Coating vs. w/o coating
Since we address panel vs. cut and only allow one in master sets, depending on issue...can we not apply the same thinking in coating vs w/o coating for the late 90's Finest issues. I really have no interest in putting money into these cards as I don't care if it has the coating or not but the master sets keep showing both issues??
If they need to go one way or another....peel them all. That would be the stance when dealing with any other obstruction to the stats/card when dealing with "pop-up" type cards.
Do you think this is a Cosetta question?
Mike
If they need to go one way or another....peel them all. That would be the stance when dealing with any other obstruction to the stats/card when dealing with "pop-up" type cards.
Do you think this is a Cosetta question?
Mike
Kirby Puckett Master Set
0
Comments
I would never peel an undamaged, coated card.
An unpeeled card can always be peeled.
A peeled card can never be "unpeeled."
<< <i>I would never peel an undamaged, coated card.
An unpeeled card can always be peeled.
A peeled card can never be "unpeeled." >>
Spoken like a true prodigy!
I always peel.
However, for a registry set, both should be allowed as an "or" option. It's the same card.
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
I say leave them as they came from the factory.
<< <i>I would never peel an undamaged, coated card.
An unpeeled card can always be peeled.
A peeled card can never be "unpeeled." >>
. . . Your can unscrew a lightbulb . . .
very frustrating to have to obtain 2 versions especially when some of these cards
have very low print runs.
I agree with digicat that there should only be one entry for a particular card in any
registry set and either version should be acceptable. IMO the only exception to this would
be when a card came straight from the factory in a protected and non-protected variation.
Just FYI...The first time I submitted this card it had the coating...Cert #16842137 ( PSA 7 ).
Stephen
Deadman's Registry Sets
As a PC collector, I tend to pick up two of each card.....
Raw: Tony Gonzalez (low #'d cards, and especially 1/1's) and Steve Young.
With any level of skill you can safely remove the peel.
The good news is that the peel did exactly what it was supposed to and stopped the card from getting scratched and dirty so usually these refractors are really popping.
Usually removing the peel lends to higher grades for that reason but occasionally doing so will reveal a surface defect that was masked by the peel.
Prices for graded cards don't show any difference in value between identical issues (PSA 9 peeled vs. PSA 9 unpeeled for example)
Best remove the peel story I have is I got a perfectly centered sharp 1995 Griffey Jr. REF for $25 (usually in the 60-75 range, plus I believe someone is hording these) but it had what looked like a harsh refractor line across the card. Upon peeling the line was actually in the coating and the carded graded out PSA 10. Looks great and is one of my favorite cards.
I would vote for eliminating the peeled vs. unpeeled distinction largely because the marketplace does not place a premium on either.
saucywombat@hotmail.com
<< <i>I say peeled. I have sent cards to both BGS and PSA and had them come back at least 2 grades lower with the coating then when I peeled them, resent them without the peel. I no longer have it, but when Eddie George was popular, I sent in one to BGS with the peel and it came back a 6, when I peeled it and resent the same card on a later sub, it came back a 9..WHY?? Because it had surface scratches ON THE PEEL!!! Stupid >>
Most likely it was air bubble, not scratches...the same problem that plagued Select Certified Mirrors