<< <i>It just amazes me that you can say this over and over. The question isn't 'whether you can make a profit' on auctions. The question is whether you're MAXIMIZING profit. And the answer to this question is almost certainly 'no', for reasons that Storm, et al. have very patiently tried to lay out for you in previous threads that have explored this topic. >>
Boopotts its just i think that some people dont like to think outside the box or think there opinion is the only one that counts i have no issues with auctions as a BUYER lol but as a seller like you just nicely put it it JUST doesnt work with certin items specially ones that are massed produced/readily avaible LIKE CARDS, BOOKS, VIDEOS, ect certain items that are rare in those categories could and do work at auction but the thing is there not GAURANTEED TO get MAX PROFIT and again it all boils down to HOW MUCH PROFIT you want to make. like most of the posters that have posted for AUCTIONS have stated they have and will never USE BIN's unlike the posters for BIN's who have actually USED BOTH methods! i for one only use AUCTIONS for items that to me are not worth anything that will hopefully attract bidders into my store THAT IS THE ONLY way i use ebay auctions i use the AUCTIONS AS a "MARKETING TOOL" as someone keeps mentioning on this thread.
<< <i>On the advice of many here I have moved towards the 30 day BIN/BO listing. Do not even know for sure, but I think ebay charges less than a buck for this type of listing. While I understand the view offered by those who like to list things at 99 cents and let it fly, I began to find it frustrating when items would sell too low for my liking.
As another board member told me recently, for mere pennies one can have something on ebay for 30 days with no risk (the BIN/BO feature). If no acceptable offer is received then the cost to relist for another 30 days is--again--mere pennies, and so on. Basically, a seller can have an item for sale for a year--with absolutely no risk of losing the item too cheaply--for less than 10 bucks. It only makes sense to me.
Furthermore, it is absolutely startling to me how often I have sold items without the buyer even using the Bo feature; they just hit the BIN, often paying much much more than necessary. Not sure why, but I am not going to complain.
Eyebone >>
Exactly if you open an ebay store at $50 amonth you can list your items for .05 each per month this store is good if you have a large inventory or alot of collectibles your wanting to sell i would say for example you list 1000 items the total you owe ebay upfront is $100 say you have a lot of items $50-100 listed you just need to sell either 1 $100 item or 2 $50 items and you made your upfront ebay fees and since FVF is about 10% would bring that total to $110 (oh and paypal fees) then every sale after that is PROFIT and most likely a more LARGER PROFIT then you could get if you auction the items off.
Buy Sell And Trade at www.everythingcollectibles.biz
Admittedly, for me it comes down to a lack of patience. Like most here I have a full time job (and three kids at home) so my time on the internet is limited. My wife thinks I'm on there too much as it is. So when I list an item, I like that it will be sold in a few days and I can move on from there. I enjoy what I do in this little side venture of mine, and I think if I just had a bunch of cards sitting there with BINs, making an occasional sale now and then, my enjoyment and interest would decline significantly. To answer your other question, of that $634, maybe half was profit. There's no question that if I listed those 11 cards at BINs, I would have eventually earned more money on them. There's one in particular ('75 Munson PSA 9) that I know could've sold for more (maybe $125) via BIN. But that might not be till September and I don't feel like waiting till September. Perhaps if this was a full-time venture, I'f be more concerned with maximizing profit and have more patience for BIN.
<< <i>Admittedly, for me it comes down to a lack of patience. Like most here I have a full time job (and three kids at home) so my time on the internet is limited. My wife thinks I'm on there too much as it is. So when I list an item, I like that it will be sold in a few days and I can move on from there. I enjoy what I do in this little side venture of mine, and I think if I just had a bunch of cards sitting there with BINs, making an occasional sale now and then, my enjoyment and interest would decline significantly. To answer your other question, of that $634, maybe half was profit. There's no question that if I listed those 11 cards at BINs, I would have eventually earned more money on them. There's one in particular ('75 Munson PSA 9) that I know could've sold for more (maybe $125) via BIN. But that might not be till September and I don't feel like waiting till September. Perhaps if this was a full-time venture, I'f be more concerned with maximizing profit and have more patience for BIN. >>
Hey i to have 3 kids as well and a wife who also thinks im on here way to much lol. and yes as long as you enjoy what you do in this side venture we call the World wide web more power to you if auctions suit your purpose and they work for you thats great im not putting down auctions was just trying to show 2 sides and show that MOST Users on ebay are now seeing the Benefits from BIN over Auction. also your point about you not having much time to be online thats what i was trying to get at too about auction BIDS being way down like MOST people these days they dont have the time to be sitting in front of the computer screen like they did 2 or 3 years ago to snip the auction so they figure why put a bid on it all if there not going to win so they just watch (ive notice that too alot more watchers then buyers) and if they are around the computer when it should end they might put a bid on it. I personal cant see taking a chance like that and risking losing POTENTIAL MONEY from a person that doenst have time to bid it up at the very end id rather have him come online when he/she sees fit and Potentially Use the BUY IT NOW button on one of my items. we have to look at the whole picture there are alot of factors that affect an auctions closing price besides how you market and present it, factors BEYOUND the Sellers control.
you said it best when you said "Perhaps if this was a full-time venture, I'f be more concerned with maximizing profit and have more patience for BIN"
It all comes down to How much Profit you feel Comfortable Making on the item, when i look at that factor i take into consideration a few things incluidng how readily avaible that same item is to uptain again for a "GREAT PRICE" to make a profit on. If it is not readily avaible i most likey try to MAXIMIZE the profit and let is sit at a HIGH BIN if its readily avaible that i could pick up weekly if possible then i have no problem with quickly doubling my money. if its something that is listed week in and week out that you can quickly sell and pick up again and resell then yes maximizing profit is not much a concern (but then you have to consider how much work am i doing for that amount of profit if the profit doesnt match the work then in my opinion its not worth it) i learned this on early on as i was very okay with making a small profit on each item my sales would avarage $3 per item but would be selling 300+ items a month most of which id pick up for less then $1 then my mom mentioned to me i was selling things to cheap and working to much for little profit packaging 20 or so items aday sometimes (this was in the good days of ebay) oh and 95% of my sales were BIN the 5% auctions were just advertising to get buyers in my ebay store. so i started think why sell low and be packaging more when i could sell a bit higher yes i get less sales but im doing LESS WORK and Making the same amount i am if i sold low and packaged more and the more you add to your inventory the more chances you have of selling items daily as well as having a diverse mix of collectibles not just cards. thats another thing to be sussesful online you have to be diverse in what you offer because when one catagory is down in sales another is always picking up the slack
Buy Sell And Trade at www.everythingcollectibles.biz
I'm on team BIN. But it depends on knowing your market, knowing the true value and being objective about it. Then pricing accordingly. If the last rookie card of someone hot sold for $100 and there's only 3 auctions for it, I'd list a BIN of $110 - $120 dlvd, and probably would get it. If not, I don't mind the two dimes or a nickel to let it ride in the store for a couple of weeks.
