It's been awhile since anyone's discussed tethering a camera to their PC. Is this now a realistic op
keets
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I have hesitated for technical and "skill level" reasons to spend the long dollar on a camera(I would add that I'm cheap, too), hoping to be able to eventually tether via USB cable to my PC so I can make adjustments in Live-time instead of with an edit. Forum member JapanJohn used to do regular updates but it's been over two years since any threads on the topic that I could find in the archives. Can members "in-the-know" list camera's by Model which offer this capability along with any helpful notes based on their experience?? Also, any software needed to accomplish this??
Thanks in advance.
Al H.
Thanks in advance.
Al H.
0
Comments
I still haven't bought the dslr Nikon setup I'd like for coins, but there are a number of other setups that would be fun to try. I shot a good many photos for marine botany using a trinocular microscope. I've mentioned them many moons ago. Lighting is such a toughy. Try wanting to keep a bunch of itty bitty critters alive on the stage while you're viewing them under/over a hot light. sheesh.
Anyhoo, I like to hear about other people's use of macro, too. thanks for the thread.
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Its called Canon tethered Live View. I use it on a Canon T1i and it works great. This is the way to go. You can focus the camera from your PC in either manual mode or auto, while watching the image change.
Mike, do you find the image displayed before the picture is taken identical to after?? that seems to be the problem with my camera and the onboard LCD.
I shot this last night with an axial lighting set-up.
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Heck even when a camera was capable of doing it, it wasn't something that was advertised in the specs. Maybe buried in the manual.
Best bet is to look at Breeze Systems web page and their Remote Pro Software. They provide lists of cameras able to tether. Nikon cameras are controlled with Camera Control Pro 2.
Some Canon point and shoots can have firmware modifications done called CHDK which may or may not give you remote tethering capability. Don't know as I've never messed with it for that although I do run CHDK in a couple of my Canon point and shoots.
If you want to take the best photos of coins, hands down the best way to do that is to tether the camera and shoot from a computer. Is it 100% necessary? No, but it will save you a ton of time and net better results quicker.
John
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<< <i>I use a Nikon D300 and the Nikon software (Camera Control Pro 2) to do it. It works superbly. >>
I have a Nikon D60 but I haven't pulled the trigger on the software yet. Since it is at about $145, I'd rather spend the money on coins or books.
JH
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How many folks are using a light box with their set up?
Wikipedia Live View
<< <i>
<< <i>I use a Nikon D300 and the Nikon software (Camera Control Pro 2) to do it. It works superbly. >>
I have a Nikon D60 but I haven't pulled the trigger on the software yet. Since it is at about $145, I'd rather spend the money on coins or books.
JH >>
I dont believe the D60 has the option and the software wont enable it. It is an onboard firmware feature and it either has it or it doesnt. I had the problem with the Canon 20D, it was probably hardware capable but they made you buy the 20Da to have it enabled and none of the software was going to do it.
<< <i>I use a Nikon D300 and the Nikon software (Camera Control Pro 2) to do it. It works superbly.
Mike, do you find the image displayed before the picture is taken identical to after?? that seems to be the problem with my camera and the onboard LCD. >>
In my experience the image is not going to be the same because the shutter settings wil always determine the final look of the image. It helps treemndously and you you will be able to make adjustments in lighting much better as you get used to what combinations work but an openshutter is always going to be differnet than the live feed just because they are different mechanisms.
like fun...
Some cheap cameras have an A/V out which can be connected to a video input on your computer so that you can look at it instead of the back of the camera when composing a picture, but you're not going to get tethered shooting on anything really cheap. I quickly scanned the CHDK site to see if there's the possibility of a hack that allows it on cheap Canon cameras, but didn't see anything.
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<< <i>Tethered shooting makes it much easier to make quick adjustments to the picture you've taken. It also keeps your hands off the camera while taking the picture. If you're going to spend the money on a dSLR for pictures, you may as well get the software to make your life easier. I don't have "live view" on my camera, but I don't see a pressing need for it, as I like looking through the viewfinder for lighting and focus issues.
Some cheap cameras have an A/V out which can be connected to a video input on your computer so that you can look at it instead of the back of the camera when composing a picture, but you're not going to get tethered shooting on anything really cheap. I quickly scanned the CHDK site to see if there's the possibility of a hack that allows it on cheap Canon cameras, but didn't see anything. >>
That video out is for reviewing pictures already taken. Live Viewing, or tethering is only possible if the firmware/hardware of the camera has that option and the list provided are going to be the only cameras that have it. Yes some models that have the option purposely disabled to encourage sale of higher models will be hackable in this way. But the presence of that A/V output jack you mention is not what enables this feature. I am not sure about Nikon or the other cameras on the list but with Canon there is no additional software needed to enable this. It is on the cd that comes with the camera. I would imagine Nikon has a similar piece of included software. There are 3rd party softwares that also supply an interface for the feature, and some might offer more features and/or convenience over the included one, but they are not required.
