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Coating vs. w/o coating

Since we address panel vs. cut and only allow one in master sets, depending on issue...can we not apply the same thinking in coating vs w/o coating for the late 90's Finest issues. I really have no interest in putting money into these cards as I don't care if it has the coating or not but the master sets keep showing both issues??

If they need to go one way or another....peel them all. That would be the stance when dealing with any other obstruction to the stats/card when dealing with "pop-up" type cards.

Do you think this is a Cosetta question?

Mike

Kirby Puckett Master Set

Comments

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    storm888storm888 Posts: 11,701 ✭✭✭

    I would never peel an undamaged, coated card.


    An unpeeled card can always be peeled.

    A peeled card can never be "unpeeled."








    Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
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    HallcoHallco Posts: 3,627 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I would never peel an undamaged, coated card.


    An unpeeled card can always be peeled.

    A peeled card can never be "unpeeled." >>



    Spoken like a true prodigy! image
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    digicatdigicat Posts: 8,551 ✭✭
    As a collector, I want my cards to look good. To me, the shiny chrome cards with the dull film on them detracts from the overall eye-appeal, plus the "REMOVE COATING" printed all over the film looks like crap.

    I always peel.

    However, for a registry set, both should be allowed as an "or" option. It's the same card.
    My Giants collection want list

    WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
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    CNoteCNote Posts: 2,070
    So you want to ask if one variation can be removed from the master sets of modern players?
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    I prefer w/o the coating but I do collect both. I don't think either should be removed from a players master set. With and without these coating is how they came from the factory. I think they should be documented such. Also for historical purposes. Who knows these mass produced cards might actually be worth something in 150 years from now.

    I say leave them as they came from the factory.



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    otwcardsotwcards Posts: 5,291 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I would never peel an undamaged, coated card.


    An unpeeled card can always be peeled.

    A peeled card can never be "unpeeled." >>



    . . . Your can unscrew a lightbulb . . .
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    dmatcdmatc Posts: 69 ✭✭
    As a collector of a player that has many cards with these removable coatings it is
    very frustrating to have to obtain 2 versions especially when some of these cards
    have very low print runs.

    I agree with digicat that there should only be one entry for a particular card in any
    registry set and either version should be acceptable. IMO the only exception to this would
    be when a card came straight from the factory in a protected and non-protected variation.

    Just FYI...The first time I submitted this card it had the coating...Cert #16842137 ( PSA 7 ).

    image

    Stephen
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity"

    Deadman's Registry Sets
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    Cards that only came with coating, should be and/or. The problem is some cards came both ways in the pack (and are a little different). PSA doesn't seem to label between the two, so I have no clue "what is best" as far as the registry goes.

    As a PC collector, I tend to pick up two of each card.....image
    Collecting PSA graded Steve Young, Marcus Allen, Bret Saberhagen and 1980s Topps Cards.
    Raw: Tony Gonzalez (low #'d cards, and especially 1/1's) and Steve Young.
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    saucywombatsaucywombat Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭
    I'm in the the "have the card looking the best crowd" so I always peel.

    With any level of skill you can safely remove the peel.

    The good news is that the peel did exactly what it was supposed to and stopped the card from getting scratched and dirty so usually these refractors are really popping.

    Usually removing the peel lends to higher grades for that reason but occasionally doing so will reveal a surface defect that was masked by the peel.

    Prices for graded cards don't show any difference in value between identical issues (PSA 9 peeled vs. PSA 9 unpeeled for example)

    Best remove the peel story I have is I got a perfectly centered sharp 1995 Griffey Jr. REF for $25 (usually in the 60-75 range, plus I believe someone is hording these) but it had what looked like a harsh refractor line across the card. Upon peeling the line was actually in the coating and the carded graded out PSA 10. Looks great and is one of my favorite cards.

    I would vote for eliminating the peeled vs. unpeeled distinction largely because the marketplace does not place a premium on either.

    image
    Always looking for 1993-1999 Baseball Finest Refractors and1994 Football Finest Refractors.
    saucywombat@hotmail.com
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    CNoteCNote Posts: 2,070
    As I see a couple Griffeys posted, I'm glad to say that when I retired my registry of him with 2000+ cards, I submitted well over 100 variations of peel/no peel just to grow the registry and make it more difficult for others to get the card. :-)
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    mtcardsmtcards Posts: 3,342 ✭✭✭
    I say peeled. I have sent cards to both BGS and PSA and had them come back at least 2 grades lower with the coating then when I peeled them, resent them without the peel. I no longer have it, but when Eddie George was popular, I sent in one to BGS with the peel and it came back a 6, when I peeled it and resent the same card on a later sub, it came back a 9..WHY?? Because it had surface scratches ON THE PEEL!!! Stupid
    IT IS ALWAYS CHEAPER TO NOT SELL ON EBAY
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    If it's cold outside I would go with coating.
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    vladguerrerovladguerrero Posts: 4,077 ✭✭✭
    i prefer em bagged, as mentioned you can always unpeel, grade them the way they came from the pack
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    CNoteCNote Posts: 2,070


    << <i>I say peeled. I have sent cards to both BGS and PSA and had them come back at least 2 grades lower with the coating then when I peeled them, resent them without the peel. I no longer have it, but when Eddie George was popular, I sent in one to BGS with the peel and it came back a 6, when I peeled it and resent the same card on a later sub, it came back a 9..WHY?? Because it had surface scratches ON THE PEEL!!! Stupid >>



    Most likely it was air bubble, not scratches...the same problem that plagued Select Certified Mirrors
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