If it's a Wade Boggs rookie that no one wants anymore, the BIN will reflect that and will be most likely slightly less than the previous sales to just move it out.
It's always fun, though, to win an auction and then add 35% to your cost and sell it as a BIN. Or buy raw, grade and sell for even more.
<< <i>Topic Reality Check.........
If you had a low pop (less then 5) PSA 10 of Joe Smuckatelly that you have 20.00 bucks into.
You list it a 2nd time at a 90.00 auction and best offer.
Would you accept an offer of 40.00?
or
Would you be one to offer 40.00?
theories and theo-ologies aside.
thanks for playing, again
goye >>
If you're talking strictly as a seller, I would not accept $40. I'd counter with $70-$75. Although, I would likely just list a BIN without a BO for the price I was willing to accept. Too many times the BO's are just way too low, no matter how hot the particular card/player is.
As a buyer, I'd offer $60 and hope(knowing my 2nd offer would be 65 or 80), but would expect a counter of $70-80
<< <i>I'm on team BIN. But it depends on knowing your market, knowing the true value and being objective about it. Then pricing accordingly. If the last rookie card of someone hot sold for $100 and there's only 3 auctions for it, I'd list a BIN of $110 - $120 dlvd, and probably would get it. If not, I don't mind the two dimes or a nickel to let it ride in the store for a couple of weeks.
If it's a Wade Boggs rookie that no one wants anymore, the BIN will reflect that and will be most likely slightly less than the previous sales to just move it out.
It's always fun, though, to win an auction and then add 35% to your cost and sell it as a BIN. Or buy raw, grade and sell for even more.
>>
I totally agree. As a seller you have to know the value of the item you're trying to sell as a BIN. If you know your market well, you'll move plenty of cards at BIN if you put up clear scans, price items fairly and accordingly, package well, and ship within a couple of days of payment. Using these principles you'll be successful. Having a decent inventory can't hurt either.
I only auction items of extremely high demand, low pop, rare, or on a rare occasion when I need to move some inventory.
I've sold on ebay for nearly 12 years. Pre 2005, I was all auction. Post 2005, I'm 95% BIN/ebay store.
On a side not, one problem with knowing your market concerning using VCP is, they don't report BIN's from ebay stores. Those prices are missing from VCP and are considerably more than normal auction results. So there's no doubt you can sell items for a reasonable amount over VCP in a ebay store/BIN format.
There's also opportunities to buy some great cards once in a while at auction because many use VCP as their bidding guide. That alone presents a sort of built in profit margin. Buying at auction, selling at BIN.
Also, I wouldn't say those buyers are desperate, as Hammered stated above, but rather those buyers don't have the time to follow/watch auctions end. They'd rather hit a reasonable BIN, pay, and get the cards they want in a few days from a reliable store/bin seller.
<< <i>Sellers who wanna give stuff away will continue to use auctions, until they have no more stuff to give away.
Buyers who wanna get the best steals are well seved by shopping auction listings. They only see 10% to 20% of available listings, but those listings can be had cheap.
I use EBAY to retail items. If I cannot get my high-price, I do not care if the item sells or not.
There is just as much work involved in losing money on EBAY as there is in making money on EBAY. I am not interested in working to lose money, thus, I am on team-BIN.
....................
Obviously, there are some items that are still safe to auction. I just don't sell those types of items; some folks do, tho. >>
Morning, And to those of you who want to still sell High priced items at Auction and start them at .99 cents I simply say THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!
You continue to feed my E-Bay side job. Last Four Hi Dollar items I have won are as follows:
1. Auction Started at .99 cents, did not sell at Resrve of $650-700...I was Hi Bidder at $598.00...Seller gives me second chance offer at $598...Bought it, put in E-Bay BIN at $1450.00...1 Hour later contacted, Sold off E-Bay..No Paypal $1300.00. 2. Auction started at .99 cents..(A Lot of Cards) Item 2 years ago retails about $400-500. I win for $101.00...Split up 5 items put in store at BIN..Have sold two in 2 weeks for $150.00 each. 3. Item starts at .99 cents..(A Large Lot of cards)...2 years ago Lot would bring $600-$800. I pick up for $162.50. Some will go to PSA, most in Store BIN at $10-$15 each...When all is said and done should bring $800-$1200. 4. Auction starts at .99 cents..(Large Lot Hi Grade Pre War Stuff 46 Cards)......Two years ago I saw similar lots go for $1000-$1500. I win for $227.00. Send 30 cards to PSA am into the Lot for about $400. Have sold 6 cards Store BIN, so far am up to $800 and when all is said and done should see about 3K.
So Once again Please Please Please continue to List your Hi Dollar items at Auction with that great .99 cent starting price!!!!!!
YeeHah
Neil
Actually Collect Non Sport, but am just so full of myself I post all over the place !!!!!!!
Congrats Neil!!! You have helped reaffirm my belief that auctions are NOT they way to go. I do have to ask you though - Do you strictly do BIN or do you sometimes do auctions as well?
Morning, I always try and have 20-50 low dollar auctions going to drive some customers into my store. Usually .99 start stuff, some $9.99, but always stuff I am willing to give away to fish for bigger Sales. I almost exclusivly BIN anything that I want more than $20 for nowdays.
Neil
Actually Collect Non Sport, but am just so full of myself I post all over the place !!!!!!!
Can't tell you how many times I've seen items sit forever at a high BIN, the BIN is pulled, or another similar item is auctioned and that item finishes at a higher price than the BIN. It's happened to me personally. It works both ways. So please feel free to bid on my auctions anytime. Help drive my prices up, I'd appreciate it.
I'd also question what "high-dollar items" you're picking up at very low prices on auction. Are they obscure non-sport items, or the like? If so, and if there are say, only two buyers for it, then obviously you put it on a BIN and hope one of them catches it eventually.
If it is a mainstream item that has decent registry (or other) competition, I will do better at auction almost every time. AND it will sell quickly.
<< <i>At this very moment, the sellers of almost 90% of PSA-cards listed have decided that NO auction strategy/tactic is worth the risk.
PSA Cards Listed:
Total 192,052
Auctions 21,439
BINs 170, 841 >>
I think PSA card listings is a bad example. The reason you have so few auction listings for PSA is that there is just such low demand for high-pop mid-level cards. If you list a modern PSA 7 starting at .99 you just aren't going to get enough interest to have people compete over it.
<< <i>At this very moment, the sellers of almost 90% of PSA-cards listed have decided that NO auction strategy/tactic is worth the risk.
PSA Cards Listed:
Total 192,052
Auctions 21,439
BINs 170, 841 >>
I think PSA card listings is a bad example. The reason you have so few auction listings for PSA is that there is just such low demand for high-pop mid-level cards. If you list a modern PSA 7 starting at .99 you just aren't going to get enough interest to have people compete over it. >>
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I have no clue what a "good example" would really be.
