3rd Dateless 1916 Standing Liberty Quarter found in Junk Silver ( Grade in first post)
Smittys
Posts: 9,876 ✭✭✭✭✭
Grade just posted
1 1 18625919 5704 1916 25C Standing Liberty US PO01
This is the Third my friend's found in Junk silver in two years,, talk about Lucky !!!
And this one will Grade (other two were genuine)
But what do you think it'll Grade ???
1 1 18625919 5704 1916 25C Standing Liberty US PO01
This is the Third my friend's found in Junk silver in two years,, talk about Lucky !!!
And this one will Grade (other two were genuine)
But what do you think it'll Grade ???
0
Comments
My War Nickels https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/nickels/jefferson-nickels-specialty-sets/jefferson-nickels-fs-basic-war-set-circulation-strikes-1942-1945/publishedset/94452
...AG-2
Would you clue us in please what the markers are
Tom
-Paul
Shield style and drapery detail are sure signs of a 16 SLQ, even at this heavily worn grade level.
Can anything in life be more exciting than that?????
It's still a bonafide 1-yr type coin and recognizable without the date present. The lack of a properly protected date made the date disappear long before the details did. Hence a coin with some reasonable detail left yet no date.
Are the following worth melt in dateless condition? 1793 chain cent, 1796 quarter, 1796/97 half dollar, 1836 RE half, 1794/95 Flowing hair dollar, etc.
roadrunner
<< <i>To me a dateless 1916 wouldn't be worth much more than silver. It is the date you want.
It's still a bonafide 1-yr type coin and recognizable without the date present. The lack of a properly protected date made the date disappear long before the details did. Hence a coin with some reasonable detail left yet no date.
Are the following worth melt in dateless condition? 1793 chain cent, 1796 quarter, 1796/97 half dollar, 1836 RE half, 1794/95 Flowing hair dollar, etc.
roadrunner >>
Yes roadrunner, I have nothing to add to this, as it's the perfect answer.
NICE FIND!!
You overlooked the keyword (actually 2 words) in my statement....."to me". I didn't mean to imply it was worthless. But I really wouldn't want it. Don't get me wrong if someone gave it to me I would take it and sell it for as much of that 3K as I could get!
I posted that prematurely. I wanted to say thanks to Johnny and Tahoe for the quick response even though it's not what I wanted to hear.
I do not have a reference on the distinctions between the 16 and 17 in variety 1. I'm going to look up the thread that Tahoe cited to see if I can learn a little more.
<< <i>Roadrunner and veryfine -
You overlooked the keyword (actually 2 words) in my statement....."to me". I didn't mean to imply it was worthless. But I really wouldn't want it. Don't get me wrong if someone gave it to me I would take it and sell it for as much of that 3K as I could get!
I didn't overlook the keywords, and I feel the same way you do, with a preference for full date SLQs.
I knew you really didn't see it as a "worthless" coin. If you did, I'd ask you to send all your useless garbage to me.
If you look at the incuse designer's initial M to the right of the portrait, on a 1916 SLQ the center legs meet about half-way down the letter and the bottom is perfectly vertical. If you covered the top half of the letter you would see three vertical lines. On the 1917 the center legs meet at the very bottom, so if you covered up the top of the initial you would see the two outside vertical lines and a small V in the middle. It is subtle but if you study them closely you can see the difference. Because the initial is incuse on the coin, it should be visible even when most of the obverse is worn away.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
<< <i>...this marker pic is from a past post by rld14.
Thanks! I was actually looking for that pic!
<< <i>Not long ago I made an animated GIF dissolving a 1916 SLQ into a 1917, trying to spot the differences (I would post it here but the images were high-resolution and the file size was enormous). I actually caught one pick-up point that I've never heard mentioned elsewhere, and which should be visible on even the most worn specimen.
If you look at the incuse designer's initial M to the right of the portrait, on a 1916 SLQ the center legs meet about half-way down the letter and the bottom is perfectly vertical. If you covered the top half of the letter you would see three vertical lines. On the 1917 the center legs meet at the very bottom, so if you covered up the top of the initial you would see the two outside vertical lines and a small V in the middle. It is subtle but if you study them closely you can see the difference. Because the initial is incuse on the coin, it should be visible even when most of the obverse is worn away.
Sean Reynolds >>
I'll host the GIF file if you email it to me.
Excellent, you guys are great.
You know i've only been back 2 days and already I've learned so much about this new series i'm delving further and further into!
Thanks for posting.
Cheers!
Kirk
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES
Lafayette Grading Set
<< <i>
<< <i>Not long ago I made an animated GIF dissolving a 1916 SLQ into a 1917, trying to spot the differences (I would post it here but the images were high-resolution and the file size was enormous). I actually caught one pick-up point that I've never heard mentioned elsewhere, and which should be visible on even the most worn specimen.
If you look at the incuse designer's initial M to the right of the portrait, on a 1916 SLQ the center legs meet about half-way down the letter and the bottom is perfectly vertical. If you covered the top half of the letter you would see three vertical lines. On the 1917 the center legs meet at the very bottom, so if you covered up the top of the initial you would see the two outside vertical lines and a small V in the middle. It is subtle but if you study them closely you can see the difference. Because the initial is incuse on the coin, it should be visible even when most of the obverse is worn away.
Sean Reynolds >>
I'll host the GIF file if you email it to me. >>
I'm tagging this so I can remember to send the file to you when I get back to work on Monday - thanks much for the offer.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
<< <i>1 1 18625919 5704 1916 25C Standing Liberty US PO01 >>
I see that this coin just brought $1,100 on ebay.
I'm quite impressed!