<< <i>List of cameras at about half way down on the entry
Wikipedia Live View >>
Live view is the ability of a camera's LCD to display, in real time, what the lens is seeing before and during the shot. Tethering is a second, remote "live view" using a computer's larger monitor to duplicate the camera's LCD. The advantage of tethering is a larger view of what the camera lens is seeing. Quality of the view will depend on the quality of the computer monitor. Tethering offers a great advantage in setting up the best lighting for the shot.
The only way to make an economic system truly stable is to permit the free market to take over.
<< <i>
<< <i>List of cameras at about half way down on the entry
Wikipedia Live View >>
Live view is the ability of a camera's LCD to display, in real time, what the lens is seeing before and during the shot. Tethering is a second, remote "live view" using a computer's larger monitor to duplicate the camera's LCD. The advantage of tethering is a larger view of what the camera lens is seeing. Quality of the view will depend on the quality of the computer monitor. Tethering offers a great advantage in setting up the best lighting for the shot. >>
Yes you are technically correct in correcting me on the difference, but the 2 features have been implemented together as far as I have seen and the tethering is just an extension of the lcd display to the monitor in reality. The term Live View for example was never assigned to the ability to view on the point and shoots which have been capable of doing so since the onset of digi-photogrpahy basically.
The live view I have not been as impressed about. It helps but I found the focus sharper looking through the camera, this is on a nikon.
<< <i>It is the only way I would ever shoot. Highly recommend it.
The live view I have not been as impressed about. It helps but I found the focus sharper looking through the camera, this is on a nikon. >>
Another understatement, lol.. It is a must, it takes away the guessing factor, I can't see anything on the little 3" LCD and putting my face through view finder jiggles the camera.. remote shooting with a mouse click. moving lights fraction of an inch
You can see the monitor and the luster of the Lincoln in the background of this shot - I push a light with my left while viewing the results and click with my right hand.
Question:
Around 1999 I dropped $1200 bucks on a 21" CRT monitor. I shopped and spent the extra bucks for .22 dot pitch. Recently, I was viewing my pics on a LCD and noticed much nicer sharper contrast. Much to my surprise I found 25 or 26" (don't remember) monitors everywhere for $250!
My question is:
Did anyone upgrade their monitor after they tethered their camera? What did you get or what did you wish you got? I thinks it's time to retire this 80lb dinosaur. Bigger is better right? Contrast ratios, I don't have memorized. what is an optimum ratio and dot pitch to look for with photographic images these days?
Thank you
I waited those extra years for flatscreen technology to improve before I tried one. I've been very pleased with my LG, W2343T. It's at least a year old by now.
I'm not up on all the specs, but a high screen refresh rate (e.g. 120 Hz) seems to be a shopping point, as does a high contrast ratio, 150,000:1 for example. Shoot, some hdtvs now have 240 and 480 Hz refresh rates.
Good luck with your monitor shopping.
<< <i>
<< <i>It is the only way I would ever shoot. Highly recommend it.
The live view I have not been as impressed about. It helps but I found the focus sharper looking through the camera, this is on a nikon. >>
Another understatement, lol.. It is a must, it takes away the guessing factor, I can't see anything on the little 3" LCD and putting my face through view finder jiggles the camera.. remote shooting with a mouse click. moving lights fraction of an inch
You can see the monitor and the luster of the Lincoln in the background of this shot - I push a light with my left while viewing the results and click with my right hand.
Question:
Around 1999 I dropped $1200 bucks on a 21" CRT monitor. I shopped and spent the extra bucks for .22 dot pitch. Recently, I was viewing my pics on a LCD and noticed much nicer sharper contrast. Much to my surprise I found 25 or 26" (don't remember) monitors everywhere for $250!
My question is:
Did anyone upgrade their monitor after they tethered their camera? What did you get or what did you wish you got? I thinks it's time to retire this 80lb dinosaur. Bigger is better right? Contrast ratios, I don't have memorized. what is an optimum ratio and dot pitch to look for with photographic images these days?
Thank you >>
The dot pitch no longer matters as LCDs/Plasmas are flat. The refresh rate is not as important because you are in a 2d environment. Most LCDs meant for computers are 60mhz and that is plenty for photography, though there is no harm in going higher. The most important factor will be resolution. That is where you will gain that sharpness you seek. If you go to full HD resolution, which you should, you may also need a video card that can output at that res.
<< <i>
<< <i>It is the only way I would ever shoot. Highly recommend it.