Game Used Memorabilia:
Auctions: 3,560
BINs: 23,252
...............
Movie Memorabilia:
Auctions: 34,224
BINs: 938,977
...........................
All Baseball Cards / Raw and Graded:
Auctions: 147,773
BINs: 1,793,376
.........................................
Comics:
Auctions: 78,176
BINs: 1,627,514
.........................................
Decorative Collectibles:
Auctions: 108,367
BINs: 766,952
(Categories that require some "price discovery" will always skew higher in auction counts.)
.................................................
Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
<< <i>I like the BIN's because I do not have to put up with all the excuses of why it takes so long to get paid. >>
///////////////////////////////////
Very true.
Instant Payment Required removes the payment hassles.
The absence of IPR also refutes - in part - the notion that auctions allow sellers to "ship stuff all at once." You cannot ship until you get paid, no matter which listing format is used.
...........
IF a shopping cart is employed that will load auctions and BINs, both formats would benefit.
IF auto-pay is employed, both formats would benefit to at least some degree. (Not everybody will opt-in to that, if it is voluntary.)
I support both features, but the incentive for EBAY to extend any new features to auction-listings is FAST vanishing; along with auctions.
..............
Gotta remember: AMZN is the competition. If AMZN ignores auctions, EBAY will take the auction money, BUT EBAY has to push BINs in order to compete with their "identified" opponent.
BOTH gangs have decided that MOST retail shoppers do NOT wanna play the auction game.
.........................
In traffic terms, the least affected categories in the BIN vs. Auction "contest" are collectibles.
Resellers and many collectors will always prefer buying via auction listings. While those groups are TINY, compared to the retail-buyer population, there is NO reason to think that EBAY will abandon the auction format; it will become less and less relevant to the seller-population, but the format will likely ALWAYS be in the mix.
..............
Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
If it is a mainstream item that has decent registry (or other) competition, I will do better at auction almost every time. AND it will sell quickly. >>
This is absolutely untrue, and can be proven by looking through sales results on VCP and comparing the mean prices realized through auctions and BIN for virtually any card you choose.
First card I checked was 75 Brett Last auction got $666 Last BIN took a best offer of $505
Edited to say checking VCP on sales of high dollar, low pop, star or rookie cards, it's really telling how few sellers even use BIN. Vast majority of these cards have been sold using auctions. Not unusual to see only one of the last 20 sales BIN.
<< <i>First card I checked was 75 Brett Last auction got $666 Last BIN took a best offer of $505
Edited to say checking VCP on sales of high dollar, low pop, star or rookie cards, it's really telling how few sellers even use BIN. Vast majority of these cards have been sold using auctions. Not unusual to see only one of the last 20 sales BIN. >>
This isn't a point that I'm especially keen on debating, since I know that nobody's mind is going to change. But I will add the following:
1) There is a difference between 'mean' price and 'last' price. Also, the $505 had a crappy scan from an infrequent seller, while the $666 was sold by Steve Hart. Obviously all debates of this type have to include the qualifier that 'all other factors be equal', which clearly isn't the case in the example you've cited.
2) Just about every law of market dynamics would suggest that BINs will, on average, outsell auctions. Before someone puts in a proxy for 'X+1', they should check the BIN's to see if the same card is available for 'X'. While not everyone will do this, enough people will such that the auction price should not, over an appreciable sample size, exceed the BIN price.
3) There's a reason why the people who do this for a living deal almost exclusively in BIN's, and it's because (as I've stated in earlier threads) for someone to profit in the sports card resale industry they must sell for > than market value, because the market value is set in part by sellers whose participation in the market is not driven by a need to realize profit. Since auctions should, in theory, hammer at somewhere close to market value, selling through auctions makes little sense to sellers who ARE driven by a profit motive.
Card doctors will sell through auctions because they're frequently selling low pops, and for cards with no established market value auctions will generally be as profitable as BINs, since the guy who's buying the card will at least have the consolation of knowing that there was another fool willing to pay almost as much as the high bidder. In fact, I would go even farther and submit that you can get a very, very good idea of whose doing after-market alterations on their pre-1979 cards simply by seeing who sells a significant number of recently graded, extremely high grade (9's and 10's), low population cards from 1979 and earlier. And by 'significant number' I don't mean 1000's a month- I mean a few dozen a month, and maybe even less.
BIN's seem to work as long as the price is reasonable. For vintage high dollar cards, they will sell if you can afford to wait 6-12 months to sell your items.
<< <i>First card I checked was 75 Brett Last auction got $666 Last BIN took a best offer of $505
Edited to say checking VCP on sales of high dollar, low pop, star or rookie cards, it's really telling how few sellers even use BIN. Vast majority of these cards have been sold using auctions. Not unusual to see only one of the last 20 sales BIN. >>
This isn't a point that I'm especially keen on debating, since I know that nobody's mind is going to change. But I will add the following:
1) There is a difference between 'mean' price and 'last' price. Also, the $505 had a crappy scan from an infrequent seller, while the $666 was sold by Steve Hart. Obviously all debates of this type have to include the qualifier that 'all other factors be equal', which clearly isn't the case in the example you've cited.
2) Just about every law of market dynamics would suggest that BINs will, on average, outsell auctions. Before someone puts in a proxy for 'X+1', they should check the BIN's to see if the same card is available for 'X'. While not everyone will do this, enough people will such that the auction price should not, over an appreciable sample size, exceed the BIN price.
3) There's a reason why the people who do this for a living deal almost exclusively in BIN's, and it's because (as I've stated in earlier threads) for someone to profit in the sports card resale industry they must sell for > than market value, because the market value is set in part by sellers whose participation in the market is not driven by a need to realize profit. Since auctions should, in theory, hammer at somewhere close to market value, selling through auctions makes little sense to sellers who ARE driven by a profit motive.
Card doctors will sell through auctions because they're frequently selling low pops, and for cards with no established market value auctions will generally be as profitable as BINs, since the guy who's buying the card will at least have the consolation of knowing that there was another fool willing to pay almost as much as the high bidder. In fact, I would go even farther and submit that you can get a very, very good idea of whose doing after-market alterations on their pre-1979 cards simply by seeing who sells a significant number of recently graded, extremely high grade (9's and 10's), low population cards from 1979 and earlier. And by 'significant number' I don't mean 1000's a month- I mean a few dozen a month, and maybe even less. >>
I agree those two auctions probably weren't equal. Still, over the last two years, every single card that I checked that has any sort of value pre-1979 has been mostly sold on auction, by many different types of sellers big and small, it looks like. And on almost every card I checked, the highest recorded price was one that sold on auction.
"...Still, over the last two years, every single card that I checked that has any sort of value pre-1979 has been mostly sold on auction, by many different types of sellers big and small, it looks like. And on almost every card I checked, the highest recorded price was one that sold on auction...."
//////////////////////////////////////////////
Has VCP always included BIN and store prices?
Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
<< <i>"...Still, over the last two years, every single card that I checked that has any sort of value pre-1979 has been mostly sold on auction, by many different types of sellers big and small, it looks like. And on almost every card I checked, the highest recorded price was one that sold on auction...."
//////////////////////////////////////////////
Has VCP always included BIN and store prices? >>
+
no, they have been including BIN for I"d guess a year now. ebay stores were never included in VCP.
now that ebay stores have moved to core and VCP tracks BIN lisings we'll see VCP average go up on most cards.
<< <i>BOTH gangs have decided that MOST retail shoppers do NOT wanna play the auction game >>
Exactly! They want to Buy IT Now because we are now in a Got to have it now world and auctions just dont satisfy that craving auctions do satisfy the craving for buyers looking to get it at the lowest price possible. thats why amazon got out of the AUCTON Game and with my experience selling on both EBAY and AMAZON the thing that seperates the 2 and in my opinion is putting AMAZON on top in the PROFIT game is that Ebay USERS come there to many things check prices (use a 24/7 price guide), BID, Watch, and BUY were as AMAZON users Go there to do Mainly One thing and that is BUY
Buy Sell And Trade at www.everythingcollectibles.biz
<< <i>Morning, And to those of you who want to still sell High priced items at Auction and start them at .99 cents I simply say THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!
You continue to feed my E-Bay side job. Last Four Hi Dollar items I have won are as follows:
1. Auction Started at .99 cents, did not sell at Resrve of $650-700...I was Hi Bidder at $598.00...Seller gives me second chance offer at $598...Bought it, put in E-Bay BIN at $1450.00...1 Hour later contacted, Sold off E-Bay..No Paypal $1300.00. 2. Auction started at .99 cents..(A Lot of Cards) Item 2 years ago retails about $400-500. I win for $101.00...Split up 5 items put in store at BIN..Have sold two in 2 weeks for $150.00 each. 3. Item starts at .99 cents..(A Large Lot of cards)...2 years ago Lot would bring $600-$800. I pick up for $162.50. Some will go to PSA, most in Store BIN at $10-$15 each...When all is said and done should bring $800-$1200. 4. Auction starts at .99 cents..(Large Lot Hi Grade Pre War Stuff 46 Cards)......Two years ago I saw similar lots go for $1000-$1500. I win for $227.00. Send 30 cards to PSA am into the Lot for about $400. Have sold 6 cards Store BIN, so far am up to $800 and when all is said and done should see about 3K.
So Once again Please Please Please continue to List your Hi Dollar items at Auction with that great .99 cent starting price!!!!!! >>
Exactly Neil!
I like how your getting at the prices these things brough 2 or 3 years ago THE ONLY REASONS there down at auction is NOT BECAUSE OF there WORTH OR VALUE TO PEOPLE it what i have been pointing out in this whole thread PEOPLE JUST DONT HAVE THE TIME TO SIT and wait for an auction to end to bid on it and economy BUT as you nicely point out THERE ARE PEOPLE WITH MONEY OUT THERE THAT are willing to spend it IF YOU PUT THE PRODUCT OUT THERE FOR THEM TO BUY
I do the same thing You and i dont just do Cards IM in all catagories of Collectibles Buy low at auction and Sell high at BIN alot of times ill buy low at auction and list it over on AMAZON an have it sold with in a week and like you have pointed it MAXAMIZE the profit just post it up and let it fly
I think a lot of People who are for auctions that have comment on this topic are looking to make a QUICK buck/sale (with in a week or less) and move there inventory and not looking to MAXing there Profit and hang on to there items for a bit to do that.
and again there are collectors/buyers that dont COME ONLINE EVERY DAY even EVeryweek or month sometimes the check online every few months and thoese are the ones that USUALLY have the money and are willing to spend it
so yes same here.. everyone that uses auctions at .99 please do so We BIN Sellers Use your Listings WISELY i have to say i get about 75% of my inventory from EBAY AUCTIONS
just to show people how BINS heavly out do AUCTIONS
<< <i>4. Auction starts at .99 cents..(Large Lot Hi Grade Pre War Stuff 46 Cards)......Two years ago I saw similar lots go for $1000-$1500. I win for $227.00. Send 30 cards to PSA am into the Lot for about $400. Have sold 6 cards Store BIN, so far am up to $800 and when all is said and done should see about 3K. >>
you paid about $5 per card, you have already sold 6 cards at STORE BIN for $800 so you total profit after your initial $5 investment is $128 PER CARD!! now i HIGHLY DOUBT the person that auction that lot MADE A PROFIT ANYWHERE NEAR THAT
Buy Sell And Trade at www.everythingcollectibles.biz
<< <i>BOTH gangs have decided that MOST retail shoppers do NOT wanna play the auction game >>
Exactly! They want to Buy IT Now because we are now in a Got to have it now world and auctions just dont satisfy that craving auctions do satisfy the craving for buyers looking to get it at the lowest price possible. thats why amazon got out of the AUCTON Game and with my experience selling on both EBAY and AMAZON the thing that seperates the 2 and in my opinion is putting AMAZON on top in the PROFIT game is that Ebay USERS come there to many things check prices (use a 24/7 price guide), BID, Watch, and BUY were as AMAZON users Go there to do Mainly One thing and that is BUY >>
Take a breath and try some punctuation . . .
BTW, seems you've lost a lot of posts for violating the rules. Can't say I didn't warn ya!
<< <i>Resellers and many collectors will always prefer buying via auction listings. While those groups are TINY, compared to the retail-buyer population, there is NO reason to think that EBAY will abandon the auction format; it will become less and less relevant to the seller-population, but the format will likely ALWAYS be in the mix. >>
And thats why Ebay is now giving away 100 auctions per month to every ebay user as long as its under .99 and there not doing this because they love us there doing it to PAD there stats just think if they werent giving away these 100 auctions a month to each ebay user those #'s storm888 put up would be WAY DOWN! they need to show there STOCK People that the auctions are still there they need to show them that WHAT MADE EBAY its name is still alive and well!! and ebay can keep doing that with free auctions at .99 or less there helping me out a ton with inventory and from responces on here i would say the same thing for other sellers
Buy Sell And Trade at www.everythingcollectibles.biz
What do you do if you have a lot of one card, which generally sells for 35-50 for 8s and 70-120 for 9s – do you dump ‘em at .99 starting auctions, or put ‘em at BINs until you have sold the 30+ that you have? Would you hold onto some and wait for ineterst to pick up (Gretzky stickers)?
