sure on this, but the bulk discount may have been changed recently. It is now available only to members. 10-49 cards $10 each, 50-99 cards $8 each, 100+ cards $6 each
Plus there's the current registry special for $5 each through the end of February.
I seem to remember back in November that the $10 bulk discount for 10+ cards was available to non-members, but I wouldn't bet my life on it.
<< <i>Well I just had a signed ticket pop in a red flip and I've never been a member.
I also was looking very closely at the submission form to submit unsigned cards for grading, and it says non-members can get grading done at $10 per card with a minimum 10 card submission.
Fewer than 10 cards would be $15 each. >>
Interesting, thanks for pointing that out. I'll have to update my "blue vs. red" writings in the future to correct that then. The blue vs. red question comes up all the time, so I just cut and paste the one I originally wrote.
Mike
Edited to add: My bad, I misread the question. I thought it said "What is the difference between a University of Michigan football fan and a puppy dog?". My apologies.