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Proof Franklin Dilemma - Higher Grades or Better Contrast

Let's talk coins again.

Here's the dilemma. I currently have a complete proof Franklin set ranked number 7. Originally I had planned to upgrade to achieve a top five spot.

Many of the original pieces I bought were very premium quality in terms of the level of contrast whether CAM or DCAM. I was able to afford them because they were one step down from top five registry level. For example, I bought the 57 in 67DCAM instead of 68DCAM, or the 54 in 67CAM instead of 68CAM. The problem now is that potential upgrade pieces are not readily available which can improve the eye appeal of what I already have.

For example, a major proof dealer offered me a 57 in 68DCAM and agreed to take my 67DCAM in trade. However, upon seeing my piece, he said that the 68DCAM while maybe having one less hairline somewhere cannot approach the level of contrast of my piece. He advised me to keep what I had. Some story comparing my 56 in 68DCAM with an available piece in 69DCAM.

So, the question is do I keep my lower graded pieces with great contrast and eye appeal, or do I upgrade even thought the contrast may not be as good. Of course, one answer is to keep what I have and buy the new pieces in addition. However, as a practical matter I would need to do trade ins in order to buy the higher graded piece.

Thus the question. Higher grades with less contrast, or lower grades with better contrast and give up my top five aspirations.

Opinions.

Cheers

Greg S.

Comments

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    Greg,
    As you have said before: Buy the coin, not the plastic. I would rather have coins that please me than higher graded coins that have no eye appeal.

    Dennis
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    DHeathDHeath Posts: 8,472 ✭✭✭
    Greg,

    I think you're in a great situation. Upgrade if/when you find a coin you like better. It's hard to be patient, and our hobby is money driven, but great collections take time. I would never trade a PQ Dcam for a lesser coin of a higher grade. Registry ranking simply reflects someone elses opinion of your collection, and ultimately they own only an opinion while you own the coins. Trust your own judgement of the collection's beauty and symmetry. Frankly, there are some beautiful collections built from one off coins. To acquire the numerically finest coins, you must be willing to outspend every other expert in the hobby (some with almost unlimited resources) . I'd much rather underspend them and build a collection that I find compelling without paying 20X for a better holder.
    Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
    and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
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    TypetoneTypetone Posts: 1,622
    Don:

    The dilemma is really in comparing coins with designations. In my example, suppose the 57 in 68DCAM has one less hairline or so than the 67DCAM. So, it merits the higher grade. But suppose that the 68 is a DCAM- while the 67 is a DCAM+. What do you do then? Which characteristic wins out? I know its a value judgement, but what does everyone else think.

    Dennis:

    I've always said buy the coin and the plastic. image

    Greg
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    Here is where I would sacrifice a point. I think the deeeepest contrast really deserves more credit. There are boarder line cam/dcam coins just as there are boarder line 67/68 or especially 68/69. IMHO the deep contrast is worth way more than the lack of a hair line. Way more. That is where you can get a bargain. But you have to believe in it. If you have lots of DCAM coins the ones with DEEEEP contrast stand out. I think the ones with dcam+ contrast a point down are the bargains. Don't trade! Buy the point if you want but keep the deep contrast ones. Or sell them to me for no premium to regular dcam ones... (Naw, I'll pay a little premium image )

    When it comes down to it, you have to compare sets side by side. I think that if there are two or more sets that are at the top for a few years there should be a showing where everybody gets together to look at the sets coin by coin. Wouldn't that be neat? If I were arranging shows I'd try to get a Registry set show off.
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    BearBear Posts: 18,954 ✭✭
    Grading values can change over time and a grade oF 68 today can be a 67 tomorrow, but the beauty of a deep cameo+ is forever. Keep the beautiful coins untill you find a higher grade of greater beauty. I own the JAY ROSS PROOF KENNEDY COLLECTION AND I PASSED UP THE ONLY PR 70DC BECAUSE IT WAS NOT AS NICE AS MY SPECTACULAR PR-69 DC+. REGARDS BEAR
    There once was a place called
    Camelotimage
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    dbldie55dbldie55 Posts: 7,719 ✭✭✭✭✭
    What are you in the game for?



    Buy what you like, and like what you buy! Do not go out to please "us". In the end it is for you only.

    (Get rid of your Liberty Nickel set while you are at it)
    Collector and Researcher of Liberty Head Nickels. ANA LM-6053
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    The way I see it you only have 3 choices.

    1. Buy the coin (collector)

    2. Buy the holder (showoff)

    3. Buy the coin and a holder (rich collector who wants to showoff)

    I would buy the coin, then both if I had the money, But not the holder

    DAN

    United States Air Force Retired And Would Do It Again.