<< <i>What do you do if you have a lot of one card, which generally sells for 35-50 for 8s and 70-120 for 9s – do you dump ‘em at .99 starting auctions, or put ‘em at BINs until you have sold the 30+ that you have? Would you hold onto some and wait for ineterst to pick up (Gretzky stickers)? >>
again it all depends on how fast you want to move your inventory and how much you want to PROFIT on it. when you start selling you have to have an idea of what kind of profit you want to make on your items say 25% of your initial investment, 50% of your initial investment?? (for fast sales) i was told when i first start selling that if your making 100% of your initial investment your doing good so thats what i stick to. when you say "generally sells" your talking closed auctions? if so i would put one at BIN for $100 even if its an 8 add best offer and set that at to maybe $70-75 for your threshold (lost you will accept) im sure someone would come along and it the BIN
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Comments
<< <i>It just amazes me that you can say this over and over. The question isn't 'whether you can make a profit' on auctions. The question is whether you're MAXIMIZING profit. And the answer to this question is almost certainly 'no', for reasons that Storm, et al. have very patiently tried to lay out for you in previous threads that have explored this topic. >>
Boopotts its just i think that some people dont like to think outside the box or think there opinion is the only one that counts i have no issues with auctions as a BUYER lol but as a seller like you just nicely put it it JUST doesnt work with certin items specially ones that are massed produced/readily avaible LIKE CARDS, BOOKS, VIDEOS, ect certain items that are rare in those categories could and do work at auction but the thing is there not GAURANTEED TO get MAX PROFIT and again it all boils down to HOW MUCH PROFIT you want to make. like most of the posters that have posted for AUCTIONS have stated they have and will never USE BIN's unlike the posters for BIN's who have actually USED BOTH methods! i for one only use AUCTIONS for items that to me are not worth anything that will hopefully attract bidders into my store THAT IS THE ONLY way i use ebay auctions i use the AUCTIONS AS a "MARKETING TOOL" as someone keeps mentioning on this thread.
<< <i>On the advice of many here I have moved towards the 30 day BIN/BO listing. Do not even know for sure, but I think ebay charges less than a buck for this type of listing. While I understand the view offered by those who like to list things at 99 cents and let it fly, I began to find it frustrating when items would sell too low for my liking.
As another board member told me recently, for mere pennies one can have something on ebay for 30 days with no risk (the BIN/BO feature). If no acceptable offer is received then the cost to relist for another 30 days is--again--mere pennies, and so on. Basically, a seller can have an item for sale for a year--with absolutely no risk of losing the item too cheaply--for less than 10 bucks. It only makes sense to me.
Furthermore, it is absolutely startling to me how often I have sold items without the buyer even using the Bo feature; they just hit the BIN, often paying much much more than necessary. Not sure why, but I am not going to complain.
Eyebone
>>
Exactly if you open an ebay store at $50 amonth you can list your items for .05 each per month this store is good if you have a large inventory or alot of collectibles your wanting to sell i would say for example you list 1000 items the total you owe ebay upfront is $100 say you have a lot of items $50-100 listed you just need to sell either 1 $100 item or 2 $50 items and you made your upfront ebay fees and since FVF is about 10% would bring that total to $110 (oh and paypal fees) then every sale after that is PROFIT and most likely a more LARGER PROFIT then you could get if you auction the items off.
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To answer your other question, of that $634, maybe half was profit. There's no question that if I listed those 11 cards at BINs, I would have eventually earned more money on them. There's one in particular ('75 Munson PSA 9) that I know could've sold for more (maybe $125) via BIN. But that might not be till September and I don't feel like waiting till September.
Perhaps if this was a full-time venture, I'f be more concerned with maximizing profit and have more patience for BIN.
<< <i>Admittedly, for me it comes down to a lack of patience. Like most here I have a full time job (and three kids at home) so my time on the internet is limited. My wife thinks I'm on there too much as it is. So when I list an item, I like that it will be sold in a few days and I can move on from there. I enjoy what I do in this little side venture of mine, and I think if I just had a bunch of cards sitting there with BINs, making an occasional sale now and then, my enjoyment and interest would decline significantly.
To answer your other question, of that $634, maybe half was profit. There's no question that if I listed those 11 cards at BINs, I would have eventually earned more money on them. There's one in particular ('75 Munson PSA 9) that I know could've sold for more (maybe $125) via BIN. But that might not be till September and I don't feel like waiting till September.
Perhaps if this was a full-time venture, I'f be more concerned with maximizing profit and have more patience for BIN. >>
Hey i to have 3 kids as well and a wife who also thinks im on here way to much lol. and yes as long as you enjoy what you do in this side venture we call the World wide web more power to you if auctions suit your purpose and they work for you thats great im not putting down auctions was just trying to show 2 sides and show that MOST Users on ebay are now seeing the Benefits from BIN over Auction. also your point about you not having much time to be online thats what i was trying to get at too about auction BIDS being way down like MOST people these days they dont have the time to be sitting in front of the computer screen like they did 2 or 3 years ago to snip the auction so they figure why put a bid on it all if there not going to win so they just watch (ive notice that too alot more watchers then buyers) and if they are around the computer when it should end they might put a bid on it. I personal cant see taking a chance like that and risking losing POTENTIAL MONEY from a person that doenst have time to bid it up at the very end id rather have him come online when he/she sees fit and Potentially Use the BUY IT NOW button on one of my items. we have to look at the whole picture there are alot of factors that affect an auctions closing price besides how you market and present it, factors BEYOUND the Sellers control.
you said it best when you said "Perhaps if this was a full-time venture, I'f be more concerned with maximizing profit and have more patience for BIN"
It all comes down to How much Profit you feel Comfortable Making on the item, when i look at that factor i take into consideration a few things incluidng how readily avaible that same item is to uptain again for a "GREAT PRICE" to make a profit on. If it is not readily avaible i most likey try to MAXIMIZE the profit and let is sit at a HIGH BIN if its readily avaible that i could pick up weekly if possible then i have no problem with quickly doubling my money. if its something that is listed week in and week out that you can quickly sell and pick up again and resell then yes maximizing profit is not much a concern (but then you have to consider how much work am i doing for that amount of profit if the profit doesnt match the work then in my opinion its not worth it) i learned this on early on as i was very okay with making a small profit on each item my sales would avarage $3 per item but would be selling 300+ items a month most of which id pick up for less then $1 then my mom mentioned to me i was selling things to cheap and working to much for little profit packaging 20 or so items aday sometimes (this was in the good days of ebay) oh and 95% of my sales were BIN the 5% auctions were just advertising to get buyers in my ebay store. so i started think why sell low and be packaging more when i could sell a bit higher yes i get less sales but im doing LESS WORK and Making the same amount i am if i sold low and packaged more and the more you add to your inventory the more chances you have of selling items daily as well as having a diverse mix of collectibles not just cards. thats another thing to be sussesful online you have to be diverse in what you offer because when one catagory is down in sales another is always picking up the slack
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If it's a Wade Boggs rookie that no one wants anymore, the BIN will reflect that and will be most likely slightly less than the previous sales to just move it out.
It's always fun, though, to win an auction and then add 35% to your cost and sell it as a BIN. Or buy raw, grade and sell for even more.
<< <i>Topic Reality Check.........
If you had a low pop (less then 5) PSA 10 of Joe Smuckatelly that you have 20.00 bucks into.
