Question about PSA/DNA Blue/Red Labels

mexpo75

I have a Cal Ripken 82 Traded PSA/DNA blue label Gem Mint 10. Card is in great condition but not sure if it would be a 10. Would card be worth more with red label and grade for the card? Just dont know if I should send in for grade and red label. ie. comes back psa 8. Also, would 82 traded PSA 9 unsigned be worth more than say a psa 8 with the same gem mint 10 auto? Thanks for your opinions.

alifaxwa2

<< <i>I have a Cal Ripken 82 Traded PSA/DNA blue label Gem Mint 10. Card is in great condition but not sure if it would be a 10. Would card be worth more with red label and grade for the card? Just dont know if I should send in for grade and red label. ie. comes back psa 8. Also, would 82 traded PSA 9 unsigned be worth more than say a psa 8 with the same gem mint 10 auto? Thanks for your opinions. >>


Only answer I can give is that they dont allow a card grade and auto grade. So if you switch it to red label, you will lose the autograph grade.

Nascar360

I say keep it where it is. If the auto is graded you can add it to the PSA/DNA registry.

mbothner

I agree. Keep it as it is. I think the value of that card will be in the PSA 10 auto. If the card is as nice as you say then it will have extra value for eye appeal. Your other option would be to send it in on the $6 Special and only have it changed to a red flip if it grades whatever grade you specified as a minimum. I think that's how it works.

downtown

<< <i>

<< <i>So if you switch it to red label, you will lose the autograph grade. >>



I found this Red Label Bobby Hull auto card with the grade only for auto, not the card...Red Flip Hull auto card

I thought red flips were card grades and blue flips were auto grade....

did they do it differently some time ago?




Doug

alifaxwa2

<< <i>

<< <i>So if you switch it to red label, you will lose the autograph grade. >>



I found this Red Label Bobby Hull auto card with the grade only for auto, not the card...Red Flip Hull auto card

I thought red flips were card grades and blue flips were auto grade....

did they do it differently some time ago?

Doug >>


There was a time when everything went red. The bkue flip is a more recent creation.

thenavarro

That's a great looking Hull!!

MBMiller25

<< <i>Your other option would be to send it in on the $6 Special and only have it changed to a red flip if it grades whatever grade you specified as a minimum. >>



Where is this $6 special you speak of? I have a handfull of blue flips, that I would love to switch to red flips on this special. Thanks in advance.

leathtech

you could use this special for $10 with 5 day turn around...

PSA Set RegistrySM Grading Special
Sports and Non-Sports - $10 per card - No Minimum
•For Cards Valued Under $500 Each
•For Gold & Platinum Members
•Turnaround Time is (approx.) 5 business days

CrazyMind2017

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think the Hull with the red flip means the card was authenticated but not graded (or got a grade of "AUTH") and the signature was authenticated and graded 9.

The Ripken 10 in the blue flip only had the autograph authenticated and graded. The card was not authenticated, only slabbed because of the autograph, similar to a cut signature.

vladguerrero

Bumping an old thread, but I'm hoping for a quick answer here...

If a Red Flip has a Grade, but on the next line says PSA/DNA Certified CXXXXX (a PSA/DNA Cert #), but the cards also has a regular flip serial number... is it safe to assume the card is graded, and the signature (which was pack pulled) was Certified Authentic? I don't want to throw away hundreds of dollars on a card which "the auto" was graded... since that card could be bought for 1/2 the asking price.

Can anyone confirm that this card's condition received the final grade?

thenavarro

<< <i>Bumping an old thread, but I'm hoping for a quick answer here...

If a Red Flip has a Grade, but on the next line says PSA/DNA Certified CXXXXX (a PSA/DNA Cert #), but the cards also has a regular flip serial number... is it safe to assume the card is graded, and the signature (which was pack pulled) was Certified Authentic? I don't want to throw away hundreds of dollars on a card which "the auto" was graded... since that card could be bought for 1/2 the asking price.

Can anyone confirm that this card's condition received the final grade? >>



Yes, if it does not say auto grade only and it's red flipped, then it's the card that is graded, not the graph.

Mike

vladguerrero

thanks Mike, I was going to PM you but figured there was a chance you may not be on-line in a timely fashion, what was I thinking!

pulled the trigger, purchase made.

CrazyMind2017

Must now show pic.

vladguerrero

I think it's a Pop 1, the Cert # is classified as the "promo" version of this card, which it is not. Here's to Vlad having another good year!

thenavarro

<< <i>

I think it's a Pop 1, the Cert # is classified as the "promo" version of this card, which it is not. Here's to Vlad having another good year! >>



Great card! I'm still pissed at the Rangers for letting him get away this season. Hopefully they'll both still have succesful years.

Mike

CrazyMind2017

Nice card. I don't really understand the label. Did it come signed from the manufacturer and they had to verify the signature because it's from before 1998, or was it signed after the fact?

Also it seems weird that it has both PSA and PSA/DNA cert numbers. Was it maybe authenticated by PSA/DNA and returned raw before it was sent to be graded and slabbed?

vladguerrero

It's a certified auto (the seller sent me a scan of the back and it has the UD coa and you can see the UDA hologram on the front), so I guess it falls under the pre-1998 rules...