    My first tassa slap 3/3/04

    My shiny cents

    imageThe half I am getting rid of and me, forever and always Taken in about 1959
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    PTVETTERPTVETTER Posts: 5,882 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It sounds like that major dealer is trying to tell keep what you have untill you can get a coin with both a better grade and eye appeal. WAIT untill that time. image

    I understand about wanting to have a better position on the registry set rating, but DON'T forget its all about fun and enjoyment not some number.image

    I'm number 15 with my mercury dime set and happy to be with friendly people, rather than number one in some other set with back stabbers!!!

    Pat Vetter,Mercury Dime registry set,1938 Proof set registry,Pat & BJ Coins:724-325-7211


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    WingsruleWingsrule Posts: 2,983 ✭✭✭✭
    Greg,

    Go for the contrast (IMO). I have a 52 67 CAM that would pick me up two registry points, but for now, it's just sitting with the dupes.

    Mark
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    MoneyLAMoneyLA Posts: 1,825
    Well, here we go again, and being a veteran of this "decision making process" I feel very qualified to comment.

    The issue really boils down to-- do you want the grade on the plastic or the appeal of the coin.

    When I put my proof Washington set together (still ranked #1 of all time though it has been sold) I went for the high grade points (the pr70s) rather than dcam's with lower points (pr69dcam's) because the "points" were what I was collecting to go for the #1 set. Then, as we know, the registry standards changed and I found my pr70s were worth less than pr69dcams.

    Clearly, the market now has turned toward the dcam's with the highest possible grade. but you have come across higher point coins with lesser cameos.

    Given the current market, I would stick with the deeper and more appealing cameo contrast. I might even try submitting the coins for a regrade-- perhaps they will rise an extra point?

    cheers and best, alan mendelson
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    MonstavetMonstavet Posts: 1,235 ✭✭
    There are a couple of ways you can put together your set. One way is to go for the highest grade, not necesarily worrying about what it looks like. You might end up with some nicely contrasted coins, nie nicely toned coins, or even a brilliant proof, if all you are worried about it the proof grade. Another way to put the set together would be to go for a nicely matched set, vis a vis, all nicely toned, all brilliant proofs, all high contrast examples. You may not end up on the front page of the Registry, but you will have a very attractive set of matched proofs. In some ways, that is a superior accomplishment (IMHO) image
    Send Email or PM for free veterinary advice.
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    Hmmm, the ever pondering Typetone ...

    I think that this question is harder than it seems for the franklin series as I think you have to achieve a certain grade (at least a 67 to 68) to avoid some of the detractions of the coin and then go for the contrast (CAM, DCAM). It may sound like a "cop-out" answer but when I was very interested in the Franklin series, there was that line of demarkation at pf67 before the contrast (DCAM) mattered on the Franklins Iat least to me).
    My eBay Items

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    khaysekhayse Posts: 1,336
    Greg,

    I definitely say buy whichever you prefer.

    I would probably prefer the better grade when comparing
    a 65 to a 66 or a 66 to a 67 because of the large difference
    between grades at this level. When you get up to comparing
    a 68 to the 69 the difference is so small I would probably
    prefer the deeper contrast 68.

    Just me though,
    -KeithH
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    Greg, the only person that can answer your question is YOU! I've seen66's that had better eye appeal than some67's. I'm certain that the upgrade would of involved a major amount of money, even with the tradein.IMHO i would keep the coin with the best eye appeal (deepest cameo & cleanest fields), EVERY grading service admits that it is not a cut and dried science because of humans doing the grading. Try for an upgrade if the 67DCAM is that strong.
    BTW, my hats off to ANYONE who can make top 5 of the Franklins or any series for that matter!image

    Good luck with your decision.image

    dave
    Love those toned Washingtons
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    raycycaraycyca Posts: 1,621 ✭✭✭
    I agree with the rest- do what pleases YOU! Board members come and go, but you'll always have yourself to judge. Wait until PCGS comes out with the weighting, some dates may be worth significantly more in DCAM and there may be little point difference between a 67 and 68 DCAM, but a HUGE price difference. I've passed up some high grade Kennedy SMSs for the lower grade DCAMs and didn't lose any sleep. I feel better looking at my set instead of where I am on the Regisrty ranking. I have no aspirations on #1. As a last note, please tell us the name and address of your honest dealer, I know I could use one.
    You only live life once, enjoy it like it's your last day. It just MIGHT be!

    image
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    TypetoneTypetone Posts: 1,622
    Thanks for all the comments, and please keep them coming. Your perspectives are all interesting. The dealer in question was none other than Rick T of R&I.

    Cheers

    Greg S
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    Greg,

    My personal opinion is that I will not upgrade a coin in my set, unless the new piece has equal or better eye appeal than the piece being replaced. Won't upgrade a nice piece to a lessor one just to grab another point or two in my set because of a number printed above the coin.

    Keith
    Keith ™

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