You list it a 2nd time at a 90.00 auction and best offer.
Would you accept an offer of 40.00?
or
Would you be one to offer 40.00?
theories and theo-ologies aside.
thanks for playing, again
goye >>
If you're talking strictly as a seller, I would not accept $40. I'd counter with $70-$75. Although, I would likely just list a BIN without a BO for the price I was willing to accept. Too many times the BO's are just way too low, no matter how hot the particular card/player is.
As a buyer, I'd offer $60 and hope(knowing my 2nd offer would be 65 or 80), but would expect a counter of $70-80
<< <i>I'm on team BIN. But it depends on knowing your market, knowing the true value and being objective about it. Then pricing accordingly. If the last rookie card of someone hot sold for $100 and there's only 3 auctions for it, I'd list a BIN of $110 - $120 dlvd, and probably would get it. If not, I don't mind the two dimes or a nickel to let it ride in the store for a couple of weeks.
If it's a Wade Boggs rookie that no one wants anymore, the BIN will reflect that and will be most likely slightly less than the previous sales to just move it out.
It's always fun, though, to win an auction and then add 35% to your cost and sell it as a BIN. Or buy raw, grade and sell for even more.
>>
I totally agree. As a seller you have to know the value of the item you're trying to sell as a BIN. If you know your market well, you'll move plenty of cards at BIN if you put up clear scans, price items fairly and accordingly, package well, and ship within a couple of days of payment. Using these principles you'll be successful. Having a decent inventory can't hurt either.
I only auction items of extremely high demand, low pop, rare, or on a rare occasion when I need to move some inventory.
I've sold on ebay for nearly 12 years. Pre 2005, I was all auction. Post 2005, I'm 95% BIN/ebay store.
On a side not, one problem with knowing your market concerning using VCP is, they don't report BIN's from ebay stores. Those prices are missing from VCP and are considerably more than normal auction results. So there's no doubt you can sell items for a reasonable amount over VCP in a ebay store/BIN format.
There's also opportunities to buy some great cards once in a while at auction because many use VCP as their bidding guide. That alone presents a sort of built in profit margin. Buying at auction, selling at BIN.
Also, I wouldn't say those buyers are desperate, as Hammered stated above, but rather those buyers don't have the time to follow/watch auctions end. They'd rather hit a reasonable BIN, pay, and get the cards they want in a few days from a reliable store/bin seller.
<< <i>Sellers who wanna give stuff away will continue to use
auctions, until they have no more stuff to give away.
Buyers who wanna get the best steals are well seved
by shopping auction listings. They only see 10% to 20%
of available listings, but those listings can be had cheap.
I use EBAY to retail items. If I cannot get my high-price,
I do not care if the item sells or not.
There is just as much work involved in losing money on
EBAY as there is in making money on EBAY. I am not
interested in working to lose money, thus, I am on team-BIN.
....................
Obviously, there are some items that are still safe to auction.
I just don't sell those types of items; some folks do, tho. >>
Morning,
And to those of you who want to still sell High priced items at Auction and start them at .99 cents I simply say THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!
You continue to feed my E-Bay side job. Last Four Hi Dollar items I have won are as follows:
1. Auction Started at .99 cents, did not sell at Resrve of $650-700...I was Hi Bidder at $598.00...Seller gives me second chance offer at $598...Bought it, put in E-Bay BIN at $1450.00...1 Hour later contacted, Sold off E-Bay..No Paypal $1300.00.
2. Auction started at .99 cents..(A Lot of Cards) Item 2 years ago retails about $400-500. I win for $101.00...Split up 5 items put in store at BIN..Have sold two in 2 weeks for $150.00 each.
3. Item starts at .99 cents..(A Large Lot of cards)...2 years ago Lot would bring $600-$800. I pick up for $162.50. Some will go to PSA, most in Store BIN at $10-$15 each...When all is said and done should bring $800-$1200.
4. Auction starts at .99 cents..(Large Lot Hi Grade Pre War Stuff 46 Cards)......Two years ago I saw similar lots go for $1000-$1500. I win for $227.00. Send 30 cards to PSA am into the Lot for about $400. Have sold 6 cards Store BIN, so far am up to $800 and when all is said and done should see about 3K.
So Once again Please Please Please continue to List your Hi Dollar items at Auction with that great .99 cent starting price!!!!!!
YeeHah
Neil
I always try and have 20-50 low dollar auctions going to drive some customers into my store. Usually .99 start stuff, some $9.99, but always stuff I am willing to give away to fish for bigger Sales. I almost exclusivly BIN anything that I want more than $20 for nowdays.
Neil
Can't tell you how many times I've seen items sit forever at a high BIN, the BIN is pulled, or another similar item is auctioned and that item finishes at a higher price than the BIN. It's happened to me personally.
It works both ways.
So please feel free to bid on my auctions anytime. Help drive my prices up, I'd appreciate it.
I'd also question what "high-dollar items" you're picking up at very low prices on auction. Are they obscure non-sport items, or the like? If so, and if there are say, only two buyers for it, then obviously you put it on a BIN and hope one of them catches it eventually.
If it is a mainstream item that has decent registry (or other) competition, I will do better at auction almost every time. AND it will sell quickly.
Also, lol @ $600 being a high end item.
This is all. Carry on with your BIN successes and I'll carry on with my auction successes.
<< <i>At this very moment, the sellers of almost 90% of PSA-cards listed have
decided that NO auction strategy/tactic is worth the risk.
PSA Cards Listed:
Total 192,052
Auctions 21,439
BINs 170, 841 >>
I think PSA card listings is a bad example. The reason you have so few auction listings for PSA is that there is just such low demand for high-pop mid-level cards. If you list a modern PSA 7 starting at .99 you just aren't going to get enough interest to have people compete over it.
<< <i>
<< <i>At this very moment, the sellers of almost 90% of PSA-cards listed have
decided that NO auction strategy/tactic is worth the risk.
PSA Cards Listed:
Total 192,052
Auctions 21,439
BINs 170, 841 >>
I think PSA card listings is a bad example. The reason you have so few auction listings for PSA is that there is just such low demand for high-pop mid-level cards. If you list a modern PSA 7 starting at .99 you just aren't going to get enough interest to have people compete over it. >>
//////////////////////////////////////////
I have no clue what a "good example" would really be.
Game Used Memorabilia:
Auctions: 3,560
BINs: 23,252
...............
Movie Memorabilia:
Auctions: 34,224
BINs: 938,977
...........................
All Baseball Cards / Raw and Graded:
Auctions: 147,773
BINs: 1,793,376
.........................................
Comics:
Auctions: 78,176
BINs: 1,627,514
.........................................
Decorative Collectibles:
Auctions: 108,367
BINs: 766,952
(Categories that require some "price discovery" will always
skew higher in auction counts.)
.................................................
<< <i>I like the BIN's because I do not have to put up with all the excuses of why it takes so long to get paid. >>
///////////////////////////////////
Very true.