The live view I have not been as impressed about. It helps but I found the focus sharper looking through the camera, this is on a nikon. >>
Another understatement, lol.. It is a must, it takes away the guessing factor, I can't see anything on the little 3" LCD and putting my face through view finder jiggles the camera.. remote shooting with a mouse click. moving lights fraction of an inch
You can see the monitor and the luster of the Lincoln in the background of this shot - I push a light with my left while viewing the results and click with my right hand.
Question:
Around 1999 I dropped $1200 bucks on a 21" CRT monitor. I shopped and spent the extra bucks for .22 dot pitch. Recently, I was viewing my pics on a LCD and noticed much nicer sharper contrast. Much to my surprise I found 25 or 26" (don't remember) monitors everywhere for $250!
My question is:
Did anyone upgrade their monitor after they tethered their camera? What did you get or what did you wish you got? I thinks it's time to retire this 80lb dinosaur. Bigger is better right? Contrast ratios, I don't have memorized. what is an optimum ratio and dot pitch to look for with photographic images these days?
Thank you >>
Nope I do everything on my laptop. I travel to much to have a monitor to be worth anything to me.
why wouldn't I just buy a Hi- Def 1080p Television ?
I just upgraded to 100mm Canon lens and I am disappointed!!! While the resolution on my monitor is crisp and of higher detail, when I hit the shutter - the pics are blurry! This should have been click the lens on and shoot! apparently not.
Apparently I can't lock the mirror out of the way, besides it didn't lock it previously. so the shake from the mirror moving shouldn't be the problem however the shutter release sounds different than before... I am baffled. I thought the beauty of DSLR was seeing through the lens and being able to capture that.
Why I am not capturing the image on the screen the way my previous backyard engineered lens did has me panicking and creating this post!
help!
I guess I'll try the auto focus functions, except I don't think this lens will focus on auto at 6 inches.. I babble... sorry
<< <i>I use a Nikon D300 and the Nikon software (Camera Control Pro 2) to do it. It works superbly.
Mike, do you find the image displayed before the picture is taken identical to after?? that seems to be the problem with my camera and the onboard LCD. >>
Sorry, Keets, I missed your reply.
Yes, the images are very similar. I wouldn't call them identical.
That said, I image coins with virtually no custom settings outside of white balance.
The real value is seeing the effect of lighting before hand, and the ability to view the finished product (i.e. capture) within seconds of taking it. This makes the amount of time I spend taking a photo for a coin to go WAY down. From 15 minutes or more down to 2 minutes -- and a lot less shutter clicks to boot.
<< <i>It is the only way I would ever shoot. Highly recommend it.
The live view I have not been as impressed about. It helps but I found the focus sharper looking through the camera, this is on a nikon. >>
Todd and I had a brief discussion on this topic at FUN. While he can achieve better focus by looking through the lens, I find LiveView (and Camera Control Pro 2 to view it on-screen) far easier. My eyesight isn't what it used to be, admittedly. If you are having trouble achieveing critical focus using your eyes, you might try LiveView and CCP2.
<< <i>Todd and I had a brief discussion on this topic at FUN. While he can achieve better focus by looking through the lens, I find LiveView (and Camera Control Pro 2 to view it on-screen) far easier. My eyesight isn't what it used to be, admittedly. If you are having trouble achieveing critical focus using your eyes, you might try LiveView and CCP2. >>
Some is probably what you are accustomed to. I imagine Todd spends a lot of time on his feet and that his set up is at eye level, so thats what works best for him. The rest of us are probably arm chair quarterbacks that can't see past their noses.
Need to make some lighting adjustments.
I've got a Bogen Professional copystand (thanks, sbeverly!) but no suitable camera yet. (Mine is an old Mavica but I do not use it so much anymore- I tend to prefer ladymarcovan's Canon point-and-shoot.)
When I'm ready to take the plunge (perhaps with a used entry-level DSLR from some advanced whiz kid who's upgraded to something more snazzy), then I'll be wanting something tetherable, for sure.
Jim
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I have posted in the past on this, and also on one of the camera forums -- no luck yet.
I'm looking for an inexpensive camera (point and shoot is fine) that will work with tethering software on a Mac System OS10.7 (Lion).
My venerable G3 Canon Powershot's software (RemoteCapture) is no longer supported, it did a great job -- sample:
I heard the G9 may work, but I'd like to know for sure. I guess I can upgrade to a DSLR if I have to...then there's lenses, etc...
Lightroom 3
which is my preferred photo-editing program by leaps and bounds
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The Canon SD95 handbook describes how to use an HDMI cable to view pics on a HD TV....Would this work on my laptop instead of a TV? ...or just use a TV
...be kind since I feel I am missing something in the equation
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