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Set building question

SidePocketSidePocket Posts: 2,901 ✭✭✭
in Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum
I'm building a 56 Topps set mostly raw, but I have most of the stars and some commons graded. What are your thoughts on cracking middle grade cards that have great appearance but a hard to see flaw and adding them to the set raw or leaving them slabbed? Would you handle stars vs commons differently in this scenario?

Here's a couple examples:

image

"Molon Labe"

Comments

  • detroitfan2detroitfan2 Posts: 3,342 ✭✭✭✭
    I think it is a personal preference. If you're planning on keeping the set for a while and wish to display it in sheets or in another manner that does not lend itself to having graded cards, cracking the cards out is a fine way to go. If you plan to sell the set at sometime in the near future, you may wish to keep the graded cards slabbed. Of course, the higher the card value, the tougher the decision. The 1956 Mantle would be a tough one to crack out, for example. If you do crack out the cards, you could always save the flip and put it in the pocket or sleeve with the card for future reference.

    I will say this: when it comes to building vintage sets raw, especially in mid-grade, I would always buy any card with any type of value ($50 nr mt raw value?) graded as opposed to raw. Just my personal opinion, but I'd be willing to bet that you can't find those 2 cards that you are showing in the similar raw condition for what you paid for them already graded.

    My dad has a raw 1956 Topps set (about ex) with the top 8 or so cards graded (some PSA, one or two SGC, and I think a BVG Snider). He has his in a binder, and it does make it a bit more challenging to "enjoy" the set.

    Good luck, those are some sweet cards you have already.
  • mcolney1mcolney1 Posts: 987 ✭✭✭
    I'm upgrading many of my sets as my HOF football pursuit has slowed to a crawl.

    I'm always looking for mid grade stars and I crack them out for my raw sets. I just don't trust ebay on buying raw stars from the 60s and 70s.

    I wouldn't crack out a star in psa 8 or better, too much risk.

    I love buying nice looking stars in mid grade because you get an authentic card that looks great in sheets for often times less than the grading and shipping fee the seller paid. I let them take the hit on the grade and grading fees and reap the rewards.

    Tony
    Collecting Topps, Philadelphia and Kellogg's from 1964-1989
  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,130 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think buying mid-grade cards in holders and cracking them out can be a great way to build a set. They're often cheaper than if the card were raw, especially if the card looks high grade except for a microflaw only visible on very close inspection. In fact, I have a few '56 cards that fit your purpose in auction now. image Sorry for the shameless plug.
    https://ebay.com/sch/gemint/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
  • jeff8877jeff8877 Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭
    I usually pick a dollar value that I am comfortable with buying raw versus graded in case there is some issue with the card and can't get your money back. Let's say it is $50, then I buy everything > $50 graded and everything else raw. If I pick up a nice looking card for less than the $50 graded I crack it out and put in my binder. Your tolerance level might be different but has worked well for me.

    Jeff

    PS...I also save front/back pics of cards that I have cracked out so if/when I go to sell, it takes some of the risk out of buying the set for the potential buyer.
  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭
    I cant see taking value away by cracking them out. If it is a display issue or personal choice, well fine but it would make them worth less IMO
  • mcolney1mcolney1 Posts: 987 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I cant see taking value away by cracking them out. If it is a display issue or personal choice, well fine but it would make them worth less IMO >>



    Not for guys like Waverly - crack outs increase the value of his card by two, three, four times. A little white out/sharpie helps too.
    Collecting Topps, Philadelphia and Kellogg's from 1964-1989
  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>I cant see taking value away by cracking them out. If it is a display issue or personal choice, well fine but it would make them worth less IMO >>



    Not for guys like Waverly - crack outs increase the value of his card by two, three, four times. A little white out/sharpie helps too. >>



    image zing~!
  • SidePocketSidePocket Posts: 2,901 ✭✭✭
    If you do crack out the cards, you could always save the flip and put it in the pocket or sleeve with the card for future reference.

    I like this idea. The set would be a keeper but of course you never know down the road. What I experimented with today is to take a copy of the slabbed card including the flip, put the copy in the binder with the flip showing in the back side of the card. Came out kinda cool and fills in the empty pockets in the binder.

    Here's what it came out like. The Aaron and the Robinson are copies.

    image



    "Molon Labe"

  • mrpeanut39mrpeanut39 Posts: 841 ✭✭✭


    << <i>If you do crack out the cards, you could always save the flip and put it in the pocket or sleeve with the card for future reference.

    I like this idea. The set would be a keeper but of course you never know down the road. What I experimented with today is to take a copy of the slabbed card including the flip, put the copy in the binder with the flip showing in the back side of the card. Came out kinda cool and fills in the empty pockets in the binder.

    Here's what it came out like. The Aaron and the Robinson are copies.

    image >>



    Where's Big Klu?
    "I think the guy must be practicing voodoo or something. Check out his eyes. Rico's crazier than a peach orchard sow." -- Whitey Herzog, Spring Training 1973
  • SidePocketSidePocket Posts: 2,901 ✭✭✭
    Still looking for a nice Klu!!!

    "Molon Labe"

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