Instant Payment Required removes the payment hassles.
The absence of IPR also refutes - in part - the notion that
auctions allow sellers to "ship stuff all at once." You cannot
ship until you get paid, no matter which listing format is used.
...........
IF a shopping cart is employed that will load auctions and BINs,
both formats would benefit.
IF auto-pay is employed, both formats would benefit to at least
some degree. (Not everybody will opt-in to that, if it is voluntary.)
I support both features, but the incentive for EBAY to extend any
new features to auction-listings is FAST vanishing; along with auctions.
..............
Gotta remember: AMZN is the competition. If AMZN ignores auctions,
EBAY will take the auction money, BUT EBAY has to push BINs in order
to compete with their "identified" opponent.
BOTH gangs have decided that MOST retail shoppers do NOT wanna play
the auction game.
.........................
In traffic terms, the least affected categories in the BIN vs. Auction "contest"
are collectibles.
Resellers and many collectors will always prefer buying via auction listings.
While those groups are TINY, compared to the retail-buyer population, there
is NO reason to think that EBAY will abandon the auction format; it will become
less and less relevant to the seller-population, but the format will likely ALWAYS
be in the mix.
..............
I am now watching and amused. Carry on.
<< <i>With BINs costing $6/year...why not do the BIN game? >>
And only $2.40 a year if you have an eBay store.
<< <i>Neil
If it is a mainstream item that has decent registry (or other) competition, I will do better at auction almost every time. AND it will sell quickly. >>
This is absolutely untrue, and can be proven by looking through sales results on VCP and comparing the mean prices realized through auctions and BIN for virtually any card you choose.
Last auction got $666
Last BIN took a best offer of $505
Edited to say checking VCP on sales of high dollar, low pop, star or rookie cards, it's really telling how few sellers even use BIN. Vast majority of these cards have been sold using auctions. Not unusual to see only one of the last 20 sales BIN.
<< <i>First card I checked was 75 Brett
Last auction got $666
Last BIN took a best offer of $505
Edited to say checking VCP on sales of high dollar, low pop, star or rookie cards, it's really telling how few sellers even use BIN. Vast majority of these cards have been sold using auctions. Not unusual to see only one of the last 20 sales BIN. >>
This isn't a point that I'm especially keen on debating, since I know that nobody's mind is going to change. But I will add the following:
1) There is a difference between 'mean' price and 'last' price. Also, the $505 had a crappy scan from an infrequent seller, while the $666 was sold by Steve Hart. Obviously all debates of this type have to include the qualifier that 'all other factors be equal', which clearly isn't the case in the example you've cited.
2) Just about every law of market dynamics would suggest that BINs will, on average, outsell auctions. Before someone puts in a proxy for 'X+1', they should check the BIN's to see if the same card is available for 'X'. While not everyone will do this, enough people will such that the auction price should not, over an appreciable sample size, exceed the BIN price.
3) There's a reason why the people who do this for a living deal almost exclusively in BIN's, and it's because (as I've stated in earlier threads) for someone to profit in the sports card resale industry they must sell for > than market value, because the market value is set in part by sellers whose participation in the market is not driven by a need to realize profit. Since auctions should, in theory, hammer at somewhere close to market value, selling through auctions makes little sense to sellers who ARE driven by a profit motive.
Card doctors will sell through auctions because they're frequently selling low pops, and for cards with no established market value auctions will generally be as profitable as BINs, since the guy who's buying the card will at least have the consolation of knowing that there was another fool willing to pay almost as much as the high bidder. In fact, I would go even farther and submit that you can get a very, very good idea of whose doing after-market alterations on their pre-1979 cards simply by seeing who sells a significant number of recently graded, extremely high grade (9's and 10's), low population cards from 1979 and earlier. And by 'significant number' I don't mean 1000's a month- I mean a few dozen a month, and maybe even less.
<< <i>
<< <i>First card I checked was 75 Brett
Last auction got $666
Last BIN took a best offer of $505
Edited to say checking VCP on sales of high dollar, low pop, star or rookie cards, it's really telling how few sellers even use BIN. Vast majority of these cards have been sold using auctions. Not unusual to see only one of the last 20 sales BIN. >>
This isn't a point that I'm especially keen on debating, since I know that nobody's mind is going to change. But I will add the following:
1) There is a difference between 'mean' price and 'last' price. Also, the $505 had a crappy scan from an infrequent seller, while the $666 was sold by Steve Hart. Obviously all debates of this type have to include the qualifier that 'all other factors be equal', which clearly isn't the case in the example you've cited.
2) Just about every law of market dynamics would suggest that BINs will, on average, outsell auctions. Before someone puts in a proxy for 'X+1', they should check the BIN's to see if the same card is available for 'X'. While not everyone will do this, enough people will such that the auction price should not, over an appreciable sample size, exceed the BIN price.
3) There's a reason why the people who do this for a living deal almost exclusively in BIN's, and it's because (as I've stated in earlier threads) for someone to profit in the sports card resale industry they must sell for > than market value, because the market value is set in part by sellers whose participation in the market is not driven by a need to realize profit. Since auctions should, in theory, hammer at somewhere close to market value, selling through auctions makes little sense to sellers who ARE driven by a profit motive.
Card doctors will sell through auctions because they're frequently selling low pops, and for cards with no established market value auctions will generally be as profitable as BINs, since the guy who's buying the card will at least have the consolation of knowing that there was another fool willing to pay almost as much as the high bidder. In fact, I would go even farther and submit that you can get a very, very good idea of whose doing after-market alterations on their pre-1979 cards simply by seeing who sells a significant number of recently graded, extremely high grade (9's and 10's), low population cards from 1979 and earlier. And by 'significant number' I don't mean 1000's a month- I mean a few dozen a month, and maybe even less. >>
I agree those two auctions probably weren't equal. Still, over the last two years, every single card that I checked that has any sort of value pre-1979 has been mostly sold on auction, by many different types of sellers big and small, it looks like. And on almost every card I checked, the highest recorded price was one that sold on auction.
"...Still, over the last two years, every single card that I checked that has any sort of value pre-1979 has been mostly sold on auction, by many different types of sellers big and small, it looks like. And on almost every card I checked, the highest recorded price was one that sold on auction...."
//////////////////////////////////////////////
Has VCP always included BIN and store prices?
<< <i>"...Still, over the last two years, every single card that I checked that has any sort of value pre-1979 has been mostly sold on auction, by many different types of sellers big and small, it looks like. And on almost every card I checked, the highest recorded price was one that sold on auction...."
//////////////////////////////////////////////
Has VCP always included BIN and store prices? >>
+
no, they have been including BIN for I"d guess a year now. ebay stores were never included in VCP.
now that ebay stores have moved to core and VCP tracks BIN lisings we'll see VCP average go up on most cards.
<< <i>BOTH gangs have decided that MOST retail shoppers do NOT wanna play
the auction game >>
Exactly! They want to Buy IT Now because we are now in a Got to have it now world and auctions just dont satisfy that craving auctions do satisfy the craving for buyers looking to get it at the lowest price possible. thats why amazon got out of the AUCTON Game and with my experience selling on both EBAY and AMAZON the thing that seperates the 2 and in my opinion is putting AMAZON on top in the PROFIT game is that Ebay USERS come there to many things check prices (use a 24/7 price guide), BID, Watch, and BUY were as AMAZON users Go there to do Mainly One thing and that is BUY
www.everythingcollectibles.biz
<< <i>Morning,
And to those of you who want to still sell High priced items at Auction and start them at .99 cents I simply say THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!
You continue to feed my E-Bay side job. Last Four Hi Dollar items I have won are as follows:
1. Auction Started at .99 cents, did not sell at Resrve of $650-700...I was Hi Bidder at $598.00...Seller gives me second chance offer at $598...Bought it, put in E-Bay BIN at $1450.00...1 Hour later contacted, Sold off E-Bay..No Paypal $1300.00.
2. Auction started at .99 cents..(A Lot of Cards) Item 2 years ago retails about $400-500. I win for $101.00...Split up 5 items put in store at BIN..Have sold two in 2 weeks for $150.00 each.
3. Item starts at .99 cents..(A Large Lot of cards)...2 years ago Lot would bring $600-$800. I pick up for $162.50. Some will go to PSA, most in Store BIN at $10-$15 each...When all is said and done should bring $800-$1200.
4. Auction starts at .99 cents..(Large Lot Hi Grade Pre War Stuff 46 Cards)......Two years ago I saw similar lots go for $1000-$1500. I win for $227.00. Send 30 cards to PSA am into the Lot for about $400. Have sold 6 cards Store BIN, so far am up to $800 and when all is said and done should see about 3K.
So Once again Please Please Please continue to List your Hi Dollar items at Auction with that great .99 cent starting price!!!!!! >>
Exactly Neil!
I like how your getting at the prices these things brough 2 or 3 years ago THE ONLY REASONS there down at auction is NOT BECAUSE OF there WORTH OR VALUE TO PEOPLE it what i have been pointing out in this whole thread PEOPLE JUST DONT HAVE THE TIME TO SIT and wait for an auction to end to bid on it and economy BUT as you nicely point out THERE ARE PEOPLE WITH MONEY OUT THERE THAT are willing to spend it IF YOU PUT THE PRODUCT OUT THERE FOR THEM TO BUY
I do the same thing You and i dont just do Cards IM in all catagories of Collectibles Buy low at auction and Sell high at BIN alot of times ill buy low at auction and list it over on AMAZON an have it sold with in a week and like you have pointed it MAXAMIZE the profit just post it up and let it fly
I think a lot of People who are for auctions that have comment on this topic are looking to make a QUICK buck/sale (with in a week or less) and move there inventory and not looking to MAXing there Profit and hang on to there items for a bit to do that.
and again there are collectors/buyers that dont COME ONLINE EVERY DAY even EVeryweek or month sometimes the check online every few months and thoese are the ones that USUALLY have the money and are willing to spend it
so yes same here.. everyone that uses auctions at .99 please do so We BIN Sellers Use your Listings WISELY i have to say i get about 75% of my inventory from EBAY AUCTIONS
just to show people how BINS heavly out do AUCTIONS
<< <i>4. Auction starts at .99 cents..(Large Lot Hi Grade Pre War Stuff 46 Cards)......Two years ago I saw similar lots go for $1000-$1500. I win for $227.00. Send 30 cards to PSA am into the Lot for about $400. Have sold 6 cards Store BIN, so far am up to $800 and when all is said and done should see about 3K.
>>
you paid about $5 per card, you have already sold 6 cards at STORE BIN for $800 so you total profit after your initial $5 investment is $128 PER CARD!! now i HIGHLY DOUBT the person that auction that lot MADE A PROFIT ANYWHERE NEAR THAT
www.everythingcollectibles.biz
<< <i>
<< <i>BOTH gangs have decided that MOST retail shoppers do NOT wanna play
the auction game >>
Exactly! They want to Buy IT Now because we are now in a Got to have it now world and auctions just dont satisfy that craving auctions do satisfy the craving for buyers looking to get it at the lowest price possible. thats why amazon got out of the AUCTON Game and with my experience selling on both EBAY and AMAZON the thing that seperates the 2 and in my opinion is putting AMAZON on top in the PROFIT game is that Ebay USERS come there to many things check prices (use a 24/7 price guide), BID, Watch, and BUY were as AMAZON users Go there to do Mainly One thing and that is BUY >>
Take a breath and try some punctuation . . .
BTW, seems you've lost a lot of posts for violating the rules. Can't say I didn't warn ya!
<< <i>Take a breath and try some punctuation . . .
BTW, seems you've lost a lot of posts for violating the rules. Can't say I didn't warn ya! >>
Oh i didnt know we were in school professor? BTW i asked the Mods To delet them so i can condence them in one thread BUT THANKS FOR NOTICING
www.everythingcollectibles.biz
<< <i>
<< <i>Take a breath and try some punctuation . . .
BTW, seems you've lost a lot of posts for violating the rules. Can't say I didn't warn ya! >>
Oh i didnt know we were in school professor? BTW i asked the Mods To delet them so i can condence them in one thread BUT THANKS FOR NOTICING >>
Yawn . . .
<< <i>Resellers and many collectors will always prefer buying via auction listings.
While those groups are TINY, compared to the retail-buyer population, there
is NO reason to think that EBAY will abandon the auction format; it will become
less and less relevant to the seller-population, but the format will likely ALWAYS
be in the mix.
>>
And thats why Ebay is now giving away 100 auctions per month to every ebay user as long as its under .99 and there not doing this because they love us there doing it to PAD there stats just think if they werent giving away these 100 auctions a month to each ebay user those #'s storm888 put up would be WAY DOWN! they need to show there STOCK People that the auctions are still there they need to show them that WHAT MADE EBAY its name is still alive and well!! and ebay can keep doing that with free auctions at .99 or less there helping me out a ton with inventory and from responces on here i would say the same thing for other sellers
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<< <i>What do you do if you have a lot of one card, which generally sells for 35-50 for 8s and 70-120 for 9s – do you dump ‘em at .99 starting auctions, or put ‘em at BINs until you have sold the 30+ that you have? Would you hold onto some and wait for ineterst to pick up (Gretzky stickers)? >>
again it all depends on how fast you want to move your inventory and how much you want to PROFIT on it. when you start selling you have to have an idea of what kind of profit you want to make on your items say 25% of your initial investment, 50% of your initial investment?? (for fast sales) i was told when i first start selling that if your making 100% of your initial investment your doing good so thats what i stick to. when you say "generally sells" your talking closed auctions? if so i would put one at BIN for $100 even if its an 8 add best offer and set that at to maybe $70-75 for your threshold (lost you will accept) im sure someone would come along and it the BIN
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